Choose a hi power head unit. Wattage they all advertise is peak, so it it states 50w x 4ch then its 20-25w/ch. Eclipse pointsorce works well cause it's a component set but built like a two way speaker. The tweeter is in the middle but not attached. Crutchfield gives you the rear adapters free with the speakers. Non Bose will most likely fit 5.25" in front and 6.6" in the rear with adapters. 4" in front with the Bose box. Connecting with the Scosche adapter you would use the factory speaker wires. The spaeker would fit without any modification. A built in EQ tot he head unit will fix the sound stage.

 

You know, if you actually saw true power readings of head units you would probably laugh or be frustrated. A regular Kenwood / Sony for example might net 14.5 watts per channel for example, while a so called "high powered" head unit would probably net something like 19.1 (with much higher distortion) although they were advertised as 50x4 or something.
In other words, simply buy good quality stuff and don't get caught up in watts advertising, because that is all it is. There is no governing body requiring car stereo manufacturers to be honest about wattage...they can and do say whatever they want.
If you actually wanted components you will really need a dedicated amp to power them to get any benefit out of them.

But since YOU said you wanted a simple system, obviously you should simply buy a set of coaxials...I am not going to try to convince you to do something you didn't want in the first place.

Once again, your Bose system will sound better than a "simple system", but I am assuming you have a non working or probelmatic system (you never actually told us either way).
So for the utmost simple system, install 4" coaxials (style with ear tabs, not sqare frame) in the existing Bose (front) enclosures and be sure to caulk up the gaps. Then you can use the existing wiring: Check for continuity from the speaker output leads from the dash to the door panel harness. Then for simplicity make a patch harness from the female tabs and run it through the port and directly to the new speakers...There are many other ways to do this, but this is the simplest, quickest.
Then you can simply add a new deck using an off the shelf dash adapter harness...This whole process will take about an hour or two at the most, depending on your skill level.
Obviously you will not have much bass at this point, but using the existing enclosures (correctly) will easily make 4" speakers sound much larger...very similar to a 6.5". However, make sure you use a driver that responds preferrable down to 40-50 hz unless you plan on adding a subwoofer.
I will not go into any detail about your other (subwoofer) options until I hear back from you on this thread.

 

I have one of these Adapters for sale if someone wants it.... $40 shipped.

 

Hey guys, I've got the adapter Crutchfield recommended but it doesn't match the wiring diagram it came with. Coming out of the harness the diagram lists 4 wires (ign/12v/ant/grnd) but there are five -illum/dimmer/12v/ign/ant. I'm going with the labelling on the wires but i'm a little concerned that there is no ground. Is there supposed to be? The head unit has a ground of course.

Also, what is that little black plug in there? And for the antennaes do you just use a 2 to 1 male to male adapter to hook em up?
thanks a ton, hope people still read this.

 

I think the wiring diagram answered my question. The wire labeled as "amp turn on" coming out of the small adapter actually has nothing to plug into on the car side! WTF is that bs? So I can pull that out and connect it to the wire so helpfully circled on the diagram that should be it. Sorry, I'm a little slow.

 

The amp turn on lead is just that - there is a relay in your car that turns on all 4 Bose amps. The signal from your deck will trigger this.
The factory deck uses what I will call "antenna ground". However, it is better to go ahead and make a chassis ground with your new unit because for some reason, FD's have poor grounding (when compared to similar Bose equipped cars, ie 300ZX, Maxima).

 

The FD actually has two grounds, if I'm not mistaken. The antenna is one, since it works off of a ground signal (if that's the appropriate term). The other ground is a wire that clips onto the back of the radio chassis. Technically, this would be the chassis ground. The RX-7 does not incorporate a ground in the wiring harness for the radio. This is probably so that the system doesn't pick up any frequency noise through the car's electrical system.

Joe

 

So do you really need the anttena adapter from Crutchfield? Going to oder parts tomorrow. Went to Audio shop and the guy said that they no longer make the OEM Amplifier Integration v.4 #142CMA02 that everyone is using and can still get from Crutch. But to use this part SLC4 SPKR LEVEL CONV 80W http://www.scosche.com/scosche_carau...&CategoryID=36
$29.99
This was according to the New Scosche product manual.
Any thoughts?
TIA

 

so the wave system is considered the "rear" R/L channels? is there anyway to setup (with an aftermarket head unit of course) the bose wave system on the subwoofer channel?? the reason i ask is because i was wondering about the possibility to KEEP my bose setup (rear wave, front speakers, center channel) and ADD a set of rear speakers to the open slots, powered by an external amp (or even just run it off of the rear channels of my my head unit) for more sound output? i wonder if anyone has done this yet, and if so how the rears sounded blended in with the bose setup.

my other question is regarding the center channel. i have a tripple gauge pod that im about to install on top of the center channel speaker. what are people doing in this situation?? any way to relocate it? drill some perforations in my gague pod? just disconnect it? the purpose of the center channel is to reflect off of the windshield glass and add to the sound stage missing due to the front speakers being so low on the door pannels. it helps fill in the sound stage and the system sounds muddy when i cover it up with my hand. anyone got a good solution for retaining it??

