I'm exploring different options for digital displays and would like some input.

TL;DR I'm looking into an Audi gauge cluster.

I'll try to keep the backstory short. I've been using Speedhut gauges with a couple Spa dual gauges, all mounted in the original cluster. One of the Spa gauges died, and I figured I'd start looking into options for digital displays so I can get ALL the info in the cluster.

I've seen the one built by Undesiredshoe and the one Goeff Pritchett is working on, I love both of those, but Undesiredshoe doesn't plan on producing them and Goeff seems to be a couple years out still and I'm looking for some sooner than that. So I started looking into making some myself, although I have never done anything like this before (what a great idea, right?). I know I'd need displays and a PCB, but I wasn't sure what else or how to get the ECU or other gauges and things connected to it.

That brought me to OneGauge. They have a hub that runs through a PCB to a display, and you can connect OBDII or CAN to it, and you can connect several other sensors and things like fuel level, blinkers, etc. The box might be a little large for behind the cluster, but we'll see. But that solved the biggest hurdle that I could see. I've been talking with them and they found some round displays (4” and 2.1”) and a PCB that will work together, but they're still working on it. I'll run Haltech CAN directly to the OneGauge hub, and add all the other things from the idiot lights and fuel level, etc.

https://www.theonegauge.com/product/...oduct-builder/


Then I got to thinking, as much as I've always loved the original gauge cluster with the separate gauges, I'm not sure how much info I could really fit on them, as opposed to doing one big display. However, I've never been a big fan of single displays, they just never look like they belong in the rounded gauge hood because most of them are rectangular, or the ones that aren't rectangular just aren't big enough and there is so much wasted space. Along with that, I've never been a fan of having the brand name on the display, and they're not very customizable. I did find one from Brazil called Ghostdash, but their sizes don't really match up with the FD hood. Then I started thinking about OEM possibilities.

I've seen some of the Audi Virtual Cockpit clusters and with the curvature at the top, they seem like they would match pretty well with the stock gauge hood. I found whole clusters on eBay, but I've also found just the screen itself, and the measurement looks like it might just work. It covers basically the entire area where the original gauge holes are, almost perfectly to the far edges of the fuel level and speedo, and up just past the blinkers, but the top corners are angled so it would clear the curvature of the hood. OneGauge said they'd hacked OEM clusters before and that I could buy one and send it to them to try out.



I was thinking about just getting the screen, but the inner part of the Audi cluster would be good to use to give it some depth and a clean mount to the stock face. I think the part with the fuel level and coolant temp gauges might make it a little too long anyway. OneGauge told me I'd need the whole cluster, but it's pretty thick and I don't think it would fit, but maybe trimmed down, or if I can do just the display and the front piece, I think that would fit. And the display has a ribbon, hopefully the same type that are used with aftermarket PCBs. We'll see.

And then I plan to design the gauges similar to the AiM dash below.



If none of this works out, at least the stock looking digital dash will still work, so that's a plus. I found another display that's 4.2" but he said he's not sure whether that one would work.

Thoughts?

 

The ghost dashboard is what it sounds like you're looking for. We reached out to be a dealer since we're pretty sure we can make a plug and play solution out of it. Very simple device with a lot of fun packed into it

 

I've passed on that due to dimensions. The biggest screen is the one I was going for at first, but the two corners up top would be an issue with the gauge hood I think. Plus I'm not sold on the gauge options. Some are cool, but not quite what I'm looking for.

And the 10" screen isn't long enough.

They had me with the plug and play part though lol. That makes it super easy.

 

I bought a cluster on eBay early this week and got it tonight. Comparing the size against the stock cluster, it looks like it will be a pretty good fit. The Audi cluster is quite a bit thicker than the stock one, so I doubt it would fit unless the rear shell is removed. That's doable though because it doesn't look like it's required for installation.




The white ribbons are for the fuel level, coolant temp, and idiot lights, so I won't need those. But I will need to figure out what I need to tap into one or both of the other ribbons. I'm not sure if I'll need both of them or just one. I'm planning on checking with a multimeter to see where they go in the connector and hopefully find a wiring diagram for this car. Or if someone knows how to hack OEM clusters so I could use the whole thing, that would work too haha. Actually, that won't work because I don't plan on using the 'analog' gauges and I'll need those things to run to the screen. Anyway, the larger ribbon has 64 and the smaller has 13. If anyone knows how to identify these, what they're called, that would be great. It's difficult to research this stuff when I don't know the exact terminology. Or maybe if someone can identify what each board does, that would help too.




