-Wire 14 gauge for the power and grounds.
-Wire tap-ins for running power to the injectors.
-Solder iron
-Solder (duhhhh.... )
-Gasket paper
-Laptop
-Voltmeter
-New ECU
-Electrical tape
-Zip ties

Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Joe

 

you need
1. LOTS of heatshrink tubing
2. throw away the tie in connectors
3. get some good quality ring terminals
4.about 3 more rolls of electrical tape
5.roughly 20 feet of 12awg wire(for fuel pump)
6. spade connectors for wiring in the fuel pump relay.
insulation of your choice(ribbed tubing, dei heatsheild, lots and lots of electrical tape)
7.maybe some spare wire for extending some of the leads.

You dont need wire tap ins for the injectors. Each injector lead has 2 wires, 1 is for power and the other is a pull to ground lead. Just match up the corresponding leads on the injector connector and solder the wires together.

 

How do you know what side to to put the ground to on the injector?

I second the vote for a shitload of heatshrink tubing, and some split loom tubing.

 

from the Lt manual

 

Anybody know what kind of store stocks heatshrink tubing so I don't have to goto 5 different stores to find it?

 

Well radio shack has some small pieces in assorted packaging that is kinda expensive because you will have to buy a few packs of it. As much as I hate to say it, Fry's Electronics is the place to get bulk heatshrink tubing(ugghhh, shudder). They sell it by the foot.


Technically, it doesnt matter which way you wire the injectors. But if you are using injector connectors that were cut from the harness, you will have 1 black/yellow wire(Pull to ground) and then a Green/(some other color) wire. I used connectors from some hacked up jspec harness so I wired my injectors the same. Connected the Pull to ground wire from the microtech to the black/yellow wire, and the +12v from the microtech to the green/(mystery color) wire. But Again, POLARITY DOESNT MATTER, thats just the way I did it.

 

Fry's would be something like circuit city or best buy? We don't have those around here (Fry's).

On a side note, I'm going to have my laptop connected to the internet the whole time I'm doing this sitting somewhere in my garage...

AIM SN = josepi007

If you guys want to see how I'm doing or have some advice/questions. No camera though... atleast not the digi kind.

 

I will add you to my Im list, I use trillian so I can message across networks, hit me up if you have any questions.

 

I didnt think that it mattered.

Heat shrink by the foot? Thats would be ****. Ill have to look for a place that sells it like that. The only other place I can reccomend for heat shrink is Radio Shack, but it gets expensive as they said cause you have to buy multiple packages of bags that have all sizes in them.

 

you should be happy that you dont have a fry's electronics! look for some electronics stores(other than radio shack) for some heatshrink tubing

 

Update:

UIM/TB removed
ECU removed

Getting ready to cut open the ol harness.



It's taken longer than I had planned, it's my first time taking off the UIM so that threw quite a few curveballs.

Looking at the number of wires with the old ECU i'm amazed at how the LT8 can function!

 

When you hear the wires in the stock harness go CRUNCH you'll wonder how it ever worked properly.... Or maybe it didnt

 

One question...since I haven't DLd the body electrical yet, and the engine elec doesn't show, what are the two greenish connectors at the top of the cabin side ECU harness?

I'm not cutting till I find out what they are!

 

Hobby stores carry bulk shrink wrap as well. You may want to check there too.

 

green plugs are all diagnostic plug ins. Basically worthless without the stock ecu i'm sure.

You only need a few plugs from the stock harness.. mine's still laying over the cherry picker.. i should trash that crispy thing

 

Hindsight, I think they are yellowish, they do plug into something.

The two plugs when plugged in are right next to each other. Pass side wall by the firewall...

 

That's a good point -- are all of the diag plugs not going to be needed after an MT install? Just thinking to myself, I would assume that diagnostics would be pointless w/ the MT as it has everything I need to know??

by the way, when is that next group by again?

 

The only plugs you'll use off of the stock harness are:

Intake Air Temp
Water Temp
CAS
TPS
Injectors (if you don't get new ones... but you should!)

...and you'll be splicing into three wires for the coils, but not cutting the plugs themselves (well, you could but you don't have to).

And the next GB will be announced Real Soon Now.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

C'mon man, You're kililng me here!!

Oh, btw, got an off-topic question, but I'll go post it as a new thread.

 

Wipers and cruise control?

 

They were.

(for anybody who wonders in the future...)

 

I'm preping my car now, so I'm ready when the LT8 gets here.

I have some ?'s (if you don't mind me asking on your thread)

I've got the stock ECU out.
I've got the 2 smaller harneses/wires, that go from the ECU to the engine bay, out.

The wiper motor harness is mixed up w/ those harneses. I got it out. Is the water temp. wire (that gose from the sensor to the stock gauge) in there to? I would like to keep the stock temp gauge. Can I just run 2 wires from the sensor? one going to the stock gauge & one going to the LT-8?

Do I leave in the largest harness that went into the ECU, in the car? {This is the one that goes over to the driver side}

I'm going out to take pics now. May be it will help.

 

This is the biggest of the 3 harnesses that go into the ecu. This one doesn't go through the fire wall on the pass. side like the other two did.

Do I just leave in in?

Does it have swiched power that I can use? Say, to power the LT-8?

 

Forgot the pic.......duhh

 

This is the harness (one in my hand) that has water temp. sensor wire & wipper motor harness in it. It pluged in that other female harness.

If I leave it pluged in, will I staill have the wipers & water temp gauge?