I got MTX-8 Ignition diagram..and it shows completly different conection.

this diagram shows red one is top(speed*12) signal and green is bottom(home) signal..
other two wires doesn't matter anyway becau se they both ground.
also they use bottom pin of the sensor for the signal when mine shows top pin for the signal..

well I guess I try anyway..

well I just keep looking at the diagram and I think there is no difference even though there picture is wrong.
because I didn't add any ground at the sensor side..their ground wire (blue and yellow) is different but it's just ground so I don't see any problem.

both picture red wire goes to top sensor bottom pin and green wire goes to bottom sensor bottom pin..
no difference what so ever..

damm it just gave me headache but nothing..

I'll post some more picture..

How about ignition output diagram?
it shows grey/blue is tach out but I don't even have that color I have grey/black
I assumed that's the same wire so I left alone for now.

it also corrected from orignal diagram I think because color of the wire has been changed..

but Now I got to make sure every possible thing..

OK I double checjed everything and move CAS wiring from coils.

now MY leading timing while crnaking with timing light shows BTDC 10.also on handset shows 10 too.
I'm thinking 10 BTDC is too much advanced while cranking.
can anybody check hand set while cranking?

also anybody know how much gap between CAS and CAS wheel.because when I check timing wight light it doesn't light fast enough I know some timing light not really pick up the signal too good but also if CAS signal is weak it'll do too.

I just don't get it it has good compression,fuel and spark but no go..doesn't make sense.

Well if your checking timing on crank its not going to light up very fast.

Next if you have too much timing while cranking, the engine will act as if it is trying to seize up.

While cranking now, what does the engine do? Crank and do nothing?

when I crank
well it allmost trying to fire but not really I can even see some smoke also my wideband shows some 16.o but not really fires.

but it's not like it tried to seize I understand if timing is too much advance engine should try to kick back..but I don't really feel that..I'm thinking may be flouded too much spark plug not firing really?
but also I tried all kind of de flooding method but still was same..

BTW I programed the new map which you posted for someone with similer set up.
but funny thing I can't adjust first line in t*rpm map.
your map shows
screen 23
t*rpm

idle~00

but my lt10s was set to 10 and I couldn't lower that value when ever I change it'll change back to 10 again..
I don't know because this map was originally fot lt8 and mine lt10 that's why it wouldn't let me lower?
I thought this line is actually set the timing when cranking.

I have to charge the battery again and try again tomorrow..it's really furustrating now..

is 10 BTDC normal when cranking?because MAZDA shopmanual says atdc 5 degree if remember correctly.

thanks again..

Ok. If you cant adjust the number in trpm on idle it means your OPT_Timtrm is set to 10.
Go to your option and look for it. Youll see it.

Also.
Put 150-200ml of oil done the runner of each rotor. See if it starts.

OK actually my opt_timtrim was set to 0 but my OPT_static was set to 10..
so I changed is to 0 now my cranking ignition is 0..
is this sound alright?

I really don't know but I guess that's some kind correction value right?

but if I check the timing with actual timing light it still shows about 10 deegree BTDC. well my timing light is so old might be not accurate..
my battery is so weak I could just program and some cranking I'll try again over the weekends..

thanks again

You need good crank, good plugs and good compression for it to start.
Yes opt_static is the correct one. it is a set minimum timing value. my brain is alittle crusty.
at 10 degrees it will still start.

Did you put some engine oil in it and try start it?

I have an LT10s diagram for an FD that also shows red and green going to ground! It also fails to mention anywhere that the fan output is no longer white,as found out when the fans didn't come on! It says white and red on another diagram for a 13b turbo,but it was white and black that made them work.
Also on the 13b turbo diagram it does not show the igniton wiring,says see separate igniton diagram,nowhere to be seen.
Time Microtech reprinted their diagrams!

Microtech have been very slack since the "new" a-grade dealer came on and took control.

The wire for the fan should be white/red. Why it ended up being white/black is bloody weird.

Microtech have been very slack since the "new" a-grade dealer came on and took control.

The wire for the fan should be white/red. Why it ended up being white/black is bloody weird.

OK my compression is back..but still doesn't start.
my rear rotor compression was 60 psi but after trying tow start now got perfect
compression front 120psi rear 140 psi..
but still doesn't start it almost start engine even gets warm but still not turning over.
also very funny thing even my handset shows 0 degree timing if I use timming light it's not 0 it's like 15-20 BTDC..

now I'm bypassing the MSD so it's not the MSD issue..

any ideas?

So your bypassed the msd
How is it running now?

Lt10s+x4box and 4X bosch hec715 coil packs?

it has stock ignitor and stock coils now..
that waht my lt10s supposed to be set up.

well this whole microtech is a big joke I think.
I have big dought un wiring diagram I have..
for the ignition it shows
grey/red to leading ignitor
grey/white to trailing front
grey/green to trailing rear
and grey/blue to tach.

well on my lt10s doesn't have grey/blue it has grey/black instead.
so untill now I just haven't connected grey/balck to tach..
today car still didn't start showing wrong timing again so I just wanted to make sure I just connect grey/black to factory tach wire(yellow/blue) but factory tach
doesn't work..

now I don't even know which wire has to go where..
can you tell which wire goes to where by pin position not by color?

My worst fear came true today..
I was hopping I could start the engine today but I only found I have coolant O ring failure..
Well I guess nothing wrong with MT or MSD damm too much coolant comming out from rear rotor when I removed EX manifold water was pouring out!!.

damm rebuild time comes so soon..

may be I'll do some more porting this time..

special thaks to rx72c.
I'll keep posting after rebuild..

No dramas mate.
let me know for your rebuild parts.
Ill do you a good price. Just msg me.

that diag is right,

just hook blue and red to one sensor and yellow and green to the other

Dale.
I have done a few lt10s installs on FD and that diagram is different.