Leaked Fluid
Hey guys bought a battery and started up my FD3S after its been sitting for about 2 years. It leaked some fluid, not sure if it's transmission or power steering. Can anyone help me identify?
Well it would help for a better reference but it appears to be from the front passenger (right) side of the engine. It also looks to have a reddish hue/color. If your car is an auto, then my guess is an auto-trans cooler line, coupler or the cooler itself...all of which is in that area. PS is on the other side (left) of the engine.
Not sure what’s going on with the radiator and fans and lack of a belly-pan...guessing it’s due to the intercooler location.
Not sure what’s going on with the radiator and fans and lack of a belly-pan...guessing it’s due to the intercooler location.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Dec 4, 2017 at 07:46 AM.
Then I think a jack, jack stands, flashlight and a towel or rag are in your future.
Hoping that IS PS fluid and not oil. Other than oil cooler line (if dual oil cooler equipped) the things that come to mind in that area is the turbo, turbo supply and return lines, the oil pan, front cover, OMP and OMP lines.
Hoping that IS PS fluid and not oil. Other than oil cooler line (if dual oil cooler equipped) the things that come to mind in that area is the turbo, turbo supply and return lines, the oil pan, front cover, OMP and OMP lines.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Dec 4, 2017 at 12:17 PM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
put a sheet of cardboard under the car between the front wheels..
If and when it leaks it will give you a good idea of where it is leaking.
If and when it leaks it will give you a good idea of where it is leaking.
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I can try to do that. My mechanic friend said to try a slight taste test to see if it's sweet or not, not sure if I want to try it.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
They make the fluids in different colors to easily establish what is leaking..Oil is brown/black,antifreeze is green..Trans fluid is Red..and gear oil just stinks like hell so that is definitely easy to tell what it is.
Hey,go ahead and taste some oil if ya want but antifreeze will kill you.
Hey,go ahead and taste some oil if ya want but antifreeze will kill you.
Yeah, I didn't really have any intention of trying the fluid. I started it up again and was able to get a video. Couldn't really pin point the source but it appeared it might be coming from the power steering line (I think). Didn't see a drop of the fluid level in the p/s tank though.
Here's a video.
Here's a video.
I have a fairly good idea of which hose it is. I'll be checking it out tomorrow again and trying to pull it to take to the Mazda dealer to try and get a quote for a replacement and buy one from them if it's cheap enough.
If you have a RHD , you won't be able to find the hose that connect the rack to the snake shape tube .
As a matter effect , nothing PS related because the system is different in RHD. (Except the pump).
As a matter effect , nothing PS related because the system is different in RHD. (Except the pump).
Originally Posted by 7krayziboi
If you have a RHD , you won't be able to find the hose that connect the rack to the snake shape tube .
As a matter effect , nothing PS related because the system is different in RHD. (Except the pump).
As a matter effect , nothing PS related because the system is different in RHD. (Except the pump).
I was able to pull the hose about 5 hours ago. Just got back ordering a new one from the dealer. The hose was indeed 32-683A. It dry rotted at the bend. New hose and two clamps only cost me about $21. Gotta go back on Tuesday to pick up the parts.
Air intake system smoke test
Compression test
Fuel pressure check
Ask the shop to "run codes" (maybe not applicable if running an after market "ecu".)
Collectively those tests should run about $200.
They will give you a pretty good idea of what else needs attention.
Compression test
Fuel pressure check
Ask the shop to "run codes" (maybe not applicable if running an after market "ecu".)
Collectively those tests should run about $200.
They will give you a pretty good idea of what else needs attention.









