U can try this base map

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7192

thanks hIGGI

Just side not about coils under UIM.

Today i had to take apart UIM and coils to change hose clamp on rear iron and i hate the way i have it mounted.....it might look good, but access is problematic.
On previous setup i had FD UIM on 13BT and i could have changed all 4 injectors without removing UIM or TB, let alone any hose or clamp....

Now its pretty packed there and for repairs in paddock it will be uncomfortable.....

I built a mount today. I would like to later on build a nice C&C part to hold them. but here is my temp fix.

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+386.jpg
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+387.jpg
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+388.jpg

There is about 1 inch of space between the coils and BAC under the TB. Now if I can find some short wires. maybe a set of FD ones will fit

I tried FD wires and they are bit short, FC wires have to do for now untill i can afford to have set made (Racing Beat will make you set if you send them exact lenghts required......)

ok thats good to know I still have a set of cosmo wires I will use until I can some to fit.

What did you do with two coolent nipples on the lower water pump housing? Im thinking about maybe hitting them with weld and block them off. I might just end up running a hose loop on them. I totally forgot about them until today when i was under the car getting ready to build the turbo oil return line.


http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+396.jpg

Few FD wires will work, for rest u can use cosmo ones..

For first runs I used stock FC water pump and now i have EWP......

Regarding coolant nipples - i hate myself for not taping rear iron coolant nipple for threaded connection (which i am using like coolant feed for turbo), lately i found my hose clamp there was not able to keep it leak-proof tight and its not easy accessible...

I ran the rear iron coolant nipple to the top of the water pump housing. I was thinking about running a FC water pump and housing later on.

Mazda wires won't work with the LSx coils. A set of wires for an LT1 (yes LT1, not LS1, as in a 94 or so Camaro or Corvette) will work in a pinch. They'll be too long for a custom fit though. You can get new plug terminals and cut the LT1 wires to fit and terminate them with the new ends.

Well I guess that out for starting the car soon. lol one more thing to order and 10 more days pushed behind. sure am glad living in japan I have access to so many stock GM parts.

I think I will cut off the boots for the stock cosmo wires and push them all the way in and hot glue them in place

I got these coils from you, and I cant believe up until now you didnt say anything about needing to use LT1 wires with these coils

you guys that have never had to goto a Japanese parts store and get parts will never understand. In the states you walk in to almost any parts store and just tell them what you want.

In Japan when you goto a parts store you have to take the title for your car, and they use the vin and body to only let order parts just for that car. it is hard as hell to get anything else. it not like in the states where you have autozone or orielys on every other block.

Europe is pretty much the same, thats one of the reasons i am re-using stock rx7 parts whenever possible because i have them :)

New terminals and boots can be fitted to your existing wires, if they're in good shape.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-46052/?rtype=10

To be fair, the information regarding these coils is all over this forum and the rest of the internet. I understand your frustration, but is every shop expected to send an encyclopedia of information with every part they sell?

just checked with summit they are out of stock until the 28th so that means I would not get them for at least 2 to 3 weeks.

45* boots http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-46069/

90* boots http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1

straight boots http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-170064/

Yeah, you can't expect vendors to be psychic. I will say that Chris answered my rather blundering questions in surprising detail, and reminded me of a number of things I hadn't thought about. He also said not to hesitate to contact him if I had follow up questions.

I too understand the frustration, but it's not as if there is an instruction manual that we can all follow. This level of modification doesn't follow a single, well defined path. And vendors have very little way of knowing if there customers are seasoned racers or neophytes who don't know where to plug in there ECU...

I cant seam to get the TPS connector you sent to fit on my TPS. Is there some Ninja trick to it?

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+054.jpg

here is my old connector.
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+056.jpg
The tps has 4 wires, which wires do I need to use with haltech? The haltech harness only has 3 wires.

looks like the wires are the same from 13b to 20b

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g...3BCosmoTPS.gif

The connector I sent does look to have the wrong tabs. I may have grabbed the wrong connector out of the parts bin. I'll send you a refund for it through Paypal. You can still use it if you don't mind trimming the locating tabs off the sensor.

The Hitman diagram is wrong. Standard Mazda wiring has the Br/B wire as ground, the Br/W wire as 5V ref. The B/R wire is the signal out. This was discussed in another thread a while back.

As you can see on my engine, i have stock TPS wired to PS2000 this way :
Looking at it , standing in front of car.

1 - upper wire - white (Signal)
2 - second wire - black/white (Sensor Ground)
3 - unused
4 - orange (5V)

http://rx7cz.net/pics/IMG_0607.JPG

got a couple more questions

which out put do I use for tach and what should the setting be?

how do I wire in the AFX wideband I have the NTK sensor? is there already a calibration for it?

which wires are for the bac that is under the TB? I though it might be the some of the green ones labeled idle but, in the pfd for the OMP looks like those will be used to control the OMP.

Thanks

DPO 1 is the only output that will run the tach. Settings should be 12V pull-up, 50% duty, and probably 6 pulses but may be 4. Play with the pulses until the tach reads correctly.

Wire the output from the NTK to the O2 input. Enter 0v = 9 and 5v = 16 in the calibration page.

Use one of the DPOs along with one of the gray/red switched 12V to the BAC.

I am using stock FC tach and i have it wired to DPO3, no pullup, 50% duty cycle, 4 pulses per cycle.
Everybody says it will work only at DPO1 but mine is working at DPO3 fine...

Wideband i have wired to one of the AVI's and checked calibration against Wideband maker.'s instructions...
I havent used O2 input as suggested by C. Ludwig as i have occupied it by Haltech's 4 wire narrowband O2 sensor. In the past, i have had wideband installed only for tuning and rest of the years used only narrowband O2 for closed loop controll.

Thanks. your right the hitman one is wrong. I used the meter on mine today
Top TPS Haltech harness color
1 - Black/Red upper wire - white (Signal)
2 - Brown/Black second wire - black/white (Sensor Ground)
3 - unused
4 - Brown/White bottom wire- orange (5V)
bottom

That's it.

Well finished up the wiring and cant get it to start up.

When it during cranking the haltech rpm read out never goes above 40 rpm and keeps going back to 0. shouldnt it be like over 200?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IseG3P69uRQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZBZ2uZF7jA


I have the cas wired up this way
Home grey / black
Yellow home + to cas Green
green home - to cas black ( the pdf I got from haltech said this wire should be white/black ) but my cas does not have a white/black only a black

trigger grey
yellow trigger + to cas red
green trigger - to cas white


why does the injectors read 4.4 even with the engine off?