After disassembly I could see that the screen doesn't actually go to the ends of the cluster like I thought, and the frame around it takes a bit more of the viewable portion away, but it's still not bad. I do wish it was a bit longer, but it's sized pretty perfectly for our gauge hood. Looked at the smudges on the screen, you can see just how much is covered. It's not near as much as I thought.




The top corners being cut off is a huge help, it fits so well. I flipped it upside down because I found some aftermarket displays that were about this size but rectangular. If you slide the display down as far as possible, a rectangular display might work, but the bottom edge is at the very edge of the plastic already at that point. And that's assuming the display is 12.5"x5".

 

you got my attention! looking forward to seeing the results this is cooool!

 

Thanks Benny! I'm hoping to have it all finished up in the next couple months, well in advance of the Trash Talk meet up at SS this year so you guys can see it in person. The rest of the car will still look like ****, but at least this will be done hopefully lol.

 

There have been several developments with this project.

Firstly, I'm leaning towards not using the Audi screen. I haven't found any driver boards for the 64 and 13 pin ribbons on it, and I'm not sure what resolution it is, so using just the screen seems like a lot of work. I was still looking at using the entire cluster as an option, or at least the circuit boards and connectors along with the screen, and I picked up a pigtail with connectors from eBay so I could at least power it on. I was concerned about getting fuel level and coolant temp onto the screen, as those go to the two gauges on either side, but one of my RX-7 buddies saw it today and said the largest connector brings CAN from the ECU, so that would make that much easier. Huge win! Another RX-7 buddy that owns a Big O printed out the wiring diagram from AllData and brought it by. I was thinking the black connector with two wires was the power and ground. He told me that is fiber optic. Huge loss! lol This pigtail was cut out of a harness, so I know the fiber would have to be repaired/reterminated, but I'm not sure what I would send it to anyway lol. So using this display is looking more unlikely.


I bought a 12.3" screen from China two or three weeks ago and got it last week. I bought it from buy-lcd.com, made by Good-Display. It seems like it would work really well. It's slightly smaller than the Audi screen but still has the corners of course, and fits the gauge hood really well. The bezel is really small on all sides, and the screen is just barely wide enough for the Audi frame. Hopefully the active area is wide enough to cover all the way to the edges.









The problem is I didn't know that you have to find a driver board that has the same resolution as the screen, and this one is 1920x720. I didn't find anything for a bit, but I eventually found a couple on AliExpress that would work. I was looking for boards that had micro HDMI and USB-C inputs, along with a 50pin TTL interface for the screen (even though their data sheet says it's LVDS, but I can't find anything LVDS that's 50 pins, only 40 and below), and finding something that has all that and the proper resolution is apparently impossible, so I got what I could. These boards have regular HDMI and a 12V 2A input jack similar to on a laptop (5.5mm x 2.1-2.5mm). The ones that aren't for touch screen have a little switch board included. I bought a board for that, and I bought another board and screen that has touch screen. One of the reasons for touch screen is because there aren't dimming options for these displays when it gets dark, so Mike at OneGauge said what they normally do is have another gauge design that is darker and they use the touch screen to just swipe to the darker layout. The non-touchscreen board has a way to dim the screen, but if there isn't a way to wire it to the lighting wiring so that it dims automatically when I turn on the headlights, I'm not sure how I'd do it because the switchboard will likely be behind the dash, unless I can find a subtle place to put it. And I'm not even sure whether that switch is on the switchboard or the driver board.

I chose the touchscreen option on this link.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...Cquery_from%3A

This is the board I bought. You have to click on the option that shows just the board. The board itself seems to be exactly the same as the other one, but the cabling is a bit different since the other is touchscreen.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...Cquery_from%3A

I also bought this board because I believe it will work, but we'll see. It's not a huge risk at $22.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...yAdapt=glo2usa

The other things I've bought for this project is the 8GB Raspberry Pi, a battery backup for soft shutdowns that mounts to the bottom of the Pi, an active cooler that mounts to the top of the Pi, a 64GB micro SD card with 200mb write speed, which is the fastest I could find, an HDMI to micro HDMI cable (to go from the Pi to the driver board), a couple 12V to 5V converters with USB-C connection, and a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT so I can keep cruise control. I was going to use the stock speedo board but that wiring goes through the ribbon cable and would have been a nightmare to wire up, plus that board is rather large and space is valuable with all the different things I have to put behind the display. It would have been great to have the exact square wave I need, but the DD box seems to work well for people. The Speedhut speedo was putting out the same square wave as the DD box and it worked for me. I have to download TunerStudio, which is $70 IIRC.

