I looked around, but didnt see one. I dont have my manual with me, but im pretty sure ill be starting the car in a day or two. My IC pipes are finished, im just waiting on some couplers. Is there anything I should check before starting the car, or things I need to do before driving it? Like setting the timing, etc.

 

Our Heatshrink connections on the CAS where touching each other, and thats the reason were'nt getting spark.
I cut them and joined the wires by hand to see what would happen and the car started. So I soldered them back together and Heatshrinked them again and car would'nt start. So we seperated the 4 wires so that the would'nt touch eachother and it started right up. I'm not sure if the heatshrink carries over electricity or whatever but it did give us a problem. So you might want to check that.

 

I got it started. I was really **** with my wiring, so I know it was right. My electric fan blade fell off the motor and punctured the radiator, so i wont have it started for a few more days.

 

That's odd, but good to know

 

I heat shrinked every one of my connections, with no problems.

 

Ouch! Killed the radiator? That sucks.

It's good to hear you got the car started - did you get it to idle? If not, let us know once you get the radiator replaced and we can talk you through a basic idle setup (it's not too hard).

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

Oh yeah, I got it all back together, using the stock fan and shroud. A local forum member sold me a pristene radiator for $20. I drove it around the other day, and it ran great. Checked the timing today, and it was a hair and a half off. Adjusted it. The idle was a little high, 900-1000, and I lowered it to a rock solid 750 rpms with the screw on the TB. The car has been shut off and turned back on since, and it usually wont idle, it dies. I have yet to mess with it too much, drove it home being easy on it.

 

Ok, now what about setting up the idle?

The damn thing would start and idle immediately the other day, now it wont hold an idle at all, warm or not.

Also, I was just driving along, and the shift lights flashed on the dash unit, my tach bounced around, and the car bucked. It all happened over a period of about 2 seconds.

I also cant seem to figure out how to set up the Dash shift lights.

 

check the TPS cal for the idle, if that is correct and it wont idle adjust the fuel settings,

the tach boucing and the lights flashing, it could be some interfearence from the leads or something like that,

Dale

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that. The TPS doesent seem to be accurate. Its at 99% probably at about 2/3 throttle. Is it supposed to be that way?

Also, im a little confused on how to calibrate the TPS. I looked at the manual, and it mentions something about an asterik showing the TPS is calibrated correctly (Im going to go look for the manual now). I didnt see one (an asterik.)

 

that reading is correct, they are all like that on the t2 motors,

you need to go to the TPScal, when it is correct you will get a block or a astrix depending on the ecu you have,

Dale

 

This isnt the push button type TPS though, like the ones found on the TII. Its the -RE type, mounted on the end of the throttle plate shaft.

Still cant find my manual. Isnt there one online? Does anyone know which screen is TPScal by chance?

 

So I went out and found the TPScal screen. Theres 2 lines that show info on the handset. The top like has a % number, and the bottom line has a % number. In the manual it says to adjust the number until it reads 0, and shows an asterik. I adjusted the top number to 0, and got no asterik, while the bottom number read 78, I think. Am I supposed to adjust the top one so the bottom reads 0? I didnt think to try that before I left, as Im posting from school now.

 

Hey Tony

No you want the bottom number to read zero. I found however that not always will an asterik appear. Sometimes it read zero but now asterik, then I adjusted manually the TPS ever so slightly and and asterik appeared.

As for setting up the warning lights on the Dash, I know I've mentioned the manual contradicts it's self. The page explaining the Dash unit says it's in screen 29, but it is actually found in screen 31.

In addition more than a few people have had the same problem with bouncing tach and such. Dale is probably right about the interferance, you will notice an RPM error showing in the error screens when it happens. The Microtech seems very prone to this. The Wolf 3d and Haltech's I been in contact with rarely seem to have this problem even when all else seems to be equal.

 

It doesent really bother me much. I did re-adjust it to get the bottom number to zero, and got an asterik.

I still dont know why the dmn thing wont idle. It would start and idle fine the other day, now it wont idle at all. What should I be doing to the idle maps? Ive looked around a bit, and I dont see and intake leaks.

 

I play around with the mixtrm %. It will give you an idea of where the fuel should be at idle. Then you can go back and make increment changes to the idle map while adjusting the mixtrm back to 0%. How much timming are you running at idle?

 

I havent check the timing at at idle. I was playing with the idle mixtures, 15 and 10mmhg, and it didnt do much. as soon as I got too far in one direction it would die, but the idle would not rise. Ive been about to keep it running at 560rpms, but when I gas it there, it studders for about 500 or 1000rpms, the cleans up and runs great. my air temps were around 9C, moving up to about 13C after I drove around for 10 or so minutes. The idle adjustment screw doesent seems to change anything either.

 

Hmmm. Are you running in matrix or normal mode? I had that same studder at "tip" in, the value you have in the 5hg and that rpm (1000) is either to rich or too lean, try playing with that. I have also found because of the port job on my car it does not like to idle at 750rpm, it likes it a little higher, and at 850-900rpm the Microtech appears to start pulling numbers from the load map. If your looking at the matrix table it will start to pull numbers from the line below the idle values, try playing with those a bit. I have my timming at 15 degrees at idle it seems to like it there, different people have it all over the place though it seems. After some of the confusion regarding timming are you sure it's set properly?

 

Its set right at the CAS, I know that. Im a little confused about the matrix mode though. Is it only accessable through the laptop? I havent had a chance to hook my laptop up to my ECU yet, it has a retardedly short battery life.

 

Hmm, not sure about matrix mode with the hand controller but it can be used with the Dash unit. It's tough to understand though without the laptop software. I found I could run the car around alright in normal mode but it really need to put into matrix mode to drive anywhere beyond my neiborhood.

 

Im confused, whats the difference between the two modes? Im gonna hook up my laptop to it tomorrow.

PS. That picture is seriously disturbing.

 

normal mode is how all the ecu's come from microtech, you have one idle and one load map with rpmwot and rpmcrs for corrections, when in matrix mode you have a full set of load points every 500rpm,

To be honest i tuned my car in matrix mode the other night and normal mode is a hell of a lot simpler and easier to understand, keep it in normal until you have full knowledge of the ecu's working.

Dale

 

I found a breather tube I capped, leaking oil. So im going to pull the UIM on wednesday, and see if I have any intake leaks. Thats the best guess I have now. Would it help you guys if I took a log?

 

what was the % of the top # to get the bottom # to 0?

 

I believe it was in the 70's initially. I think it might be at like 20s now.