Ok so i got a FC that had been in storage since '07. I replaced the fuel pump and strainer, filter, plugs, plug wires, battery and starter. Replaced all fluids. I have good spark and fuel pressure looks great right after the filter. It still wont start. I did the de-flooding procedure by pulling the egi fuse and plugs and turned the engine over to clear raw gas. Cannot figure out what the problem is. What should I test and how?

 

pull the spark plugs (lowers) and check to see if they're covered in fuel.

CHECK ALL OF THE FUSES WITH A MULTI METER

if no fuel smell or visible fuel is on them spray some starting fluid (Or pour fuel, or hotwire an injector) in the intake, have someone crank it while doing this.

If it runs, you've got a problem where fuel is not making it to the combustion chambers. Try hotwiring the fuel pump or holding the MAF open to trick the fuel pump into working (more info on that in the FAQ's) and try cranking again.

If that doesn't work, check to make sure the injectors are getting power (should have power with the key on) and check to make sure the ecu is properly grounded.

If all of that checks out, and it still won't run you may have a bad ECU. I did.

 

see if the AFM is moving freely.
they are made up of that cast aluminum that like to corrode.So they will stick.

 

Thx guys ill try it today and get back to you on it. I just dont want to get rid of this car.

 

You can also poor a tablespoon or so of oil into the lower spark plug hole on each chamber to help build compression.

 

I fought for years to get this car. and finally out of the blue its towed to my house with the title. im so glad to have this car. just gotta get it running

 

I just recently went through the same issue with my FC. Just got it home and had to replace the fuel pump, strianer and filter. The old pump was rusted up along with the tank, so I had to pump the tank out as well. Tried and tried to get it to start the day i got it, but just kept flooding. Nothing would get it to run. I tries all the little tricks even. Just had to give it old fashioned time. Waites till the next morning, tried again. Same results at first. Cranked the timming out full advanced, tried a couple times and it stubbled a bit. Then turned the timming all the retarded, tried again, stubbled even more. Put the timeing back to center, then it started and ran. Still starts up after about 1.5-2 seconds on the key.

 

How do i change the timing?

 

By adjusting the crank shaft position sensor. It looks like a distributor, minus the cap and wires. Just has a 4wire pigtial coming out of it. You can losen the bolt in the grove and turn it clock wise or counter clock wise. You may want to mark where it was before you move it, but it could be off a bit there any how.

 

ok so i put some oil in the bottom plug holes and spun the engine by hand. gonna let it sit for the night and hopefully get this damn car running tommorrow. wish me luck

 

ok i tried to oil trick no luck. gonna try the starter in the intake

 

Have you verified that the timing is actually correct? It won't start if it is off by too much.

 

so it will run only on starting fluid. would it be the timing? ive never messed with timing before. gimme the crash course.

 

Post #2 in this link.

https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/timing-issues-13b-999857/

If runs on starting fluid then you need to verify if you're getting fuel. You can jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on there should be a sound coming from the fuel pump and you shouls also here the fuel running through the fuel lines as well. And if it starts w/fluid then chances are the timing is at least close enough.

 

When i jumper the fuel check connector i can hear the fuel prime thru the lines. but still no start.

 

It could be a number of things still related to fuel but your engine may be flooded or perhaps the primary injectors are clogged or not working properly (secondary injectors are not used for starting purposes). If your engine is flooded then you need to disengage the fuel pump to prevent it from adding more fuel. You can reach under the dash and to the right of the steering wheel and pull the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the pump. The relay is Black And Yellow and has five wires. Bottom row has two wires, solid Back far left position and a Brown wire far right position. There are also three wires on the top row, B/W, B/W, and a Blue wire. W/this relay disconnected use just a second or two of starter spray and start the car. If it turns over and eventually dies as it should try this one more time. After that then plug the relay back in and try to start the car in a normal fashion. And if the primary injectors are clogged then you'll have to remove them and have them professionally cleaned. Since the car has been idled for so long the notion that these injectors are clogged is not far fetched at all.

 

which ones are the primary injectors. the ones visible or the ones under the intake?

 

You don't want to know, but they are the hidden ones!!!!!!!!!!

And if the injector plugs are bad that could be a cause as well. You could check this by testing a couple of ECU pins. W/key to on pins 3E and 3C should have battery voltage. If they do then the primary injectors are connected properly.

 

ugh so i would have to remove the intake.... I take it 3e and c should have 12v

 

Yes, and that would be w/key to on.

 

Have you checked the crank angle sensor?

 

so its not even cranking?

 

Its cranking and firing when starter fluid is used. Havent had the time to check the cpu as satch suggested.

 

You mean the ECU.

 

Things to check:

Fuel pressure: If the fuel pressure regulator is bad/stuck you won't get pressure even though you hear the FP trying to pressurize with ign on. You should have about 36lbs of pressure.

Injectors:
You can check this either with a DMV or analog meter at the injectors, the resistor block (mounted on the pass side fender) or by the ECU. With the ign on you should see:
1. ECU: 12V on 3E,3H,3C & 3F
2. Resistor block: 12V on all 5 connections
3. Injectors: 12V on both connections of each injector.

While cranking the engine you should see deviations on the meter at the ECU connections.

If you do see deviations, then you should be injecting ok.

Running on starter fluid implies your timing and ignition system is ok.

Flooding: If it runs on starter fluid then you're not flooded and your compression is ok.

Good luck.

Russ