A big hurdle at this point is how long it takes for Pi to get to the TunerStudio screen. PiDashes and OneGauge get boot-up down to about 20 seconds, but that's still way too long for me. I'm looking for sub 10 seconds, and I'd prefer closer to 5 seconds, but that seems fairly impossible. From what I've read, you can use BuildRoot and a kernel? I have no idea how to do either of those things though so watching more instructional videos are in order. But basically it's only installing what's needed, which shouldn't be much at all. I've also looked at using DietPi, which is free and already stripped down, but I think you can strip down even more. So more to come on this front.

The other thing I'm currently working on is getting the gauge hood made. I reached out to AI One Designs and Shane Drake, neither were interested. I bought a CAD from Shane that is a blank hood with no gauge holes cut out, no warning light openings, and the one he sent me doesn't have the cigarette lighter hole. While the cigarette lighter doesn't fit aesthetically with a digital gauge, I still use it occasionally for power. He's working on one with the cigarette lighter opening for me anyway. I am going to 3D scan the Audi frame and have someone mesh the two together and print that.

Then I have to figure out how to mount the display to the gauge hood, which should be fairly easy, hopefully lol. I need something easy with this project, at least one thing lol. The first display I got doesn't have a way to mount it, so I figured I'd make a frame for it and just tack mounts to it for the stock mounts. The touchscreen display does have some mounting tabs on the back, so that might be easier. My plan has been to mount all the boards to the back of the display, but there might not be enough room. Also, I could minimize install and removal difficulty if I keep the OneGauge hub, DD box, power converters, and Pi on the dash and mount just the driver board on the display, that way I would only have to disconnect power and HDMI to remove the cluster. Although I'm not sure if there is enough room for all those things on the dash either. It might be easier to mount them to the display.

More to come!

 

I got the AliExpress items about a week and a half to two weeks after ordering. When I first connected them, the screens didn't show anything. OneGauge said they typically need HDMI input to turn on, and that is true for these as well.


It might be hard to tell, but it's pretty bright at 1000nits. Both screens are. There is an option screen on the card I guess, because the card works on both screens and the same options come up. Luckily you can adjust screen brightness without going into the options, just by pressing the up and down buttons, but I'd prefer having it adjust automatically with the headlight switch or an ambient light sensor. More on that later. I was told I can change the aspect ratio on the Pi, so I can fill the whole screen. I'm also wondering if I'll be able to get this screen to turn on automatically when turning the key or if I'll have to use the switchboard. I really don't want to have to use that board at all.

One of the two same cards I got is already bad, I'm not sure if I did it or it was like that. One of the (what looks to be) power wires came out of the TTL end, and it's so small I'm not sure I can fix it so I'll order a replacement. The third card that was different doesn't look like it will work, but I'm really not sure.

I haven't connected the touchscreen portion of the other screen yet because it's powered by USB and I don't have the Pi going yet. But it's a bit bigger than the screen I'm planning to use, and I think it's the same screen that PiDashes sells.

I bought a 110v to 12v power converter today so I can do all this work at a table instead of in the driver's seat.

Back to the topic of dimming. I found an ambient light sensor that I thought would work, but supposedly it's not possible to dim a screen through HDMI, so it wouldn't matter what kind of dimming option I'd try. I also looked into using a relay triggered by the headlight switch, but I don't see how that would work either. I'd really love to get this to work though. Either option uses a few of the GPIO on the Pi.
https://www.uugear.com/portfolio/usi...-raspberry-pi/

I'm now looking at using an NVMe SSD instead of a micro SD card. I'm just looking for a way to get boot up speed as fast as possible, although this has more to do with getting TunerStudio running, and boot up speed is more dependent on running as little as possible on the OS. I'm also looking at SSD because I saw a video from a guy overseas that had two of the exact same SD cards I'm planning to use and both failed within a couple months lol. OneGauge told me that the SSD doesn't boot up much faster than the SD card, and that a battery backup prolongs the life of an SD card, so that might not be an issue for me anyway. Another thing about using this SSD is that the GPIO pins would be unusable, so dimming wouldn't be an option even if one would work.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...cIf7Zz0A%3D%3D

I started thinking about using an Arduino or ESP32 instead, but I guess they won't run an HDMI screen and there are no options I could use that are bigger than about 10" and I need the 12.3" to fill the cluster more.

