You can do that as well, but it's easier to do what I said IMO.

You called it an O2 sensor so yes I assumed. IF you had called it a WBO2 controller I'd have assumed you had a wideband.

It does not go to the MS3x at all, it goes to the standard O2 pin on the main board. You'll want to make sure you use a 0-5v output, and you'll have to calibrate the MS for that controller.

The built in wiring, switches, and relays on the 7 itself will disengage the starter when the clutch is not in, etc...

The inhibitor switch is only used with the auto transmission as far as I can tell.

There is no need to hook any of that to the MS unless you're trying to use launch control or similar.

Ken

Well, I do want launch control as I plan on the ocassional tracking, but I thought that was just a switch activated feature.

Also, an O2 connection, I thought, was an O2 connection no matter what since the MTX-L, and others I've read, can output a NB signal. But, then what is the EGO2 for on the MS3x?

It needs to know when the drivetrain is engaged so it can remove the revlimit. IIRC people use the clutch switch for that. You can connect it to any of the generic inputs listed in the launch control feature in tunerstudio.

EGO2 (and 3, and 4, etc...) are for per-bank or per-cylinder EGO control. You don't have to hook anything to those unless you're going to do EGO per rotor in this case.

You don't want to use the narrowband signal, you want the 0-5v signal (that tells you 10:1 to 20:1 AFR instead of just stoich, lean, or rich). If you calibrate the MS for this, it allows you to put values in the AFR table and target the specific AFR you want instead of only being able to target stoich.

Ken

Cool, well I just got my premade connectors from DIYAutoTune so I should be soldering them up to the BOB later but I think I've got most everything figured out now, though I could be back with more questions. Thank you Ken and Aaron.

Okay, so the FC write-up says Ne- goes to pin 2 but that is the shield, the black wire is pin 1. Should I assume the write-up is wrong again?

And, the coil 12v switch ones, do those get switch power straight from the battery?

Edit: I feel stupid, 1,2,7-19 so it wouldn't matter on the Ne- correct?

Now, I've got CAS, WB, fuel, and spark wired up to the BOB, assuming 12v comes straight from the battery. I've also got 12v switched to the ECU in as well.

What else am I going to need? I know BAC but which does that go to? MS3 PWM idle says it does 0.8a and the MS3x does 3a, or would it matter? I still have to do CLT and IAT, but I feel like I'm forgetting something. What about all the solenoid rack?

Just went with BAC on the MS3x. Just finished CLT and IAT. Now, I'm still undecided on how to do the fuel pump. Is the MS fuel pump control just a ground or does it send power? If it was a ground I was thinking of just jumping the test connector and running 3A from the stock ECU to the MS fuel pump control.

I really don't wanna have to rip out my amps and sub box and carpet again just to rewire the pump and I don't want to just have a single hanging wire on the connector running back into the interior.

Ne- should just go to any ground.

The coils should get power from the main relay. Just leave that as stock.

Ken

Use ms3x idle for the bac. The only useful thing as far as making the engine run right in the solenoid rack is the fuel preassure regulator solenoid.

Also, you should not wire +12v straight from the battery to the MS. Only switched 12v should be connected.

Ken

The fuel pump output is meant to ground a relay. All the outputs are meant to be grounds.

Ken

Which pin is the FPR? I'm thinking 2M? And which pin should that go to on the MS? Also, I don't have any 12v straight into the MS, just the red switched 12v from 3J on the stock ECU, unless I should be getting that somewhere else?

So would jumping the test connector and running 3A to the MS fuel pump control work?

Okay, so I'm now into attempting to get it started for the first time. My IAT is reading like 270F and I cant get a TPS reading. I know there are two spots for IAT, which should I use? I'm assuming the dynamic chamber one? Also, how about TPS? I've got MS-22 running to 2G but get nothing.

So, I forgot the 5v ref for the TPS, bout to solder that in right now. But, still wondering about my IAT reading.

5v ref is hooked into 2B and I still get 1023 for TPS reading no matter if it's open or closed.

So, I think I've figured it out... 1A/2A/3A on the stock wiring does not equal A1/B1/C1 on the DIYBOB apparently. But, that doesn't explain why I got power to the MegaSquirt... unless the main relay supplies power to the ECU when the key is on aswell?

The main relay supplies power to the ECU in On and in crank.

Ken

Okay, I've got everything rewired in the proper spots now, I've got TS all set up and pulled the EGI INJ fuse so I don't get fuel or spark but I can't get a sync out of it. I've got CKP- to 1Q, CKP+ to 1T, MS3 Pin 15 to 1P, and MS3x Cam Input to 1N. Does that sound right?

Figured it out. Had to turn down the pots on the mainboard and ms3x. Just got back from a drive and attempting to tune. I just can't get it to stay alive coming to a stop unless I tap the throttle when I throw it in neutral. Other than that I've got it pretty well dialed in, but haven't been able to reach the whole VE map.

AS far as keeping it alive when you come to a stop, you might need more air from the BAC, more timing, or more fuel or some combination of those things.

Ken

I attempted to get an .msl and tried to get it to happen but I didn't really have to come to a stop this last time I took it out. But, if I stab the throttle while sitting it happens too. I can't upload it though because it's too large of a log unfortunately and I don't know how to trim it down.

Looking over my log last night, I'm thinking I may have too much fuel and/or timing down around idle.

I've made a few changes and it does help a little bit but it does still happen. I've got two logs beforehand trying to get it to happen then the third log it happens and I got it also when I parked it and revved it up a bit.

I don't know what all is needed so I've got the three logs and my tune in here.

Try adding some fuel at the bottom left of the table. Also make sure if you have overrun fuel cut enabled, it brings fuel back in at around 1800 rpm or higher.

Ken

I think I've got it figured out now. I'm pretty sure it was the overrun fuel cut delay setting, I upped it to 3 seconds just to check if that was it and I dont have a problem up to like 6k rpm sitting in the driveway. So I'm figuring the 1 second delay plus the dashpot was causing it to cut fuel before it got back down to idle and having my activation rpm at 1500 per Aaron's guide and an 1100 rpm return, as his MS2 guide doesn't have that setting, with a 750 rpm idle just weren't working well.

I think I'm going to bring up the return point to about 1450, I don't know how well having them both the same would work, and then turn the delay back down to about 1.5-2 seconds. I figure some experimentation should get it ironed out fairly well.