First off this isn't on my 7, but on my '95 SC300 with a 1JZ swap. I recently ditched the stock ECU and wired in a Haltech E6X. My issue is when locking down the timing, when you rev the engine the timing gradually advances, similar to what you'd expect if the timing wasn't locked. The timing is locked at 10 degrees BTDC and stays there at 1000 rpms, however if you rev the engine up to 6K, the timing is 20 degrees BTDC according to an advance-adjustable timing light. I've tried another E6X just to be sure and the results are the same. I know the output edge is correct at Falling - the car won't run when set to Rising.

My theory is the crappy stock ignitor is having problems with the signal from the Haltech. The stock ignitor has 6 channels and has problems with current limiting to the coils when run in waste spark - requiring very tight gapping on the plugs to avoid blowout. I'm going to ditch it in favor of 6 LS1 coils and I'm hoping this will resolve the timing drift as well. In the meantime I've changed the map around to reflect the timing increase I'm seeing, so there's no potential damage to the engine. Is there anything else I can look at that may cause this issue?

 

I've done many of the same setups both 1/2JZ with or without VVTI. using that ecu and never had any problems with the stock igniter or ignition systems in relation to timing.
How are you checking the timing. The only proper way to do it is to remove the coil and place a sparkplug cable between the coil and plug. Any other way will give strange timing.
If you want you can PM me and I will give you the setup to run that motor.
You can also try http://forums.haltech.com/ for all your haltech related questions.

 

Thanks for the reply. I followed the FSM procedure for the timing and used the green wire loop in the ignitor connector for the inductive pickup on the light. Running the engine with the first coil pack off is going to be a PITA...do you just verify timing with the injectors off or actually get the car to idle with the coil pack unbolted?

Other than this the car runs very strong, much better than before. My only other issue is the idle motor, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't...this is with the motor set up as a "bipolar", I'm not using the 12v feeds. I'm thinking my motor is going out. I'll send you a PM, I'd like to see how you're going about running this engine...I don't need timing or fuel obviously but it'd be cool to see your ignition setup.

BTW I tried signing in on the Haltech forums but I never got an activation email like the site said. So I tried the only other place I'd trust with Haltech stuff.

 

You cannot check the timing the way the factory describes it in the manual with a normal timing light. Your timing is not going to be correct. It's a very simple procedure to remove the #1 coil. I guess removing the motor is much easier if something should go wrong from incorrect timing!
Post your igntion setup and are you using the front or rear cam sensor. Also is it the later or earlier 1J motor. The crank senor is complety different from each other.

 

LOL you misunderstand me...removing the #1 coil isn't difficult, what I'm getting at is finding a spark plug wire that will go onto the coil AND doing it well enough to allow the car to idle...I'm not sure of any plug wire that will plug into the bottom of the coil. Please elaborate on how you do this. Trust me, I don't want to pull an engine because of timing, hence this post.

I'm running off the rear sensor. Early engine, no VVTI. Ignition setup is as follows:

Trigger angle: 60
Tooth offset: 12
Spark mode: Direct fire
Spark output: Constant Charge
Spark edge: Falling
Constant Period: 2.0

Trigger setup:

Trigger type: Multitooth
Teeth no: 24
Trigger input Internal Reluctor, Gain 4
Trigger edge: Falling
Home input Internal Reluctor, Gain 2
Home edge: Falling