There have been several threads on how to install a door lock / unlock to the FD, and I took it upon myself to take some pictures of my setup, which I've had the pleasure of repairing, about 6mo. ago...

The actuators I got them from here

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-010

They also have the Relay, and harness pictured to turn the Stock Alarm on/ Off for this to work concurrently with the stock alarm.

This image shows how the Actuator has to be connected to the Stock Locking Mechanism, to not interfere with manual operation.



The actuator is fastened via a metal bracket to the speaker housing (Plastic) and adjusted not to interfere with the Door Lock mechanism. It's a tight squeeze, you will have to trim some plastic off the actuator, and possibly off the door lock mechanism. to Make it sit flush in the door



This is the slightly modified door switch notice a bit of plastic missing from the edges..



This shows the Relay for opening closing the Door Lock Mechanism, it effectively (Electronically) turns the key for you to lock and unlock you vehicle, therefore allowing the factory alarm to do its job. There are only two wires going from the alarm through a grommet in the door into the car, this carries a 12V pulse to the relay and the actuator. Toggling the relay faster since it's an electronic switch and the actuator a fraction of a sec behind, but that's enough for the alarm to think you unlocked the door with a key.



Any specifics regarding wiring I'll be happy to help, although if you have no idea what a 12V Pulse, and a Relay are / do you might be in over your head here...

-DC

 

Thanks for the great info and pics. I was wondering about this since I want to put an aftermarket alarm in my car.

 

Had a question. You used relay to send pulse for OE alarm. What about actuator? Did you just parallel stock door relay otput to drive both doors at the same time?

Woud help if you can describe wiring a little. Or, if you can draw diagram will be even better.

 

Sorry I don't usually "Subscribe" to my own threads, so if you want clarification you'll have to Message me like Katit did Thanks for that !
The Actuators are run by the "Aftermarket" Alarm, that drives both dors to open, if you have a remote keyless entry that's not part of the alarm then use the output of that.

Basically if you look at the wiring of the Actuator there are 2 Wires Blue & Green, those come from the Alarm (Through a grommet in the door), the red one goes to the relay to disable the alarm, I don't remember weather it's NO or NC (Naturally open or naturally closed) when I test my circuits I do a lot of testing with a multimeter and banana clips aka(Alligator Clips)

I Found a diagram and am trying to recall from memory where what was connected



85 = Signal From Alarm (See Wire Coming from Green Wire)
86 = Ground
87 = Amermakrkey Alarm
30 = Factory Alarm



Black = Ground
Green = Signal to Factory Alarm
Pink = Signal from Alarm

 

Do you mean aftermarket alarm?

Here is what I'm trying to get for my car. I want aftermarket remote opener and use stock alarm.

In FD, right door has actuator, left one needs one installed. When I install it, do I power it straight from aftermarket remote or I need to use relay between them?

And then I guess you just drive driver door from remote and passenger door opens automatically just like in stock car when you open drivers door?

I'm trying to figure out what else besides actuator and aftermarket remote do I need

 

I Haven't looked much at the other (Passenger Side) Door because of the Fragile nature of that door and it's plastic parts. Maybe someone else can chime in here, but as I understood it once the driver side is "Activated" by the alarm the passenger side is triggered by either the "Aftermarket (Viper Craigen, Etc..) Alarm opened the door. the other side opened automatically ... by default

 

I see. You use relay to send pulse to deactivate alarm. Ok, I understand that.

But how do you power partsexpress activator? Do you just hook it straight to aftermarket remote or you have relays inbetween?

 

The Alarm sends a 12V Signal. Via Green and Blue Wire, this activates the Relay, it Switches Polarity to Open / Close the Actuator. That way also it Only deactivates the alarm on Open, and on close the fact that the Locking mechanism is moved instead via key, via actuator activates the stock alarm.

 

Hm. How is that happen? Does it mean that I can arm car by locking door while sitting inside? Is that how OEM system operates?


Btw, did you install hatch pop on your car?

P.S. I understood actuator and disarming stuff.

 

Yes if you remove ignition key, open door, close door, and lock latch (From inside or outside) it starts arming...

We have a Trunk ??
, no, I don't use it often enough, and I have no clear idea where I'd get at the cable to install an actuator...

 

Aha. And then you open door from inside and get alarm sounds

My lock in hatch not operating from a key, I will have to pull bumper to get to it. I will try to install actuator at the same time. If I will not fix actual lock then actuator will be even more useable. I use my storage space for work laptop and other stuff. Hate to carry stuff on a seat.

 

I got mine installed (Viper 571xv) and almost everything works except for the remote start.

http://www.amazon.com/VIPER-571XV-Re...0268359&sr=8-1

It's even got cheaper now!

I used different actuator. By mistake, I ordered additional omega actuator from partsexpress and it worked perfect. No modifications to door needed except for the 2 holes for screws:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-582

I unstalled it below door handle, below factory cables. There is no issues with cover and all works great.

As far as bypassing factory alarm - this viper provides (-) output that can be used directly against CPU2 (green/black door unlock wire) Whats great is that this wire provides (-) when you pop a trunk. So, everything functions fine.

The only issue I have is with arming. Well. It functions like a factory but I don't like it.

If you open door with key and then close it with key (without physycally opening door) then it won't arm second time. Same with keyless. If you open and then close using fob - it won't arm.

It's minor and I don't worry about it since this scenario not very likely.

Anyway, so far whole project under $100 including 3 relays, 2 solenoids and Viper system.

 

The original posts were a little confusing for me, so I figured I would post my own setup and diagrams.

Note, I used the "mini" 5-pin relays because they're cheaper and the bigger 30 amp ones are way unnecessary.

Instead of an aftermarket alarm, I'm using a simple aftermarket keyless system. It has lock, unlock, and trunk pop functions on the fob (which has a flip-out key blade).

The fob:


I drilled and installed a pass though on each side of the chassis (hidden in the door jam) using some 90-degree black nylon fittings which are threaded on one side. I figured this would help keep out any moisture.

The pass though (driver's side):


Here's how / where I mounted the Passenger's side actuator:


Driver's side actuator mounting, with the mini-relay:


Here's a shot of the ground (black) and "alarm pulse" (green/black) wires that I tapped into:


So to clarify, when the keyless unit sends +12v to the aftermarket actuator to "unlock", that power signal is used to flip the small relay, which sends a -Ground pulse to the green/black wire that disables the factory alarm.

I mounted the mini-relay to a small PCB and added terminals, here's the diagram:


For the trunk popper, I found the aftermarket keyless unit wasn't able to power these actuators without popping some resistors, so I added a mini relay to power this as well:


And here's the wiring for the trunk pop mini relay:


Note: depending on your brand of actuators, the wire colors might not be blue and green. Double check which one needs to be +12v and which is -Ground to actuate it in the correct direction (in or out, depending on how you mount it).