HI ,

I got a LTX-8 on a S4 13BT

I need some assurance I did the zero'ing correct

Heres what I did: after car warmed up a bit 1st)

I took out the CAS (with the black cap off)
moved the pulley till the yellow marker lined up with the pointer

pointed the CAS's inside pointers as in this PIC (Hitmans site)
reserted CAS holding the CAS wheel in place

went into the Handset and set timmiing lock on.

car started right up

got my "advancing" digital timming light
set the advance to 5 degrees

moved the cas till the yellow marker was in par with front cover marker
hand tighted CAS bolt and took timming LOCK off

car now idles good 850 RPM
went back into the engine bay with the car still running
and got the timmin light and checked too see where the yellow marker was now
with the timming lock off.......The yellow marker is now about 5 mil's away from the pointer, towards the passenger side firewall (so you can picture it)

when I REV the motor it moves more towards the passenger side of the engine bay......

I think it I did correct
it starts right up, no backfiring or hunting for idle etc
revvs real good to 5K

when idle'ling on the main handset screeen it says 10 BTDC
when the car is off with the handset on it says -5 or 5 BTDC I forget which

everythiing went well with the install
except for the AT sensor is not working
I tried 2 diffrent sensors and tried resetting the err screen holding the "mode" button for 2 seconds and nothing

IS there another Air temp sensor that has a similar resistance (OHM)
from another car I can use?


Thanks for any Help
in advance........

 

What is you static value set at?

 

I'll have to check
which screen is that under?

I'm pretty sure the ECU's come set already 5 degrees for rotaries
and 10 degrees for pistons preconfigured right?

 

Have you did a search? Here Is a well described thread on this. Good luck.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=timing

 

Oh my Thanks for the Link Silver
now I'm more confused.... lol!

Heres the deal
"after" I did the zero'ing
If I put timming to "lock on" it would go to TDC....I.E the yellow mark and the pointer would line up.....then hit timming lock off it moves about 5 degrees on the pulley towards the passenger firewall...with a RPM of 1100
(had a slight vac leak when I did this)

Ok in that link timming "static" is on screen 30

I'm confused on this post by Brandon in that Link

"Yes - the timing when the ECU timing is "locked" is controlled by a single variable called "Static" on screen 30. Instructions from Microtech state (for a rotary) to set timing at 5 degrees ATDC on the base map - this means that you must make the timing pin point at the first mark with a light on T1. Pretty simple stuff. I've done numerous installs following just this procedure and have had zero problems whatsoever.

I used L1 to hook up my timming light
was that a mistake or do you use T1?
I always thought T was for the red marker and L the yellow marker


this is interesting from Jon@rxeng:

"To end up with the same result using the static option,lock the timing & adjust the crank angle sensor so the yellow mark is lined up with the pointer,then put +5deg in static.The ecu will then add 5 deg overall in all your timing values.So as you know,the timing was locked at 5 deg atdc but with the 5 deg static value it is now at TDC,and all the timing values in all the screens will be correct".

hmm I'm going to check what the static is set to
when I get to the shop tommarow

Its a slightly used system so maybe the previous owner set it to 5 deg already
I'll post my finding tommarow

Thanks for the Tips and Link

 

Another way to setup what Jon was saying, is that if you were to remark your pulley 5mm to the right of the yellow mark, set static to zero put timming lock on, and adjust the CAS so the new mark is on the pin, this would be TDC...where you idealy want it.

John
88 GT-R

 

the way i zeroed my timing was turning the lock on and setting the value to 5 then i set the motor to the right mark on the pully which is 5 degrees. the way i see it as long as u tell the micortech where the motor is at then its fine. i didnt like the whole trying to guess where zero was on the pully and then try to make a mark.

 

Ok Just got back from looking at the car. The Static timing is set to +5
In reading what Jon had posted, we have 3 methods to zero time a 13BT

1) Static set @ Zero from factory
Lock timing and set the yellow mark with the pointer
(timing will be zero'd @ 5 eg ATDC

2) re-mark pulley

3) (Is the method I have/did)
lock the timing & adjust the crank angle sensor so the yellow mark is lined up with the pointer,then put +5deg in static.The ecu will then add 5 deg overall in all your timing values.So as you know,the timing was locked at 5 deg atdc but with the 5 deg static value it is now at TDC,and all the timing values in all the screens will be correct.

This time after I saw that my static was set @ +5
I locked the timing and set the adjustable timing light to 00 instead of the 5 I did before . I Moved the CAS till the yellow marker was even with the pointer and turned off lock.
I think when I put 5 degrees on the timing light I added 5 degress to the timing
So now it should be zero'd.....(fingers crossed..hehe)

The only thing concerning me now with option 3
is that I already had it set to +5, in Jon's method I was suppose to be at ZERO
lock timming align pointer w/ yellow mark..."Then" set static to +5
then turn off lock
Hope my way has the same results........................................... ........................................

 

static is what it reads the timing as. for example, if you set static to 5 ATDC and then time the pulley to zero, it will be off by 5 degrees.

all you have to do is set static to 5 ATDC and then time it to the yellow (right) mark on the pulley. simple.

pat