Garage Find Start Up
 

Hello,

Car is a 1987 GXL. Manual Trans, No ABS. The car has been sitting for the better part of 15 years, with a brief window of actually running sometime around 2008 or so. Engine turns by hand. Brakes function, but nasty fluid. Clutch works and trans shifts.

As soon as I get garage space, it will come in side and the work will start.

Recommendations on a start up procedure are appreciated.

Not first rotary, DD is an 04 RX8 with "some" enhancements.. DD before that was one as well, a petite woman drove her Camry through the back of that car.

Thanks,

Is there a thread like this:

Congratulations, you got an 8. - RX8Club.com

in 7-club?

hmm..usually it is a guy that likes driving into the rear..lol!..hahha!..(had to.!..If you think anything into that..shame on you!)
Besides the vast amount of info readily available for you to pick and choose you can type this in and look this site.
Aaron's Homepage.
you will find this page: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/unstore.htm

Thanks, getting used to site organization. Hope to give it a shot in a few weeks.

If the engine spins freely pull the spark plugs and turn it over a few times and listen for the "puffs" of air. You should get three good puffs from each rotor. If not, you've got a bad seal somewhere so don't even bother moving forward. If it sounds good...

New fluids: oil, brake/clutch, coolant, GAS (drain the tank!)
New filters: air, fuel, oil
New spark plugs and wires
New battery

Pull the ignition fuse and try to crank the engine with the starter to build fuel and oil pressure. Put the throttle pedal to the floor to prevent flooding. If all goes well plug the ignition fuse back in and see if it'll start. If not, check for spark.

Thanks,

I appreciate it.

Being its a 87 i do NOT recommend putting the pedal to the floor, the computer will read that as WOT and push WOT fuel. I'd pull the EGI fuse and crank it over to build oil pressure, then reinstall the fuse and turn the key on/off a couple times to build fuel pressure

Also, when you have the plugs out to listen to the puffs, if they sound like good puffs, put oil into each housing and spin it over b hand, it will help lubricate the internals, and bump up compression to aid in starting

Thanks,

I was either going to squirt some pre-mix or MMO in to make things all nice and wet. Should also kill off most of the bugs in the area when she starts.

fixed lol

I recently found one like this. One thing I did was to look at the oil metering pump and the lines to the oil injectors. The lines on my car were broken and extremely brittle. I now premix and please check your fuel tank. The gas in mine was yellow. The Arron Cake web site was a lot of help and so was this site.

Just to thank all of you..

She starts, I used a start up process referenced here. I can share that 2 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each housing makes a crap load of smoke and gives you a great way to smoke test an exhaust. I have a cat leak.

Did not rev past 2,800 RPM. Searched here, found a reference to secondary fuel injectors as well as how to get that stupid connector off. All is well. She runs, she revs, she needs a tag.

Also need cleaned, polished, brakes, wax, A/C, and a fair list, but those are secondary.

Thanks all. This engine is way different than my RX8. Takes me old school. 3 barrel intake is a hoot every time I look at it.

Again, thanks.

Update,

Logicon seems to be fixed. All the motors work. The major failures were the fan amplifier and EVERY current limiting resistor. A 10 pack of 10 Ohm, 1 watt, resistors solved most of it. The other failure was a diode. And, 2 of the circuit board lans lifted off the board.

Repairing interior plastic at this time. Then re-assemble, then off to the cat leak.

Awesome that the thing runs after all those years sitting, do you plan to rebuild the whole thing?

@ TT,

That is the plan. Still working through a system at a time. The whole "fix the AC vents" part was a bit more involved than expected. But, she does run and drive.

try getting 5 years of mouse piss out of a Vert.,..
you drive it and smell it in the open air!..top down..WThell???...lol!

Glad to hear you got it running. I got a 10ae that has been sitting the same amount of time coming in next month.

So you didn't have to change the fuel pump, lines or injectors?

I drained the tank and flushed the line up to the fuel filter. Supposedly it ran for a bit in 2009 ish, and had the fuel filter replaced. It looked good so I left it. Other than that I followed the Arron Cake process, the site is linked above, and took it easy. Mainly getting lube in the housing, then spin it without starting to circulate oil and build pressure (saw that one Wheeler Dealer ;) ).

I had a bad injector connection that stopped be for a bit, but the solution was here in the forum.

I drove it a bit, then when after that AC. That opened a huge can of worms.

Update:

If you ever pull the defroster vent cover, never touch the plastic inserts. If you look at them wrong, the break. If you drop a piece, it shatters, even handling them will break them. If you glue them back together, just touching the joint with sandpaper will break them someplace else.

Just sharing...

Update.

Dropped a bolt, looking for it got the car in the air, which made the exhaust visible, which led to the next project. Exhaust leak is in the cat. Pulled it all off, smoke test, and the cat leaks in 4 places. All at the corner welds. Looks like a welding project. Ordering gaskets while at it.

Interior cleaned up wonderfully. Looks brand new. Dash back together. All interior broken screw holes repaired with a 3d printed insert. Worked way better than expected.

Working through grounds. Kind of disappointed at what I am finding. The one on the back of the engine went to a spade terminal on the firewall. All connectors cleaned, star washers and conductive grease added. still working through the engine bay. This made a big difference on the 8 and looks completely stock.

I wonder why the EGR vacuum line was disconnected.....

Ordering fuel injector seals. I think they could use a good service. A buddy built a pretty cool system.

Current Goal is still to get her back running as a survivor, with as many original parts as possible. Then see what is next. Will be 3D printing the damper bushings in the future. The adjusters still work. I like this car.

what sort of printed insert? i have a black dash i want to put in but just about every tab is broken from moving it around the shop.

Basically it is a cylinder, with a hole for a screw all the way through. One end is solid, to accept the screw. The other end is a mesh. The mesh is easy to trim and holds glue very well. I used 2 part epoxy to glue them in. Instant new hole.

Where are you in Central Florida. I can print a few and drop them by or put them in the mail.

i live in lake wales, but i have a 3d printer already if you wanted to share the file that'd probably be easier.

Trying here.

rename from zip to stl

I printed mine in abs, kind of dry, to make sure there were lots of grooves for glue. Trim the legs to whatever they need to be, then epoxy it in. The shapes are slightly different depending on what they have to be close to.

Let me know how it goes.

seems to be corrupted, won't allow me to open the zip and acts as an empty folder.

Just rename it .STL. Zip was on of the extensions it would accept.