RPM Error - car won't start - No Leading Spark
 

This is a new install LT-10s in a S5 GTU T-II swap.
I have a green & yellow light on the MT,
(tps calibrated, fuel pump primes, injectors are working.)

The car wont start, and I get an RPM error while cranking.

Is this a CAS related problem?

I have the CAS harness wires from the MT going to the correct color wires on the CAS side of the plug.
And I have the CAS harness routed away from the alternator wiring & plug leads.

I have the Coils powered through a 12v switched relay,
but i don' t think it's getting leading spark while cranking, otherwise it would've started by now,


- See Attached Screen Shots of my datalog during cranking. -




The car was running fine before I started the MT install, so I'm pretty sure the CAS is good.

What should I try next?

It sounds to me like you have some wires mixed up. On the coil by the driver door and window, make sure you splice the wires in BEFORE the clip, you CAN NOT bypass teh clip, or you wont get a tach signal. Other than that, check everything, and i would check your CAS wires. Red->Red Green->Green Blue ->Stripe yellow->non stripe.

On which side of the clip?
Please be very specific,
i'm allready confused, & thought I had it hooked up right..

in the attached pic,
Is my trailing coil hooked up right?

The two wires at the bottom of the picture are switched 12v going to both of the tan wires on the coil.

On the four prong connector,

1.) I have the Grey/White Microtech wire attached to the body harness wire leading through the plug to the PINK wire on the coil.
(I have cut the body harness wire here, and attached the MT grey/white wire to the to the pigtail going through the plug to the pink wire on the coil.)

2.) I have the Grey/Green MT wire, attached to the body harness wire that leads through the plug to the WHITE wire on the coil.
(I have cut the body harness wire here, and attached the MT grey/green wire to the pigtail leading through the plug to the white wire on the coil.)

3.) I have the yellow tach wire from the coil still attached to the body harness yellow/blue tach wire.

4.) I have Cut the grey N/C wire, on the body harness side of the plug.


Is this correct?

The Yellow wire with the red x's drawn on it is just the Tach Test Connector sticking up from the body harness,.. it sort of looks like its spliced into the coil trigger wires in the pic, ,.. but it's not.

Please veiw the attached pic of my leading coil connection & tell me if it's right.

Edit: here I just added lables to the trailing coil pic aswell.

I just put it test mode for a second,
The RPM's only went to 680 on the microtech data display.

I know it's supposed to go up to 1800 rpm's in test mode.

What could be causing this?

I really want to drive my car!.. I'm having RX-7 withdrawls.. :rlaugh:

Ok So,
I do have leading spark in test mode,
my coil wiring must be right.
( & I guess my thread title is wrong then, haha)

That leaves the CAS wiring..
I have the CAS wires from the microtech hooked up like this:

I cut the stock harness CAS connector down to a Pigtail, and connected the CAS Harness from the Microtech to that,.. but I made sure the wires were matched up to the colors on the CAS side of the plug, not the pigtail..

So from the Microtech to the CAS excluding the pigtail section colors, I have:

Green to Green
Red to Red
Yellow to White
Blue to Black/white

Isn't this right?

I just rewired the Cas harness directly to the cas,..
I still get an RPM error & it won't start.
I tried switching the CAS wires around, still no deal..

Why does it only show 680 RPM in test mode?

Scratch that last post ^, I was trying to edit, but ran out of time..

Ok, I just rewired the Cas harness directly to the cas,..
I NO LONGER get an RPM error during cranking.

Why does it only show 680 RPM in test mode?


Also, What is "RX Data" ?


And, What should my Data "Output" guage read while cranking?
..with the stock base settings, it's currently maxed out past 12.



I'm runnig 550cc x 1000cc injectors now,
The air temperature is about 05 c. and the water temp at 19c.
How much should I tune down the base maps to keep from flooding.
And why wont it start?!?
I've been f-ing with it for two weeks!
I need help, please..
Thanks,
:sadwavey:

-Chris

at water_18c it should be around 50% so it can start. just get ready on the accelerator to help it start.

when you are cranking does the yellow light on the microtech flash evenly while cranking?

have you tested your injectors while in test mode?
have you checked that your microtech is for a 13bt?
get someone to be cranking and test for spark manually on the leading, dont test on the trailing as they wont have any spark when cranking. you car may simply be flooded and need a new set of plugs.

The ECU is new, direct from Microtech and configured for 13BT.

Yes, the yellow light blinks while cranking.

It's a steady blink, like:
"blink, pause, blink, pause Blink, pause, Blink,"

It's not like: " blink,blink,blink,blink,blink.. "

Is this ok?



The injectors do fire in test mode,
I'll have to check closer to make sure all 4 are firing

I have new plugs, & they are getting wet with fuel. (but I guess that could have been fuel from test mode)


Ok, next I'll try to see if I have spark while cranking.

I'm also going to double check & make sure I don't have my primary injector wires mixed up.. That could be causing it to get no fuel during cranking, because the secondarys don't turn on untill about 3000rpm, so If those connections were wrong, it could get fuel in test mode but not while cranking.
That's gotta be it!
.. or it's just flooded still,
If all else fails i'll try pull starting it.


Thanks again for the help!

Chris,
I had a big problem at first with fouling out plugs when it was cold. Now that it's not cold I don't think it would be a problem........but ya never know.

And as far as plug wiring, orange is secondary, yellow is primary.

I double checked the injector wiring.
It was right.
I'm definatly getting fuel, I checked while cranking with one plug out.

I just tried pull starting it down the street.
that should have cleared any flooding, but it wouldn't even try to catch spark.

So I checked the leading spark again,
I have leading spark, but it's really weak,
even with the coils wired directly to the battery.

could it be a bad ignitor?

I have a spare second gen trailing coil in the parts bin,
Can I hook it up as the leading coil?
How do I do it?

no.
get another leading coil and chuck it in.
ive had a leading coil burn out on me once.
sounds like everything is working and its flooded. get a new set of plugs, a jump on the battery, and it should start.

Ok, I'll borrow another coil from a friend.
I have a good charge on the battery, and a new set of plugs.

I tried to pull start it.
We Had it up to 1700 RPM's towing it behind a truck, & it didn't even try to fire up.

when I step on the gas pedal,
the indicator switches from IDLE to CRANK,
Instead of IDLE to LOAD.
-even when i'm not cranking.



With an S5 TPS, am I supposed to have it set at 0%??..
it's currently at 31% -and the yellow light stays on.

but it say's in the manual to set a variable TPS at 0%??
Is the S5 TPS variable?


Here's another datalog while cranking,
the yellow is from where I hit the gas just a little.
does this look right?

:icon16:
I GOT IT RUNNING!!


My CAS wires were cracked and frayed together at the edge of the rubber block on the CAS. (See attached picture)
i switched in a spare CAS that I had lying around.

Also, The car was flooded.
I made several attempts at de-flooding it, but it was still dumping in fuel while cranking with the plugs out.
Then I realized - To clear the flooding, -turn the mixtrim to -99% while cranking with the plugs out. then Turn it back up, when you put the plugs back in

-Then It Started!,
but ran really rich, so I tuned the idle & load maps down a little and it runs pretty good!


(The RPM error was just caused by low cranking voltage.)



-:lol: what relief..
Never give up people, you'll figure it out eventually.
Thanks again to everybody that helped, and I hope this thread will help others.

On a side note, I'd like to ad a link to this thread, since it was mentioned.

-To hook you S5 TPS up using the Full Range Sensor.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=TPS+wires