 

As far as the extra 2 speakers, I think you can do it, but I am not that technical and it would obviously depend on what deck you buy.
I just did a deck conversion on my Bose equipped touring and didn't bother with adding speakers. I believe my deck has a way to separately control the woofer, so I guess you could do it...

As far as the center speaker, have you thought about installing the gauges on top or at the bottom of the deck, in the spare din slot? Or have you decided to go with some double-din setup?
I did the conversion primarily because I wanted to install the gauges there, instead of going with other locations. I am in the process of doing the gauges, I stopped because I decided I was going to make a carbon fiber panel to fit under the duble din opening to give a nice trim to that space. I'll cut the holes in the panel to fit the deck at the bottom and the gauges at the top. The stickshift gets in the way of the lower din slot and placing the gauges in there would make it difficult to see them properly, because, on top of the stick, if you have your arm on the steering wheel, it contributes to block visibility some more.
The flip side of that is that your view to the stereo is partially blocked. I have an iPod adapter and I have learned already that if you want to find somethink you're better off stopping altogether, there is too much to read and too much to browse to make it feasible while driving...

 

unfortunately i already have the center speaker gauge pod.... just trying to decide what to do with the speaker now.

 

I finished my install this afternoon. With my scsosche harness. I noticed that the blue amp wire was installed in the smaller connector. I checked out the pin out from the car side, and I installed it on the big connector, and now the amp powers up!

 

are one of my rear amps blown?
I can only get full sound out of the rear subs by turning the adapter rear left or rear right up, but not both at the same time or the volume will lessen.

 

I'll be tackling this job soon. So should I get the Scosche CMA-02 or 142C4MA02 or is it the same?

 

I just did the head switch using a Bose Mazda unit from a 626.

You can do an e-bay search for rx7 radio harness -- it will return 0 results, but will give you a store listing for the harness for like a penny plus shipping. I bought this (less than $7 shipped) and it pluged right into the car harness. Now, the real challenge is the part that plugs into your new headunit. If you have that, then you only have to use the wiring diagram to match up functions and away you go. The headunit harness cost me about $20 but I didn't shop around either.

Hope that helps.

 

Too much trouble. I'd rather pay for a less hassle plug'n play model.

 

for the oea-4, adapter, using a paper clip, remove the blue/white wire from the scosche small connector and insert it into the position on the large scosche connector that corresponds to position 1j (lg/b wire) on the car side harness connector. Scosche should have inserted a wire in this position but didn't and you can avoid wire-tapping your car side harness if you move this wire over. If your receiver has ONLY a wire for antenna OR amp turn on rather than one for each, connect the scosche blue wire to the blue/white you've just moved together and connect to your receiver's blue wire. If your receiver has separate wires for amp turn on AND power antenna, do not connect them together or you may hurt your receiver. In that case connect the lg/b wire for amp turn on and the g/o wire for power antenna. if any one speaker sounds like crap, double check the scosche crimps, they messed up one on mine.

tom

 

I just bought a 2002 miata bose unit on ebay. I'm gathering the harness wiring and can't wait to have a decent stereo again! I plan on keeping track of the install and post any pointers I pick up along the way.

Terry7

 

 

Okay I read all of this thread before I tried to install my Radio. The ant. wire is it the one that plugged into the factory all by itself the thick ground looking one. Am i supposed to wire the ground from the new head unit to a new chasis ground. I have both ant wire and amp wire from my new head unit. I connected the blue/w wire to the blue/w wire and nothing happened. I had my ground connected to the thick black wire that I now think is supposed to be the ant remote wire. So I ground the head unit connect me ant wire blu/white to blu/white and then connect the big black amp wire to what? the blue/black from the scosh Im afraid of messing it up....

 

where is the amp located on the 93 touring rx7 im trying to give the lg/b wire acc power so my radio will work but i cant locate the amp????

 

The amps for each speaker are next to the speakers themselves. and the center speaker amp is in the where your right elbow sits in the center console.

the problem I am having is that i hooked up everthing correctly, gave ign power to the amp solenoid and my stereo still does not work, what am I missing??? . there is no noise coming out of any of my speakers and the relay works (double checked). also i have power to the head unit it self.

 

Alright, after checking a couple of reputable audio install places in town, and getting ridiculous quotes of $300+ to install my Kenwood 6.1" double din screen just because it "has a bose system", can someone link me to the Schosche adapter that will be plug and play with the stock FD wiring? And am I correct in assuming that it'll be just like wiring any other deck in any other car, with the exception that the "amp power on" wire from the headunit wiring will go to the same one in the Schosche adapter in order to turn the factory amps on?

 

I bought a car that had it installed but the person who had it installed an aftermarket deck. There are wires running to the back, is there anyway to hook this aftermarket deck to the bose stereo system (I bought it again).

Specific cable/adaptor I can use? There are two clips on the bose stereo that I need to attach any help would be great.

real1st

 

I need a Schose too. Help me out here!