I already rebuild my engine and tighten the tension bolts to required torque 23 - 29 ft.lbf as
Mazda manual. Is that enough or need more? They are seem still loose! I am not sure if the turbo pressure will not blow off the water jet seals. Please your support guys. Thanks

 

Torque to factory specs, in three stages. I typically do 10 LBs (then go back and snug up all the ones which loosened up), then 20 LBs, then 30 LBs.

If there is boost presure anywhere near the tension bolt water seals, then something is seriously wrong!

 

Thanks for reply Aaron

 

Thanks for reply Aaron

 

Thanks Rx7club and all members. This is the first run after rebuild. See the attached video.

 

Is that the normal sound? Sounds a bit off

 

Yes, it's normal sound as long it is bridge port. and you can see there's a sound reducer in the muffler

 

Just out of curiosity, how long did it take for you to complete the rebuild?

 

16 hrs as long as all parts are cleaned and ready. The longest time we worked on rotors. By the way, it's the first time for me and my brother to rebuild a rotary engine and maybe we are the first in Saudi Arabia. I know that most people in gulf countries replaced thier engines with JDM.

 

Cool. Sounds pretty mean!

 

Congratulations. Sounds like a nice solid idle given the porting.

 

Sounds good for sure good job! I just ported, polished and rebuilt my first Rotary Engine as well, 94 REW Engine, and Aaron Cake's videos helped a lot The silencer cap on the muffler gives it a different pitch of sound I think but I like it, I bet it still screams under Wide Open Throttle and high RPMs... Just out of curiosity, did you hand tighten the tension bolts with a wrench before you torqued them on hard to seat the coolant seals in ? And did you torque in sequences from 10, to 20 then to 29-30 or did you torque them directly to 29-30 in just one sequence ?

 

The service manual recommends 3 stages, hence the 10, 20 and final 30. Of course once everything is snugged down you need to go over the first 6 or so bolts you tightened to 10 because they will have loosened up as everything compresses.

Going directly to 30 LBs will most certainly bring the rear iron down unevenly. To what consequence? Hard to say. But I'd bet that you'll be stressing the plate far more than following the 3 stage torque. Multiple stages is standard fare for anything critical or large like cylinder heads, manifolds, etc.

I generally hand tighten with a wrench just until I start to feel tension. This might be repeated a few times as the first few will loosen up. Then once all snug, grab the torque wrench and begin.

 

Since this is a resurrection thread, I liked re-torqueing...or maybe better put, re-checking torque on the tension bolts if they're ever exposed later. Like when I installed a lightened flywheel early last year, I went through and re-torqued all the tension bolts. First time since being rebuilt in winter 2007-2008. I'll never be certain it did any good, but then it was free, took all of 5 minutes and didn't hurt anything either.

 

My questions were for Soolar by the way Aaron, I wanted to know if he did it that way or not.. xD

 

^He hasn't logged on to the forum for almost a year.

 

I also re torque my tension bolts every time the transmission comes out for new clutch or anything else. And yes, hand wrench tight before going to the three stage torque method.