Injectors are all conected and plugged in.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8.../injectors.jpg

Air temp sensor

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...0MEETS/ATS.jpg

TPS

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...0MEETS/tps.jpg

FP relay

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...TS/FPrelay.jpg

Fuel pump

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...S/fuelpump.jpg

CAS

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...0MEETS/CAS.jpg

Trailing coil

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ailingcoil.jpg

Leading coil

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...eadingcoil.jpg

With the ignition at the ON im not getting the green light on the unit

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...MEETS/unit.jpg

I tested it with test ligh at the harness and im getting power on the red wire and not on the pink.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...unitwpower.jpg

The ground is conected to the battery and the power is conected to the battery w/ a 30A fuse in line.


what am i doing wrong.

 

Connect the pink wire to a ignition+ wire(use your test light and find a wire that has current only when the key is switched on). The microtech is turned on when the pink wire receives a positive signal.

 

I thought that was the purpose of running the pink wire to the tan wire on the plug coming out of the coil

 

Well i hooked up the pink wire to ign power and it turned on. I got a flashing red light wich is an error code but i dont have the manifold, tps or. Intake temp sensor hooked up. So tomorrow ill put all that stuff back on and see what happens.

 

that's probably what's throwing the error light. hook everything up and you should be ok.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but that wiring job is designed for failure. Here are some examples why:

Electrical tape is not to be used EVER to insulate electrical connections, especially in an engine bay. The heat will quickly dry it out, the adhesive contains acids that will eat the connection, and moisture will get trapped inside. Assuming you soldered, the solder will begin to corrode after a year or so. If the wires are just twisted, then the joint will become high resistance and fail in short order.

The proper way to connect two wires in a permanent fashion is to use adhesive lined heatshrink tubing. Solder all joints and then shrink the tubing over the joint with about 0.5CM excess on each end of the joint.

https://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k.../injectors.jpg

Standard crimp terminals don't have any protection against corrosion and will quickly fail. There are crimp terminals with built in heat shrink boots that you shrink over the wire after you have crimped, but they still corrode at the actual spade terminal. You can prevent this by using dielectric grease on the terminal itself and the wire before it's crimped.

In addition, there are specific relay sockets designed to accept a standard automotive relay. The contacts are encased in plastic to prevent shorts and they come with wire leads to solder onto. Dielectric grease should be applied to the contacts before the relay is installed.

https://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k...TS/FPrelay.jpg

I don't know what to say about this. If it lasts to the end of the driveway, I would be surprised.

https://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k...eadingcoil.jpg

 

This isnt permanent just trying to get it together to see if the car starts.

 

After alot of messing around and stepping back and at it again i finally got the car started today. I loaded one of the base maps that was posted in the sticky thread and the car stays on and runs a little ruff but it runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydMZ5p6gV4M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nlc2Zz_BOB0

Aaron i will be taking of the manifolds here in the next few days and cleaning up and shrink tubing the soldered connections.

I would also like to thank everyone that responded to Fb II's thread your advice came in handy with my install.