Ive been have a problem with this car since I got this new set up. It acts like it over heats it loads up loses power and shuts off when under a load of a hill. goin down hill it works fine I thought at first it was the oil return line wasnt flowing right. I fixed that but still have the same problem. I no Ideal what now I'm at wits end again, Ive check coolin system T-Stat works so no ideal why it over heats now. The turbo set up is different than the tune and I dropped the injector size to save fuel, the stock S5 turbo would spike from 10 to 20-30 on my boost gauge just watching it. not sure if it would actually hit that high but I've seen it and filmed it hit 20.

The e-fan was set to kick on at 90 but the car would shut down at 87 while I had the lap top on it so I dropped it to 80 and now it runs constant.

Heres a video of whats goin on the car had shut down 2 minutes before the Video. I had to run in and get the camera to record what was goin on...

http://youtu.be/aRuB08sO1KE

 

This is it in motion on night trying to make it home on the 15 freeway coming into Corona. It's a slight hill not steep at all.
http://youtu.be/r2QvpLlnb00

 

A little back ground about the car It has a Monster Street port, 3mm Apex seals, S4 c weight Rotors S5 plates and S6 Rotor housings. It originally made 360 on 10 psi with a t04e with a Trust 60mm wastegate and Manifold. At the moment I'm running a Stock JDM S5 turbo 2.5 downpipe and top mount instead of Front mount. When I get money coming back in I will be finishing up my setup with a either GT3076r a GT35r or T04S my SFP T4 manifold and HKS 40mm waste gate and 3 inch Down pipe.

 

Check the fuel tank to make sure the baffle around the pump isn't missing.

As for the temperature related problems, I can't make sense of what you are asking. But, has the car been tuned? Based on the videos, the car is breaking up. It sounds excessively rich.

According to the temperature display on the Microtech, is the car actually over heating?

Also if you are really hitting 20-30 PSI on an untuned ECU, STOP DRIVING THE CAR. You're going to blow it up.

 

The ECU is tuned to the engine. I bought the set-up pieced out by the owner of the car minus the Turbo set up, clutch and flywheel. The ECU was tuned to the car originally.

 

More back ground on the setup.
The guy that originally owned the car, built it for his ex-wife. She knew the way to hurt him was sell the car, even though he wanted to buy it from her she was spiteful and sold it for less to the guys friend. So the Ecu is what the original owner got from the friend cause he wanted to go a different route with the car. Then he started parting the engine out cause he wanted to go LS1. So all of the parts match the set up besides the turbo and plumbing.

 

I re-stabbed the CAS and it fixed the running excessively rich. Now I have to figure out turning down the Idle, from 1450-1800 when it gets warm down to a stable idle. I'll check the fuel sock tomorrow and recheck the T-Stat. I know the cooling system pressurizes but when its gets to op-temp it wants to keep coming out until the car cools down. My last first swap didnt do that so thats why I'm concerned about it.

The original owner said due to the port he had idle set at 1400. Also I have to figure out how to rewire the E-Fan from running constantly to kick on at the set temp of 88. Thanks for the help Flaco it was partly the Timing and Aaron Cakes I really enjoyed following Project Tina.

 

The hard idle stop on the throttle body has probably been turned up.

 

Idles and runs better still does the same problem. I noticed that my top oil cooler line is saturated with oil which is more than likely contributing to the low oil pressure on my gauge cluster. It some times doesnt read pressure at all and sometimes it goes up to 60 to 70 and as low as 0 to 15.

 

It sounds like there are problems with your tune.

Actually to be honest, it sounds like the car has a lot of problems to me.

You need to set the fan to come on at a sane temperature. 90 degrees is fine.

Is there a thermostat in the car? Check to make sure it is working.

The car needs to warm up to a constant temperature as controlled by the thermostat. Otherwise tuning it is going to be a problem. Still sounds to me like your temperature correction maps are way off.

Do you have a real boost gauge? It sounds like you are massively boost spiking.

Do you have a wideband to measure the A/F ratio? You need one if you are going to tune the car.

You also just can't arbitrarily change injector sizes without a re-tune. Doing so is dangerous as the car will probably run lean.

 

OK yesterday I pulled my UIM and found my primary injector for Rotor 1 unplugged so while I was in there I reinstalled my injectors back to what they were when I first got the engine. 860 in the primarys and 1680 for the secondarys. I need to finish my turbo set up but its impossible due to loss of hours / job slow. So question I will be doing a hybrid to my stock JDM S5 turbo. I'll be using a T3/T4 compressor and all the wheels to the S5 turbine, I'll be using my 2 1/2 down pipe. Do you think it will run better for now, cause the original set up was with a T04E and a Trust Manifold and 60mm W/G and a 3" down pipe. The set up I have to use if I can get ther rest of my set up if I can get the stuff would be the T3/T4, a 40mm HKS W/G and a SFP tubular manifold. The Turbo is a T3 flange while manifold is T4 but I have an adapter plate. What would be the the best route to take with this? I'll have 4 turbos come tomorrow when my boss drops the turbo off...