Description:

Reposting to be clear about price drop.

Selling my 1993 Mazda RX-7 R1 in Vintage Red with a manual transmission.  156,542 miles which may increase from short rides on weekends to keep things ready to go.

I’ve taken a lot of high res photos for full transparency and you can see them all in this linked gallery.  The car was hand washed right before I took these pics so you'll see some water drops.  I also have PDFs of all shop invoices (IRP and body shops) that I can share.

Photo Album Link:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/RCfFaqHAWUuwZkEk7

The Good

Engine
13B rebuilt by IRP (~1300 miles since rebuild, ~300 miles since tune)
Haltech Elite 2500
IRP Haltech Elite mounting bracket
Bosch WB1 Single Channel Wideband
IRP Stage 3 build with aggressive street porting
Rxparts 2mm Apex Seals
New solid corner seals and OEM springs
New OEM engine bearing set with large clearance
Atkins thermal pellet
Fast-acting intake temp sensor
IRP polyurethane medium stiffness motor mounts
Injector Dynamics 725/2000 fuel injectors on CJ Motorsports fuel rails
Apexi boost control solenoid and 3 bar MAP sensor
Walbro 450 E85 Pump
LMS-EFI single turbo engine harness
Koyo N-Flo dual pass radiator
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Apexi meth injection kit (pulling fluid from the washer tank)
Tial blow off valve
Relocated fuel filter

Turbo Setup
IRP single turbo manifold with dual Tial MVS wastegates
Garrett GT35R turbo
Incocel turbo heat shield
Racing Beat dual tip muffler
All new turbo coolant hoses/piping
Greddy style (not actual Greddy) front mount intercooler
Greddy elbow

Transmission
OS Giken 1.5 way LSD
Driveshaft Shop chromoly rear axles
ACT ZX6-XTSS Street Clutch Kit
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
ACT counterweight

Brakes/Hubs
Stoptech Sport slotted rotors all around with Hawk HPS pads
Stainless steel brake lines
New wheel bearings and ARP studs on rear hubs
New brake booster
New front hubs with wheel bearings
New OEM pillow ball and dust seal sets

Wheels/Suspension
Custom aluminum hub and wheel centric 36mm spacers on rear
Gorilla lug nuts
Enkei PF07 wheels, 18x8.5 front 45mm offset and 18x10.5 rear 15mm offset
New OEM front tie rod ends (installed with tune, ~100 miles on them)
Apexi N1 ExV coilovers
Alignment and suspension tuned with Howard Coleman's recommended specs

Interior
RX8 shift ****
Goodwin Racing flat bottom steering wheel with red stitching
Reupholstered stock seats with Riddies seat covers
Complete CarbonMiata matte carbon fiber interior trim
Carbon fiber door sills
Aluminum door cups
Leather Shift and ebrake boots with red stitching
Custom cut sheet metal rear speaker brackets
Includes OEM front floor mats that aren't shown in the pictures

Audio/Electronics
Pioneer SPH-DA210 stereo with new subwoofer pre-out wiring run to hatch
New Kicker DSC650 6.5 front and DSC680 6x8 rear speakers
Everstart Platinum AGM battery relocated to trunk

Body
Pettitt wide body rear fender flares molded into the body
Clear front and rear side marker lights with smoke tint
New OEM front fenders (both)
New OEM hood
New OEM hood hinges
New front shrouds (FD01-53-12XL, what the radiator support connects to)
New OEM belt moldings and weatherstrips on doors
99 tail lights
DEPO JDM style smoke front signal lights

Mustang dyno’d to 381HP and 324lb/ft, dyno and compression test results are included in the photo gallery

The Bad

After working on the car for a few years (then handing it over to IRP when I was out of my depth), I went to get it registered in NJ and was informed it had a salvage history in Ohio.  It looks like NY basically washed the title.  Whether this guy knew it or not, I’m not sure.  When I found this out it was already sometime in 2016 while it was at IRP.  I then did a lot of searching and found the user and their build thread, which you can see here.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...oject-1043087/

