Check engine light...code 27...OMP
 

my check engine light is on...i jumped it to read the code and it repeats 27 which is the omp..what should i do???...i've heard that blockin it off will hv me changin oil like every 1000miles(dnt kno if thats true)...should i just change it out?

as soon as the check engine light comes on i shut the car off and turn it back on so it doesnt go into limp mode when im driving.

No, you can't just block it off. No signal or an incorrect signal from the MOP leads to limp mode.

You either replace the pump, or have the ECU chipped to disable it (http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5NA). If disabled, you MUST pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. This change your oil every 1000 miles thing you heard is flat out wrong.

That worked for me.

Changing oil every 10 miles wouldn't have an effect if the OMP wouldn't be injecting oil into the rotors. So just like RotaryRocket88 said, either change the OMP or chip your ecu and run premix

thanks...it's my first rx7 so yea...learning as i go...anyway...where can i find a new mop?...been lookin all over and no luck...

Better off just going to premix.

^Not necessarily.
Removing the OMP and just running pre-mix has advantages, but it also requires you to jack with carrying 2-cycle in your car. And you absolutely must add the appropriate amount with every gas stop. Forgetting or running out of 2 cycle isn't an option.
Replacing the OMP, running both the OMP and pre-mix (preferrably with AI), or running an adaptor for the OMP to source 2-cycle are other options. It really depends on the person and car.

i've read that the mop goin bad can mess up the ecu?....is this true?...

everythin said in this post hv been great ways to go about this problem...i was thinking of changing the mop out and gettin a adapter and a reserve tank for the pre mix...but that would mean earlier oil changes rite?...lol...im just lost...i still cant find a place to get another mop...

No, oil change intervals would be unaffected. If anything you could probably lengthen them a little if your OMP is sourcing pre-mix from a tank rather than engine oil.

And a bad OMP shouldn't hurt the ECU at all. If anything, it's the other way around.

Not sure what the rules are for new members. If you haven't already, look for a replacement from a trusted seller with good feedback here on the forum in the "PARTS FOR SALE" section.

For S5 RX7s, it's not uncommon for a failed MOP to fry a section of the ECU. It's a pretty well known problem, and just another reason the S4 mechanical MOP is so much better.

Then I'm sorry for the mis-info. I forgot we were talking about S5. I actually suspect the ECU of frying two OMPs (sensors) on my S6...but that's another story.

In any event, I don't like yanking parts off a car JUST because they break or wear-out. Make sure your improving things and/or replace it properly. Otherwise it seems like laziness.

It seems if one of the parts of the system fails (ECU, wiring or MOP), the rest are liable to go with it. Tempermental things.

i get u...so this does mean that i will need to get another mop and ecu...and then get a adpater for the mop and hook it a tank for the premix...does anyone have this kind of set-up?

Buy another ecu. Send it to RTek for RTek 1.0. Premix gas. Install ECU. Leave MOP in place. Forget about it. But don't forget to premix your gas.

Problem solved. At least that is what worked for me.

You just pour the premix into the gas tank. 1oz TCWIII( 2 stroke oil) to 1gal of gas.

If the electric MOP is disabled, you either premix or use an adapter like this one: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm.

i actually searched this up and was gonna order one...but i would like to see if anyone else has a set up like that...i've read bout buyin the adapter n makin a reservoir for the premix and connecting it to the adapter...

doing a set up like this i wont hv to replace the mop rite?...

more details on how the adapter works will be helpfull...thanks for all the help guys

I have a 88 ecu hooked up to my 1990 engine jusy because my omp is blocked off and with the 88 ecu it doesnt go into limp mode no chip no nothing just disconnected

does anyone hv the adapter system set-up?
and is it okay to drive the car in this situation

also will it be fine to just replace the mop?

What do you mean "how does the adapter work? It allows the OMP to source 2 cycle oil instead of oil from the engine. That's it. You'll have to find a place for a reservoir tank for the 2 cycle and a line going from the tank to the adapter. The tank must be higher than the OMP.
I have a friend who runs one of these on a frequently tracked FD and he's had no issues that I'm aware of. The biggest issue, at least on a FD, is packaging....finding a place for the tank etc. The only other issue is making damn sure you keep oil in the tank and don't let it run dry.
Can you just replace the MOP? Absolutely. In fact, that's what I personally would recommend in your situation. The car is new to you, just get a good use MOP/OMP from a trusted seller in the parts for sale section and R & R it.

thanks for all the help guys...i will keep ya'll posted on how it turns out

can someone post detailed instructions on how to take out n install the metering oil pump?
thanks

i got a omp with lines. but now im hvin a difficult time gettin to the lines. should i just use the omp i got wit my old lines?

I didn't initially post this hoping someone had a thread dealing specifically with the S5 MOP. Since this is for a S6 I don't know how much this will help, but FWIW.... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=OMP
Have you checked the FSM for any specific instructions?
If they're not leaking, yes...I'd just leave them in place. I WOULD replace the copper crush washers at the OMP end of the lines and if the S5 OMP has an 'O' ring like the S6 version, I'd replace that as well. Neither will cost much.

Stainless lines are available for the S6 (and I assume for the S5) which are essentially indestructible. If you search I believe there's also a thread on making your own replacements for next to free. If you're ever in to the motor deep enough to remove alot of the long-block and the lines are accessible, then I'd recommend replacing the stock lines with either version.