Banzai Racing is down in Princeton. Not exactly the "Indy Area" -- but by rotary shops standards, having one within a couple States is about as "local" as you can hope for.

 

Check fuel pump related fuses and relays. Sudden failure of those happens from time to time.

 

Try to start with engine starter spray. If it kicks in, then it might be a fuel pressure issue.

Even an experienced shop could spend many hours hunting for the cause of your problem.

Be aware of that, if you take in.

Also provide them with the updated shop manuals for your version.

They are unlikely to have them.

Since recent model RHD are still rare in the USA, shops will have little experience with them.

But what they know about LHD should help.

Your Apexi controller should have a screen that provides some limited information of system components functioning.

For instance you can monitor the TPS function fairly easily.

 

There is a small drain plug on the underside of the gas tank. Easy to access.

Drain a bit and see if there is a lot of particles in the gas.

 

Fuel pump kicks right on when I jump the test pins, so it's my assumption that it is working as it should.

Secondary spark plugs appeared to be wet when I took them out, and then wet again when I took them out a second time. Not really sure how wet is wet, though.

When the car did run it felt like it was really rich at idle. I would hear constant little explosions of fuel blowing up in the exhaust. I found some posts on here talking about this being sorta normal, but my car seemed to be doing it a little more than was described. Car would also backfire every once in a wile in transient throttle circumstances.

I did briefly try to start it on spray buy gave up after like 10 seconds of cranking and two squirts.

I'll definitely check the gas if it's easy to get to like that. I would have figured I had to solve a riddle to get to it like with everything else.

 

If it hasn’t already been mentioned, you might also check the map sensor vacuum line. It has been known to pop off under boost and will cause the symptoms you’re describing. I’ve actually had this happen myself.

 

I don't think it had been mentioned. That's one for me to check tomorrow!

 

Back to the smoke test for random vacuum leaks.

The 1/2 inch vacuum line to the brake booster can pop off in a similar way.

FD are notorious for flooding, and staying flooded.

The Apexi might be tuned too rich.

The vacuum to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) could be cut off (perhaps from a leak or failing solenoid that controls that vacuum).

This will cause excess pressure to the fuel injectors.

I still think the best bet is something blocking your fuel flow. That might be your least unfavourable reason.

Your car could have been running for a short while from fuel in the pipes, before a clog cut of the gas supply.

Try the deflood procedures with the lead to the fuel pump disconnected back at the pump and with new plugs ].

[Buy yourself a box of plugs. You will be changing every 3500 miles anyway.]

Flooded plugs could also be from leaking injectors. So fuel will be leaking in as soon as the fuel pump pressurizes. You don't stand a chance.

 

Time for this. We put in 30 hours to finally get my car to fire.

 

Like me, you might get a face full of gas if you loosen off the plug with a full tank.

You can look into the tank by removing the fuel pump cover.

That may be a better way. You can look at the sock while you are at it.

Watch out, though, that the little machine screws for the fuel pump cover may be corroded in place (or snap off).

So siphoning out some gas might be a better option.

The fuel filter is a bit problematic to check. It is in a difficult spot to remove.

 

Its already been said, but Banzai is going to be your best bet in Northern IN. There's a lot of info in here, hopefully you get it sorted out quickly. If you need a part, reach out, I have a bit of random FD stuff floating around.

 

I looked over every vacuum line I could get at without taking off the upper intake manifold. Everything appeared to be well connected on any end I could see. The lines I felt also appeared to be in good condition. No visible dry rotting on anything, and nothing felt like it was overly stiff/brittle.

I was unable to locate a local auto-parts store that rented a smoke testing machine, or a fuel pressure testing kit.

I did another round of trying to de-flood it. When I pulled the plugs I could see fuel/oil on the secondaries again. A tiny bit on the primaries. I looked on the ground afterwards and there was more gas/oil than when I started, so it seemed to have blown a bunch of stuff out. I confirmed all coils where hooked up properly when I reassembled. Zero effect. Car still smoked and acted like it really wanted to start.

I shuffled some cars around today so I can mess with it on a lift later this week (car is being stored with a family member). I very very quickly looked for that drain bolt you mentioned, and I didn't see it. Hopefully it's obvious when it's in the air. Really hoping that I take it off and find something informative in the tank. I'd like to try that before I tear out the whole trunk liner and stuff.

If there is anything else that's way easier to see/test with it in the air please let me know.

