What hp can I push
What numbers can I push with this mod list i have has the car a few weeks and I love it new to the no piston life and not going back :evilgrin:https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78680a943.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bd11afbd77.jpg |
The engine should be in the 400hp range. The suspension will hold that car back from reaching its potential.
Is that a list of what is on the car or what you plan to purchase? Just checking to make sure you know this since you are new, but with the OMP removed you must add oil to the fuel or the engine will burn up. |
You forgot Toilet paper on that list..lol!
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It's what's already in the car what would I have to do to get it to 450 wheel?
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I knew I forgot the toilet paper and yes I premix
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Are these 'carb jets" in the eshaft ("crank") something new? I've never heard of doing that. Is there some real or theoretical advantage on changing them out?
And I recommend you stop thinking in terms of numbers. Don't set a number goal, set a fun, reliable car goal. |
I'm not to sure on the car jets the previous owner had the car built and I would love to keep my car as reliable as it is now I was just trying to get a ball park on what the car is capable of pushing as is or with a slightly bigger turbo and injectors?
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Ok so the carb jet mod allows oil to be injected in the rotor cooling jackets at all time instead of just above 2500rpm
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12172083)
Are these 'carb jets" in the eshaft ("crank") something new?
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12172083)
And I recommend you stop thinking in terms of numbers. Don't set a number goal, set a fun, reliable car goal.
Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172085)
pushing as is or with a slightly bigger turbo and injectors?
Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172062)
It's what's already in the car what would I have to do to get it to 450 wheel?
You will need to have a good rotary engine mechanic modify the engine to get it much over 450hp at the flywheel. I wouldn't recommend this unless it is absolutely necessary because it isn't going to be cheap. Also, many of the high-hp modifications would include things like more boost, lower-compression rotors, and larger porting, which may increase the peak hp but will reduce the low-end torque making the car more sluggish when driving in daily traffic or autocross events. This website link has a good generic breakdown of hp and mods, but it is a little outdated so be sure to check with this forum prior to following the guidance. FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power Your biggest problem right now is those crappy stock springs. You could have a 3,000 hp engine, but it would do you no good if the car does nothing but slip and slide all over the road, especially when trying to take a turn. In fact, your car is rather dangerous the way it is right now because it probably has over twice the power that the stock suspension was designed to handle. Also, there is no mention of any safety equipment. The OEM brake system on these cars is pretty good, so a nice set of performance street pads is all you really need for street driving and autocross events. If you still have contact with the previous owner, I recommend asking: - What kind of brake pads are on the car? - When were the oil filter pedestal o-rings last replaced? - When were the differential clutch plates last replaced? - How many miles are on the driveshaft? - When were the fluids last changed? (engine oil, transmission, differential, brake fluid) - Is there synthetic oil in the transmission and differential? - Exactly which type of ACT clutch and pressure plate is in the car? - What kind of flywheel? - Can he give you a back-up copy of the Haltech map being used, or show you how to make a copy? (It will cost you about $1,500 to have somebody retune the engine if something bad happens to the current map) |
Do not perform the carburetor jet mod to the eccentric oil jets unless you are building a race engine that won't see under 4000 RPM.
For a street engine not only is it unnecessary, but it lowers your oil pressure at idle to about 8 - 10 PSI. The mod increases cooling oil flow to the rotors which only needs to be done when the engine is operated at high RPM under high load for extended periods. You should also upgrade to a water cooled turbo. That way you don't have to deal with silliness of turbo timers, cool down idle periods, etc. |
I do daily it on nice days and i would lije to have a car thats good in autox and strip. The brake pads are after market. The trans fluid was changed when the motor was built. The oil filter o rings was changed during motor rebuild the rear diff was changed 2k ago the gab shocks are 2 years old. What shocks do you guys recommend? It's a act street/strip. Idk what the fly wheel is. Yeah first and second are a little squirrelly
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Sgtblue Are these 'carb jets" in the eshaft ("crank") something new? I've never heard of doing that. Is there some real or theoretical advantage on changing them out? Mazda Motorsports sells direct screw-in replacement oil jets that are the same thing as stock jets with check balls/springs removed and carb jets added. Aaron Cake Do not perform the carburetor jet mod to the eccentric oil jets unless you are building a race engine that won't see under 4000 RPM. For a street engine not only is it unnecessary, but it lowers your oil pressure at idle to about 8 - 10 PSI. Can you think of any downside besides slower warm up/emissions to having the rotor oil jets? You don't need any more oil pressure at idle, there is comparatively little load on the bearings. I believe the OP said he has all this stuff installed from the previous owner. I say, no problem- no need to rebuild the engine due to rotor oil jet mod. I did the rotor oil jet mod along with all the other wet sump mods so my oil pressure was more like 15-20psi at idle and the bearings remain in great shape 40,000miles, 15 years and many engine builds later. I actually originally did the mod for the lower oil pressure at idle because my turbos always smoked at idle with the higher than stock idle oil pressure from the other oil system mods. Coleton I'm not to sure on the car jets the previous owner had the car built and I would love to keep my car as reliable as it is now I was just trying to get a ball park on what the car is capable of pushing as is or with a slightly bigger turbo and injectors? It looks like a good mod list from the previous owner if everything is working well and installed correctly. You don't have the model of fuel pump listed as far as I can see- ie, Walbro makes several pumps- this is a critical component, so you need to check that out/get a good pump in there before trying to make some power. Walbro 255lph high pressure isn't really great if you are trying to push the limits of the turbo as you imply asking how much the set-up is good for. I had to switch to the tried and proven Bosch '044. There are other cheaper alternatives now that are as good (and lots of knock offs of all pumps that are worse- buy from a well established/proven dealer). Once you get the fuel pump sorted the set-up should be good for about the limit of the turbo, but an easy nice upgrade would be to ditch the old 1600cc injectors for ID2000s (and re-tune) for more headroom on the injectors, a better transition into 2ndaries than the 1600s and a pretty easy/safe tune change. Go to a good tuner and he will look over the set-up carefully and decide if you are ready to tune it and how hard he wants to push it. Turbo should be good for 450+ rwhp, but you will have to crank the boost up. Water meth can cover you to ~18psi, but if you want to be safe run unleaded race gas as well. The S4 based engine will crack the rear dowel with any little/slight detonation at this power level. They are not suitable for a turbo engine, but it took Mazda a couple years to figure that out. Boost at your own risk. If you keep hp below 300rwhp it will last longer, but it sounds like you don't want to do that, so prepare yourself for it to crack (start shopping for good S5 TII front and rear side housings). |
I was just trying to get a ball park on what the car is capable of pushing as is or with a slightly bigger turbo and injectors?