That's the car I own.  I’ve done a lot of work since then, including having two body shops work on it.  The first (VF Auto in Metuchen NJ, which I recommend no one go to) charged me almost $8000 and the paint job had issues twice that I never bothered to go back to correct because I didn’t trust them at that point.  They did however install new front fenders, a new hood, and new hood latches.  New Trimble Auto Body in Clifton NJ (highly recommend them) might have found the damage associated with the recorded accident and salvage history.  The passenger side frame rail had a kink in it and the front shrouds (what the radiator support is welded to) were damaged.  Both shrouds were replaced, the frame rails were inspected and fully repaired, and all of it was repainted in Vintage Red.  I attempted to get a reconstructed brand from NJ but they won't because I don't have pre-repair pictures or the damage report from whatever insurance company in Ohio declared the total loss.

Another bad thing is the intercooler pushes out the bumper a bit, making the gap between the bumper and hood uneven.  The bumper was cut away (before my time) to make room for the intercooler but there's still not enough room to prevent this.  I was told a thinner intercooler or going v-mount would easily solve that.

The passenger side window catches on the new exterior belt molding when it rolls up.  I haven’t been able to figure out why and I continue to work on it.  I replaced the drivers side belt molding and it doesn’t happen on that side.  The windows also roll up slowly, with the passenger side slower than the driver side.  The side mirror switch doesn’t work.  I’ve disassembled it and cleaned it but it doesn’t work.

The seals around the windshield and rear glass are in poor condition.  The front cowl is damaged which you can see in the pic of it.

The car definitely had an electrical fire of some sort.  The passenger side airbag wiring was burned through and a lot of other wires were basically roasted.  I removed the airbag system wiring from the passenger side and will include it with a sale.  When I bought the car, none of the lighting worked.  I removed the entire front harness, went through it inch by inch, and ran new matching GXL (or TXL when GXL of the correct color/size was unavailable) for any wire that had damage.  I replaced full runs, from connector to connector, not just spliced the bad parts out.  I also replaced all connectors and pins that were burned with new parts if they were available (CorsaTechnic was excellent for this).  All lighting and electronics 100% work now (except the power windows).  There is no heater core or AC, so while those buttons/dials work, there’s no hot or cold air coming out (except the hot air naturally entering the cabin from the engine bay).  The car didn’t have power steering when I bought it but I had IRP reinstall an OEM setup I bought from a user here and it works perfectly.  The SRS light blinks, I’m pretty sure ABS was deleted.

The glove box isn’t installed because I don’t have the mount for its left side.  The transmission tunnel trim on the passenger side is missing.  The interior side of the door handles do not have their plastics/sails.  The driver side kick panel is missing.  I don't have the map pocket lid.  The interior was tan.  I painted the seat belt receivers black and wrapped the vinyl material in a fabric type heat shrink.  I think it looks good but you may not.  The covers on the outer sides of the seats are painted black, one very well and one not well because I foolishly decided to sand it first.  The rear divider panel is painted black.  The rear bins are black originals that I bought from a member here.  Both rear hatch side plastics have extensive plastic welds to repair cracks and broken tabs.  The dash has damage which should be visible in the pics.  The center speaker grill is gone and there is no center speaker.  The windows are tinted and the tint is damaged.  I planned to remove it and maybe I still will.

I’ve captured everything I can think of for full transparency.  A few final notes.

• I’m willing to show the car in person and over video calls.  I have no problem with giving a potential buyer as much info as possible.  The car isn’t perfect, but there’s nothing you’ll be left unaware of.
• I’m only selling the car because I can’t enjoy it as much as I’d like.  Between barely fitting in it due to my size and medical matters that badly complicate my comfort, it’s better off going somewhere else.  I don’t plan to replace it with anything, my vroom vroom days are over.  No trades and no convincing me to keep it.
• I have no financial need to sell it.  I’m open to offers and you're entitled to your opinion of its value, but I don’t need to accept a low offer.