I'm having a very hard time finding a place that can print large files, or just a place that will get back to me in general. I've only talked to one company so far and their printers were too small.

OneGauge said my hub is ready to ship, so I should be getting that soon.

 

I've made some more progress, although I'm still stuck on a couple final things. This is how the Raspberry Pi will be mounted, and the two power supplies (for the Pi and the UPS) on the right. The little board has the ambient light sensor. I don't know if that will work yet, but if it does, I think I'm going to mount it under the center speaker grille on the dash, or have someone print another grill with a hole just big enough for the sensor, that way it's inconspicuous. I was thinking about mounting it where I have the rear camera for the dashcam, where the rear window sprayer used to be. I want to print a cover for that camera anyway, and that way it would truly get an accurate amount of light, but I don't believe it is weatherproof lol.

I posted in a Raspberry Pi group about this project and a guy in NY offered to help. He helped me for a couple hours each day for three days, and we got an image written the second day but it wasn't quite right. We went back to add more for a new image but he hasn't been able to help since. We're building a root file and it's supposed to boot straight into Tunerstudio as the desktop. It doesn't do that currently though, and there are a couple other small issues I believe. It does boot into the terminal really fast though, within a few seconds, and that's on the SD card which writes 200mb/s. The SSD writes about 3500mb/s, and the current image is about 2500mb, so I hope my math is correct to get me thinking it will boot pretty much instantly. I think I'll need to add some way for the UPS to shut down after a certain amount of time keeping the Pi on so it can do a soft shutdown. I need to see if a dimmer will work, and if it doesn't boot instantly or near instantly, I'm going to set up a splash screen with the Mazda logo or something. I think there are one or two other things I need to implement in there too but I can't remember right now.

I still haven't found a place to print the gauge hood, but I think I'll work this piecemeal and try to scan the Audi piece myself, then see if someone can mesh the files, and from there I'll send that file to a few different big companies and see who can do it. There has to be someone out there that can. If not, I guess I'll be cutting my stock hood and doing some heavy fiberglassing and filler work. At least then I'd know for sure it would fit perfectly to the dash.




This is how it will all be mounted behind the cluster. I was going to mount everything to the cluster itself and run all the wires through a connector, but I figured that's more weight on the cluster that doesn't really need to be there, and this way I'll only need to disconnect the power and HDMI cable for the display itself, that's a super easy disconnect. Well, those and the headlight switch and cruise control switch. I was going to mount the OneGauge hub flat on that plastic piece where the Pi is sitting, but it's larger than I expected it to be (that's what she said). I was thinking it was going to be the newer version which is 5" long, but this one is 7". The good thing is it fits pretty well perfectly to the stock plastic, the vertical pieces of the dash are spread apart just enough to mount it there. Also, since the hub is 2" tall but 3" wide, it leaves a little more space/depth for the display by mounting it this way. The Dakota Digital SGI-100BT is mounted lower, mainly because I ran out of room for it, but it fits perfectly there. The only reason I have that is to retain cruise control. I rarely use it, but I definitely want to keep it. I ended up deciding to run those wires under the plastic to keep them out of the way. I've decided to try to use rivnuts in the plastic to make install and disassembly easier. Not sure how well it will work, but I used nuts and bolts on the DD piece and it was kind of a pain in the ***, so if I ever remove that, I'll probably try to install rivnuts there too. I'm awaiting some heat shrink for the CAN wires, then I'll run those through the hole to the upper right of the OneGauge hub to keep it off the Pi, so any excess heat from that shouldn't be a concern. The CAN board is just to the left of that hole. Once OneGauge gets back to me about where each wire needs to go on the hub, I'll finish all that wiring and it will be much cleaner. I'll post another pic once it's all finished. This hub has GPS that I'll use for the speedo and any other thing GPS related, and an accelerometer so I can see if any suspension improvements net a better skidpad result, which should make the additional $50 fee worth it for the possibly one time I ever use it, if even once LOL.

And the day after my last post, I disconnected the switchboard and the screen turns on and off with turning the key on and off, so as long as I can get the screen to dim, I'll leave that board disconnected.

 

I finally used my scanner and got one decent scan of the Audi cluster. I tried several more times after that to get a better scan and they were all ****. I tried so many different things with no luck. I have no idea what I did the first time to get a fairly good scan, but I couldn't repeat it. I'm going to try a few more times with different techniques, but this might be the only one I can possibly use. I only need the inner part of this, so I think there is enough here to work with. It obviously needs to be cleaned up, and some things cut away and parts of it adjusted. I had heard before that this scanner doesn't pick up dark colors very well, so I taped off the parts I didn't want to scan and sprayed the rest with white plasti-dip. That was a waste of time because it had no problem at all scanning the entire thing, and the black background that I used lol.