:scratch: I mean really? So you want to know what the limit of flow of the S4 TII ports are basically? Because you don't quantify "a little larger turbo". Limit is probably around 600rwhp with just bigger turbo, more injectors/pump and race gas. You would be stupid to try to push this weak S4 TII motor to that limit, but I mean drag racers do stupid shit like that all the time so... |
I'm not trying to push anything over 475 ever in this car if I do I would go ls I was asking what I could push cuz I would like to be at 400-450 wheel on one tune and 350 on a second street tune. I could imagine that 600 wheel hp would be quite a hand full in a 2900 lbs street car with small tires in the back. I have 275 rears right now and I rub on big dips
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Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172185)
I would like to be at 400-450 wheel on one tune and 350 on a second street tune.
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
No, you just get one tune and adjust the power with the gas pedal. The only exception to this is if you want a separate tune for race fuel or with/without ADI.
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Well if you had different tunes on a computer couldn't you load them on and have a number of tunes on hand for different fuel or driving conditions. See I'm a diesel guy I have 18 tunes on hand for my 6.4 powerstroke just on my tuner.
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Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172255)
Well if you had different tunes on a computer couldn't you load them on and have a number of tunes on hand for different fuel or driving conditions. See I'm a diesel guy I have 18 tunes on hand for my 6.4 powerstroke just on my tuner.
Why in the holy hell would you need 18 tunes for an engine? :scratch: |
Ok now I understand thanks for explaining that. They have that many tunes for different power levels with the dpf on and off they go up in 25hp increments and you have to include tow tunes
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 12172107)
No, that mod has been around for decades, and it is completely legitimate for racing engines.
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
(Post 12172166)
[I]
Mazda Motorsports sells direct screw-in replacement oil jets that are the same thing as stock jets with check balls/springs removed and carb jets added. OP...even though I'm an old fart I run into guys all the time who only want to talk hp power numbers. These are the guys who have a car that runs a month and then it sits on jackstands for another 6 months because they blew it up or something else in the drivetrain let go. Like the "slow" kid who keeps getting burned after touching the stove to see if it's still hot. While most of us snicker behind their backs, they keep adding performance mods in search of hp numbers that will impress the others at the BK parking lot. Which keeps breaking shit, which keeps them rebuilding. And the dirty little secret is (as has been explained above) their car isn't that fast even when it's running. It looks like you have a pretty nice car. Don't be THAT guy. |
Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172124)
I do daily it on nice days and i would lije to have a car thats good in autox and strip. The brake pads are after market. The trans fluid was changed when the motor was built. The oil filter o rings was changed during motor rebuild the rear diff was changed 2k ago the gab shocks are 2 years old. What shocks do you guys recommend? It's a act street/strip. Idk what the fly wheel is. Yeah first and second are a little squirrelly
Race Car Tech - RX7Club.com I'm not a drag racer, so this is for autocross and road racing: The GAB shocks are fine for spirited driving such as autocross, but there is no way the stock springs are still good at this age. You can replace them with a set of Racing Beat springs for mild use, or if you want to get the full potential out of your car for road racing then you would want to replace the entire setup with a good coilover system, such as Eibach ERS springs with good dampers (Koni, Bilstein, and JRZ are the most popular), camber/caster plates, and other aftermarket suspension components depending on the type of racing that you choose. You should also check to see if the mounts and bushings are old and crusty, as this will not only cause stability problems but it will also damage your suspension components. Once again, check the Race Car Tech subforum before you buy anything. You may want to consider joining the Mazda Motorsports Team Support Program. It is totally free, and allows you to get good pricing on parts. Unlike 99% of the other so-called sponsorship programs on the internet, this one is not a scam. https://www.mazdamotorsports.com
Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172296)
They have that many tunes for different power levels with the dpf on and off they go up in 25hp increments and you have to include tow tunes
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 12172112)
For a street engine not only is it unnecessary, but it lowers your oil pressure at idle to about 8 - 10 PSI.
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12172301)
It looks like you have a pretty nice car.
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I was only thinking of doing bigger secondaries and new bb turbo the motor I want to keep it as is I was thinking of getting new shocks or coil overs if I find some at the right price
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And the tunes being rigged I was stating how they are on my diesel they are by spartan diesel a very well know tuning company for diesels
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Originally Posted by Coleton
(Post 12172390)
And the tunes being rigged I was stating how they are on my diesel they are by spartan diesel a very well know tuning company for diesels
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Look up how diesel tuning works and spartan diesel. it's way different then how you tune a gas motor there is more things to change for different results
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