dumb microtech question
 

Hi there!

I'm not having quite a lot of trouble with my T2!

car n mods :

87T2, reman motor with 45 000KM, 100 PSI on each rotor, hybrid turbo with monster ported WG, HKS front mount, 550/1500CC injectors, Old school greddy BOV, emission removed, TB mod, greddy profec B spec 2 at 7/11 psi etc

Long story short:

Got a broken microtech while the guy told me it was in working condition ( thanks Smoken' ) and it turns out it was only a blown transistor and 2 circuit's traces blown on the cardbord. My friend's cybernetic shop took care of that rapidly.

Then I got my car street tuned du Steve Kan (as you may know, he comes down to quebec every summer) and during a whole summer it drove great. Steve told me my engine was healthy and tuned me to 7 and 11 psi (really moderate as you can see, I like to be on the safe side )

But my idle speed was too high (around 1100 rpm) since I'm on stock ports. So I tried to fix this, but I got mistaken between the throttle stop screw and the TPS screw(dumbass). Ever since that moment, the car acted funny, with bizzare AFr.

So I called one buddy with his laptop and fixed the TPS issue. it's now properly calibrated.

Since the engine had flooding trouble, I sent all my injectors at Rc engineering and they are all now perfect. My AFr are more adequate too

Now here's the problem : If i charge the battery for the day and start the car after a day or two, it starts almost right up! but it doesnt hold his idle. If it descends at 1000 rpm, it wants to die. if it dies, I cant get it to start immediatly after. If I wait till the day after, it starts right up but still doesnt hold his idle!

what could cause that???

could a vacuum leak cause my problems??

the wiring is correctly done since I made it with father and he is an electrician.

Any input would be appreciated, since I never drove my rx-7 this summer and I did drive it all the time previous summer.

thanks a lot

l-p

did you test your alternator?

how would this be related to a starting issue??

you said you had to keep changing your battery and the car wont start if the alternator and or battery isnt right

Map is probably too lean to sustain a cold start. Try tuning up both the Af_StE a few percent and increase the Water map a few percent.

Well aaron if it dies, doesnt that mean its too RICH instead on lean?

because when i get it started and keep the throttle to 2000-3000 rpm ( in neutral of course) I get air/fuel around 13.5 and sometimes it goes down to 13

what do you think?

The engine will idle quite well at 13:1. But if you start it and it immediately dies, then it needs more fuel.

What is the exact problem here?

If I let the car sit for a day and have a full battery, it starts almost right up. (although sometime I have to play a little with my fuel pump cut switch, but the car has always done that... )

But once it's started, i have to hold the throttle to keep the engine running. As soon has I take my foot off the gas pedal, when the rpm goes down to 1000, the engine starts to tumble, shake and shuts off

With my foot on the gas pedal holding it to 2000-3000 rpm, I see air fuel ratios from 12 to 14

When it dies because I took my foot off the gas pedal, it doesnt want to start immediatly after. I have to let it sit for a couple hours. It sounds like flooded I know, but remember I got my injectors Back from RC engineering and they are now all excellent and non dripping

So I'm pretty confused on this one!!!

You think adding more fuel will help it???

Add more fuel to the idle map. 13:1 is too lean.

12:1 is way too rich when holding the throttle under no load at 2000 RPM, 14:1 is probably too lean to give you a decent idle until the car is fully warmed up.

get your idle to 12.5:1 on idle. and it will be right.