I downloaded the TS Dash image and tried it. The site says it won't work with Pi 5 yet, but someone on here said they knew of others with a Pi 5 that got it to work. It didn't work for me though, so I downloaded DietPi and installed that. That was still a huge PITA, for someone that has never dealt with Linux. I finally got it all installed and got a few other software programs I needed that were preloaded on the Pi I guess, but now I'm having an issue even getting TS to start. I'm having a hard time figuring out which commands I need to put into Terminal to get it started. I found a page with instructions, but some of them are a bit different than what I've gotten to work so far, so I assume the rest of the instructions are more of a suggestion as well.


I installed LXDE desktop because it seems like the most lightweight and the fastest.

At the bottom it says this OS doesn't indicate support for Pi 5. They're working on a TS Dash image though, so I might be able to use that later.

I need to add some kind of fan control, because the fan isn't even kicking on. I think I'm going to add a small fan to blow air across the whole Pi assembly though, that will come on with 12V ignition. I need to set it to where the Pi starts powering down when I turn the key off, and the UPS should shut down after the Pi is powered down. Supposedly it's smart like that lol. I need to try the screen dimming stuff, but I already know what I need to put into Terminal for that, hopefully it works lol. And I need to get TS to autostart, once I get it to work at all.

 

which scanner are you using? might want to try a talc spray or foot powder spray. helps with black and shiny

 

I have a Creality Raptor here. It's great.

You can send me your bezel or I'll rent it out to you for a week if you want to give it a shot.

 

Creality Lizard.

I sprayed it with white plasti-dip so I could remove it later easily. Didn't make a bit of difference lol. It scanned the black parts as well, when I was hand scanning in geometry mode. When I switched to texture and using the table, it mainly only picked up the white part.

I ended up getting a decent scan today actually, thank you though! Turns out all I needed to do was watch some instructional videos lol. I ended up using the table after all, and used Texture instead of Geometry, and it worked much better, and on top of that, it got almost only the part I wanted. It's still not perfect, needs some cleaning up and filling here and there, but it'll work. Using table scan instead of hand held worked so much better. I also hadn't been taking multiple scans and aligning them and processing it, so it wasn't even finished.

I still need to get the files meshed, do you do that kind of stuff? I downloaded Fusion360 for personal use and for some reason it's acting weird. It says it's open, but it doesn't actually show up on screen. I wonder if my laptop isn't advanced/new enough to use it. I also have zero experience with CAD at the moment.

 

This is an amazing project and I have contemplated something similar myself many times. I think you are going the right direction for sure.
1st, How big of custom prints do you need for this project? I have a printer that can do 420x420x430mm, which should be plenty large enough for the FD cluster size, that id be willing to let go of because I haven't done a project that requires that large of a print in a long time, and my Bambu X1 carbon has been a gamechanger for fast accurate prints. If you are not interested in buying it itself, I wouldn't mind attempting to print any parts for you that would fit.

As for the information itself, OBD2/canbus is def the best route, and I believe that you said above you are on a haltech ecu, so we have the same or at least a similar setup. I have a small OBD2 device called a LUFI XS That sits mounted in my car that tells me all of info that is needed to drive the car EXCEPT Fuel level, because I believe the Haltech ECU's need a separate sensor to read that. I have been thinking that If I can get an accurate fuel reading via OBD2, Then I can connect some kind of android tablet and make a cluster out of that, That way you could semi easily have all your gauges and still have access to maps and anything else you want on the tablet right in front of you at the same time, Using an app like torque or realdash, or something similar.

 

Did you have any luck becoming a dealer? A plug and Play kit for the FD would be awesome.

 

Sorry, meant to include this in the response so it would notify you.

 

Thanks! If it hadn't been for my gauge dying, I wouldn't be doing this right now. It never crossed my mind before. That's pretty close to the size I need, it might still work if it's printed at an angle. The FD cluster is apparently 487.51 x 310.44 x 118.72. I wouldn't mind buying it, but I haven't even used the printer I bought about 3 years ago lol (it's just an Ender Pro 3 IIRC). I've never used any printer for that matter. I have zero experience doing all this. But I would definitely take you up on that offer to print it, just let me know what I owe you. And of course I'll pay for the materials on any test pieces too. Now I just need to find someone that can clean up the files and mesh them lol, I've not had much luck with that yet.

