Hi guys

this is absolutely frustrating.

infos: 87 TII, microtech LT8, emission removed, hybrid turbo, FMIC.

engine has great compression ( over 100 psi on each rotor ) and always started before. TPS is set correctly and CAS was correctly stabbed.

Here's the deal:

I installed my LT8 and wiring harness with my father ( electrician BTW ) the first time. It didn't fire. I got no red light, yellow light was flashing when cranking. I had a good cranking speed and I even poured a little bit of oil just before storing my car for the winter.

I wasn't able to get the fuel pump to run unless I jumped the green wire (that goes to the Fuel pump relay) to the chassis. The lt8 grounds this green wire once ignition is on. So I assume that I may have a blown ground.

Other problem I had, Even if I got yellow light flashing when cranking ( which means that the ECU receives trigger from the CAS ). My coils never gave me a spark.

So I thought.... well let's redo the wiring from scratch. I asked a couple of wiring questions to you guys and you gave me pretty nice answers.

-I spliced my grey wires directly into the stock engine harness
-I left the stock ignition 12V as it was stock
-I spliced my LT8 pink wire on the stock ignition wiring ( It supplies a steady 12V )
-I hooked my fuel pump from the Fuel pump relay on the 2 blue wire that goes directly to fuel pump right after the stock fuel pump relay ( which I removed for sure )

Even with those modification, I'm still not getting any spark or fuel. This is driving me nut.

Do you have any idea or suggestion on this?

thanks a lot.

l-p

 

just to make sure... the microtech is reading rpm's..correct?

you have power at your ignition coils?
and your fuel injectors?

 

you can put the LT8 into test mode to be sure the coils are firing, if they are then your wiring to the CAS is wrong somehow or the CAS is bad, which is unlikely.

for the fuel pump, the wire to the fuel pump is solid black with a white tracer, if you have it hooked up to a blue wire then it is incorrect. (disregard the haynes manual wiring diagrams if that is what you are using, the wire is only blue from the pump module connector to the pump itself...).

 

Karack : I wired the fuel pump power supply right after the fuel pump relay near the air filter, I know it works. the problem is that the microtech doesn't ground the green wire to open the relay. When I ground the green wire to the chassis, the fuel pûmp primes.

Well I dont have any laptop adaptor yet so I cannot put it in test mode right now.

but one of my buddy's got a brand new LT8S and a laptop adaptor so I will be able to put it in test mode.

GUITARJUNKIE28 : yeah I got a solid 12 v to the coils, as for the injectors, I dont really care up to date, becauseif I dont get any spark or fuel, injectors are pretty much the least of my attention right now...

Anyway, I dont know if the microtech is reading RPM, but my tachometer isnt bouncing, even a little, when I crank.

what do you think about that?

 

obviously this is redundant info, but sounds like inputs are good,a nd you need to be concentrating on outputs.

can you take some screen shots of your setup pages and post them up?

 

if your green wire isnt working you have shorted the ecu and probably blown something up inside it,

put it in test mode and you should still get spark and injectors

Dale

 

GUITARJUNKIE28 : I know those were redundant infos, but after your suggestion, that was all I could answer about it since I dont have any laptop adapter or hand controller

DALE : It's not me who blew somthing inside it, I bought it used from a really reputable forum member that told me it was working, but it's obviously not.

this weekend i'll put it in test mode and see what it does

BTW, how much does it costs to get a microtech repaired?

 

ah its a second hand one?? thats a bugger,

to get that repaired wont be much at all, honestly if everything else is working just run the fuel pump off the ign and dont worry about it

 

That's kind of a bad idea. If the car flips/fuel line gets cut for any reason in an accident, if the car has power it's going to continue to flow unless the key is turned off. That's not exactly safe. I would believe that Microtech is at least safe enough to kill the pump when the engine isn't turning, which would lead me to believe it triggers the fuel pump off the input from the CAS. I'd start by checking all the wiring from there, and verifying that the microtech can actually read RPM.

 

Ford makes a electrical "rollovervalve" that you could use.
I know that they are in the trunk of european Fordmodels....
Atleast in the old ones like, Sierra and Scorpio.

 

same thing is happening to me, i get fuel and spark, but i dont see the rpm bounce on my software. wat do i do?

eric

 

i don't think it does on the microtech. i think it just flashes "crank"

 

really? i do see teh "crank" flashing but i dont see my rpm bouncing

eric.

 

are you getting spark on your trailing side?

and is the tach wired up correctly?

 

there is no wiring to the tach for the laptop, theres just an output to the cluster, but the laptop should read it either way right? yea there's spark on my trailing side left a black mark on my fender when i tested it, but i should check the leading.

eric.

 

the tach in the dash is wired to the trailing coils. it's yellow with a blue stripe if i remember correctly.

 

i didnt hook up the cluster yet, im just looking at the rpm off of the laptop

eric.

 

Updates guys

Well, one of my friends came with is BRAND NEW microtech LT8s, we plugged the ECU right into my harness.

I instantly got fire and my fuel pump was working. I played a bit with timing and the car started and ran like a charm!

I REtried my own LT8, no spark, no fuel

so, it is now 100% sure that my microtech isn't functionnal

anybody know how much to get it fixed?

 

go to www.microtechefi.com and send it to them for repair

 

Your second hand unit..are you sure it is configured for a FC 13B?

 

hand unit or computer ????

the computer was configured for a 13b-t

 

yeah, it came with the wiring harness terminated for a FC, and the installation manual was one a of a 13B