 

It's dead center at the bottom of the tank.

BUT. if it's like mine, it is so caked in road gunk and probably some underbody treatment that it wasn't super obvious. It also didn't come off. I stripped mine and haven't yet figured out how I'm gonna get that tank drained. But also haven't really tried either. it's been in the air for a few years now.

 

Siphon the gas out the old way we did during the first middle east oil crissis. Get a length of 1/2" plastic tubing, insert through the filler.....and

Lifting the trunk mats to access the fuel pump cover is easy. You don't have to undo any of the trunk trim.

Just have to make sure the little machine screws holding the cover in place are not corroded. Usually they are not, but if corrosion is an issue inside the tank, then those screws might be at issue as well.

You should be able to get a fuel line pressure tester on Amazon and have it within a day or two.

A smoke test devise might be a little expensive.

You may have to get the UIM off and look at the vacuum lines underneath.

When there, check the little rubber plug on the fuel pulsation damper.

It may have rotted out and gas will be leaking onto your keg.

(Very dangerous.)

 

Here is a tech removing my fuel filter for replacement. It was easier because we had removed the rear axle assembly.

 

My friend sent me this clip asking if it was something to worry about.

 

The fuel pulsation damper is attached to one end of you fuel rail to smooth out pulses from the fuel pump. The little rubber tag on the top can rot away and fuel will leak out.





 

I pulled the hat off the fuel tank far enough that I could peak in there, and from what I could see the tank looked fantastic. If there is a drain bolt on the bottom this gas tank God himself would not be able to see it.

Probably just going to take it somewhere. I'm worried that if I tear too much into it the car will be apart for 6 months and then it will be winter again. I worked really really hard to buy the car and I really really want to drive it.

I'll add an update after I spend way too much money to find out what is hopefully a simple issue.

 

Hey man, just tuned into this. I think your issue is more 30+ year old car issue than it is a FD issue. You'll get to the bottom of it. If you pulled the hanger loose in the tank I'd try priming the fuel system and make sure it's not leaking out of the feed. There's an o ring on the pump and mine failed and would **** pressure there instead of properly pressurizing the system.

In the end if you know a shop that specializes in 7's I bet they will fix it quickly. Keep us posted! It's a beautiful car.

 

First thing I changed on my car was the fuel pump. A year later after the engine blew a corner seal, the shop found that oil ring at the fuel pump was installed bent.

I wonder why you don't have a drain plug.

Was the fuel tank changed out at some time?

I have heard of fuel tanks without the drain plug, though.

Whichever shop you go to, make sure they know about the coil thing.

And check their work regardless.

 

As you are likely aware by now, later JDM do not have the infamous Rat's Nest. Instead seven of the solenoids where mounted into a single unit (aka "Rat Box")

As your car already has an Apexi ecu, likely there has already been some smplification of your twin turbo and emissions controls.

For instance the Rat Box has been totally eliminated in my car.

If you still have a rat box and they find one of the solenoids has failed, consider replacing the entire rat box, rather then having it disassembled

This will have to come from Japan for about US$400.

If one solenoid has failed, others may fail soon.

 

As you are likely aware by now, later JDM do not have the infamous Rat's Nest. Instead seven of the solenoids were mounted into a single unit (aka "Rat Box")

As your car already has an Apexi ecu, likely there has already been some smplification of your twin turbo and emissions controls.

For instance the Rat Box has been totally eliminated in my car.

If you still have a rat box and they find one of the solenoids has failed, consider replacing the entire rat box, rather then having it disassembled

This will have to come from Japan for about US$400.

If one solenoid has failed, others may fail soon.

 

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/a...d_list_similar

 

Nengun is a pretty trustworthy supplier.

https://www.nengun.com/oem/mazda/n3f...-8MretzlEpHyiB

 

If it is unlikely you have obstructed fuel lines and it seems your plugs are still getting wet.

Try the deflood procedure again>

1. Remove and replace plugs with new dry ones.
2. Let chambers/housings air out overnight before reinstalling the plugs.
3. Check to see you have spark (careful with fuel fumes).
4. Do not touch the throttle at all.
5. Disconnect the elecfrical connector for the fuel pump at the top of the fuel pump cover.
6. Make sure that your battery is at full power (keep the charger on it).

Once the car fires, reconnect the fuel pump connector immediately. Have someone ready to do that.