Yeah I have OBDII connected directly to my android head unit and I use either Torque or OBDLink. https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext.../#post12623945 And I also have everything but the fuel level going to it, I have every gauge I had in my gauge cluster, and more, except for fuel level. I'm actually using it to view all the info I need while I drive the car with no gauge cluster until I get this project finished. My tuner said I could run the fuel level to the Haltech with a pullup resistor, so that could work too. The funny thing is the only gauge I ever really paid attention to was the fuel level gauge, and what's even better is it was hardly ever accurate lol. I've run out of gas a couple times just because the Speedhut gauge was always hit or miss, at least for me. A tablet would be pretty cool because you could get it for cheaper probably, and I think it should have the auto-dimming feature, assuming the sensor is exposed once it's mounted.

 

I just realized today, I should call this the Turanga Leela project, or just Leela. I should change the name of this thread.

 

Pretty excited about this update. I've been working with someone in England to mesh the files together and make the necessary changes, and he's just about finished with the file.




It's been a bit confusing because there are some optical illusions between the headlight and cruise buttons and the holes for the warning lights. And my scan wasn't great so he had to recreate the Audi portion from scratch, and then deciding how far it should protrude from the surface, if at all. But I think this version looks great. It will be two separate pieces so if the display changes, I can get the center portion changed and printed by itself without having to print the entire piece again. He's going to add holes for threaded inserts too.

So now that this piece is so close to ready, I guess I need to get moving on writing the image for the Pi and designing the gauges. Although EFIAnalytics is supposedly writing the image, so hopefully they get that finished soon and I can design the gauges. Although I've also thought about seeing if ChatGPT can design the gauges the way I want lol.

 

Yo, Speed! Looking good amigo!!

 

Thanks buddy!

I started using ChatGPT last night to try to design gauges for TS. It wrote some code, I'm not sure yet if it will work.

 

I uploaded the files into Craftcloud and ordered them from Loop 3D Additive Manufacturing in the UK, printed with SLS PA12 Nylon so it's stronger and heat resistant. I should be getting it the 2nd week of July, so turnaround isn't too bad. He gave me a test piece to print as well to make sure it would fit on the screen without showing any dead spots.

And I bought some heatserts from McMaster Carr for pressing into the dash pieces, so it'll use machine screws instead of the ones the stock pieces normally use that eventually break. Then I can make a mount for the display to the dash pieces.

I started designing the gauges last night and got done with most of it today. It's not exactly what I want, but it'll work for now, and pretty much all the info is there. I used the test piece to get them all laid out. The problem I'm having now is getting indicators on there. It's a bit confusing and I still haven't figured it out.

 

I've been tinkering some more with the gauges and I think I'm finally getting where I want to be, which is more similar to my original goal. It's not exact, but this is about as close as I can get. I could probably get it a little closer, but I'm pretty happy with this. The two outer rings are a light blue color, and the two bars that climb with the digits are color coded to match with the respective digits, i.e. the inner bars are a light gray and correspond with AFR and boost, and the outer bars are white and correspond with speed and RPM, but it's really hard to tell through these pics. It's actually not super easy to tell even on the laptop lol.

I still need to add the indicators, blinkers, etc. I've found some images for those but I'm not sure yet if they'll work. And I'd like to move the Mazda logo upwards a bit but you only get so many options with how the image is placed (centered, stretched, and tiled), you can't move it up incrementally.

 

I believe I'll settle on this design. I changed from the white lines because I didn't like that the boost/vac gauge on the right sat half way up at 0, so it would read funny if I left it that way. Since I added a fuel level gauge on the left and battery gauge on the right, each side now has six gauges stacked on top of each other to get it to look this way. I was able to find all the warning lights and indicators that I needed, and the white and blue bulbs are for water injection pump and solenoid. I have to get with OneGauge again about adding the check engine light somehow. I thought I was going to be able to have TS light it up another way, but it looks like the only way is wiring it into the OneGauge hub.

If I want to add the font, it has to get added onto the Pi itself, and since I'll most likely be changing that OS from DietPi to an image to boot directly into TS, it's a waste of time to add it right now. Although, I'm not sure if I'll be able to add it later since it won't boot up like a normal OS. Either way, this font is OK for now.

The gauge hood is supposedly still on track to be delivered this week. Once I get that I'll make the mount for the display and hopefully they'll write the image for TS Dash soon so I can get this project wrapped up.

 

Getting close to the finish line. Excellent work!