Can someone help interpret these flashes into codes please?


New motor build. Still has stock twins. Ran great for about 3 weeks. Still runs good but backfires about 4K rpm. All actuators tested good, but the turbo actuator doesn't more with the car running. Bypass the turbo control solenoid and the actuator moves with the car running. Replaced the turbo control solenoid. Same results. My next guess would be stuck in limp mode or the boost sensor. I am hoping the codes will narrow it down.
Thank you for the help!

 

I’m still having trouble figuring codes out. I think maybe the Turbo Control Solenoid 1 may be acting up. The code looks like a 63 but maybe I am reading it wrong.

 

Is your coil harness connected correctly? Are your plugs lead connected to the cols correctly?

The position of the coils changed from late 1995 on.

If you use the USDM FSM as a guide you may have things hooked up incorrectly.

 

Yes. Ran great for about 3 weeks and then we started having this issue. Thanks.

 

Yes. But has anyone touched the plugs or harness in those three months? Asking a garage to do a simple plug change could result in them hooking up the leads wrong, especially if they bring up the USDM FSM from the internet and use it as a guide (this happened to me).

Having the plugs hooked up in the wrong order may only manifest itself at higher rev (say over 4000 rpm) I drove around for six months with my car mimicking 'limp mode", trying all sorts of things to cure "limp mode", before a mechanic took it over 6000 rpm and blew a corner seal out.

We only discovered the plugs were hooked up wrong at the rebuild shop.

Running codes may give you an answer to your limp mode. But will not identify any vacuum/air pressure line leaks.

Running a smoke test may help with that.

 

I’m the only one that has worked on it. I will double check them just to be sure. But it ran great for the first 3 weeks. Plenty of boost and no issues going over 4k. I can tell the turbo actuator is not opening, just can’t figure out why. Turbo Control 1 and 2 solenoids seem to be working. I can tell it is getting vacuum and it works when manually applying vacuum or pressure. Next is to test the solenoids under pressure and vacuum.

 

Sometimes the $.05 c-ring clip falls off where the actuator rod hooks onto the flap arm.

I would imagine it would be a hastle to vacuum check each solenoid, and you are likely to start breaking off nipples.

. Smoke test may be a short-cut.

You are on stock ecu?

 

I have no great confidence in reading codes but it looks like you have an "11" and a "44".

11 is "intake air temperature sensor".

"44" is........................"Turbo control solenoid".

Consult page F-24 of the 1994 USDM FSM.

 

Intake air thermosensor is one of the imputs the ECU wants to decide what to tell the injectors to do. I don't know if a fault would cause "limp mode" or not

 

Makes sense. Stock ECU. I can get the actuator to move if I bypass Turbo Control solenoid #2 with a straight tube. Make me think it has to be Turbo Control Solenoid #1 or stuck in limp for some reason.

 

OK. I have been at this for a bit now. I cannot seem to clear code 44. I have tried multiple turbo control solenoids for the #1 and #2 turbo control solenoid and can't get 44 to clear. I get everything else to clear, but 44 either doesn't clear or returns immediately before even starting the car.
Is there a way to test the signal to the turbo solenoids? I have run a volt meter to them and can see a very brief voltage tick when the ignition is turned on, which leads me to believe the wires are good, but not sure if there is a better what to test them to see if the stock ECU is seeing them or if I am getting a signal from the stock ECU. Maybe any issue with the ECU?

Thank you for any help that the group can provide!

 

You may be able to get a used stock ecu for a few hundred bucks, and try it out.

Check existing ecu for any "bent pins", especially the pins for whatever is throwing the code 44.

 

Here is one for sale in Japan. The auction is blocked for foreign buyers.

You can try Jesse Streeter jessestreeeter.com to bid on it for you. His fees are low and he will offer you shipping options.

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/a...n_DirectSearch

 

That auction posting has detailed pics of the ecu, which can be handy to review.

 

These are the pins I am referring to above. They can get damaged by repeated removal and replacement of the harness.

 

You can open up your ecu and inspect it for any obvious damage. Such as corrosion or popped capacitos.

 

I guess my question is, shouldn’t one of the wires going to the turbo control solenoid have a constant +12v? I thought the black/white wire would and then the green is ground that the ECU switches. Can someone tell me is that is correct?

if so, I should be able to test the black/white with a volt meter. Then test the Yellow/Blue for continuity back to the ECU.

 

Does anyone know on this one. I don't get +12v on the black/white wire at the turbo control solenoids. Shouldn't I as soon as the ignition is turned on?

 

All the other ones I see are selling for about C$500.

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/a...n_DirectSearch

 

I confirmed that I have +12v to the black/white wires now. Also have confirmed continuity of the yellow/blue wires back to the ECU. ECU seems to not be looking for the solenoids when the ignition is turned on. I have ordered another ECU. Hopefully that fixes the issue.