ps 2000 install in Cosmo
 

I'm starting the wire harness install for my project car. How do I wire up the ignitors and coils to the ps 2000 harness? The rest of the install looks strait forward.

Are the coils the same as the FC? I've seen the 3-rotor coil packs, but never the 2-rotor Cosmo packs.

today I was laying out the harness getting ready to start building the connectors tomorrow. got a couple questions.

what wires do I use
1. to control the OMP?
2. control the profec solenoid?


I think I am going to end up mounting the ECU in the glove box.

Im planning the O2 sensor at the end of the down pipe right before the cat pipe and running the sensor wire under the drivers seat. there is already hole there where the cat temp probe was.

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+193.jpg

lol a little cleaner
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+194.jpg

Send me an email and I'll send you a PDF on the OMP. ludwigmotorsports at insightbb.com

The boost solenoid had 2 wires. One gets switch 12V+. The other gets the DPO of your choice.

Never got a response from Haltech on the ignition wiring.

I have the 2 rotor cosmo coils here, they are basically identical to FC coils, just different connectors.
I dont have ignitors for them, but what he can do :

a) run either FC igniters or 13B cosmo igniters (if he will crack them open and see how they work, but it will be very similar to FC ones.....

b) convert to direct fire (4 individual coils - whenever its from 13BT or 13B-RE and either stock or aftermarket ignitors )

Well pulled out the 13B and put a 20B in. I would like to use the stock 20B coils and ignitors. I will bring a set home tonight and take them apart and post some images.

If you have access to the factory Cosmo schematics that would be even better. Even if the text is in Japanese.

LOL I remembered to bring the igniter home to take some pictures.

The JC Cosmo 20B cars have 2 igniter boxes both have same part number
NF01
131300-1801
12V

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+231.jpg

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+232.jpg

the 3 wires on the side
Black = C2
Green = C3
Blue = C1

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+235.jpg


on the top row left to right
Brown = +B
Red = IGT
Tan = A-LGD
Orange = -B
Yellow = TAC
Gray = IGF

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...-2/Picture.jpg

If your setting up a 20b, your best bet is to get a couple of haltech 3 channel ignitors to use with the cosmo coils. The coils are supposed to be very good but the ignitors are not. The cosmo ignitors use a strange setup that has a toggle system. It doesn't just receive a signal to the channel that needs to fire like a normal ignitor, instead it gets two signals, one to fire, as well as a second signal to say where to fire. I was told that it has been done years ago with haltechs help but, I think they're too rare these days for haltech or any tuner to waste their time on. I worked out how to wire them only to find out that no one in Australia could tune the car and haltech didn't support them. In the end I had to install the haltech ignitors which were not very expensive anyway. Before you waste your time with them ask whoever is tuning the car if they know how to setup the cosmo ignitors. I think I still have the info from when I wired my car if you get stuck. Mine doesn't use the twin turbos but I think I still have the rest of the info to get it running.

Thanks for the idea about getting 3 ignitors. I think that I am going to go with LS2 coils with ignitors built into them for a cleaner install. I got some on order with C. Ludwig.

yeah the more read about the cosmo's coils they use a signal from the CAS + rpm to send one singal to the ignator then the ignitor fires the 3 coils. 1 to 3 ratio. Much more easier to just plugin a LS2 coil and be done with it. LOL now I need to fab up some mounting brackets for them. I saw some mounted under the UIM and TB makes for a clean install but I wonder about heat.

yeah the haltech can't fire the cosmo ignition, its too weird.

it basically works like the FC trailing, where there is a trigger signal, and a switching signal.

except on the 20B since there is a LEADING and TRAILING. the ECU sends a tach/trigger signal, and then to select rotor 2 or rotor 3 it has a toggle.

so to fire L1, the ecu just sends the tach signal. to fire L2, the ecu sends the tach signal + L2 toggle. for L3 its tach + L3 toggle.

the ignitor also sends a confirmation signal back to the ecu. the info is in the FSM/wiring diagram but its rather useless if you can't use the hardware

the coil is pretty normal, its just power and then rotor 1-2-3.

Im thinking about building a mounting plate under the TB and mounting the coils there for a cleaner install.

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+289.jpg

With stock coils its tight, but possible.....just measure carefully :)

http://rx7cz.net/pics/coilplate.jpg

I got my coils today. but looking at them I can see no easy way to mount them, so that they looks nice. the mounting points on the coils are in a strange location and put them in a strange angel. the FC coils look mounted nice your picture maybe I need to cut of the mounts and zip tie them place

Don't do that!

Flat aluminum plate and a bunch of these. Easy and clean.

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/117/.../9376kc1ws.gif

just kidding about the zip ties I think hot glue would be better.

lol

Do you sell those type of bolts? I went to 14 hardware stores today here in okinawa with not finding anything like that.

well trying to figure out where I am going to mount these coils. I like the stock coils they are in a very clean package. I ordered GM LS/2 Truck coils with the ignitor built in.

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+306.jpg

found a piece of alum scrap that is the exact length of the rotor housing .... is it fate?

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+307.jpg

hmmm
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+308.jpg


http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+309.jpg

There are plenty of them on. ebay http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_...All-Categories.

oh they are rc car / boat engine mounts. I will try a rc hobby shop

I get them from Mcmaster Carr. I can send you a bunch if you can't find them.

I found some yahoo japan $8.50 each
http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/j...ion/s165725865 $100 for 12 mounts
LOL this suck if I have to order them from the states my car is going to be down at least 10 more days.

I wish you would have said something about needing them when I ordered the coils from you.

If I say you "need" this, then someone else comes in here and says they did it with baling wire and duct tape, you didn't need to spend the money, and I ripped you off.

Another, easier to source option, is to use fuel hose or silicone hose as the rubber damper section of the mount shown above and a bolt through the mount. Or use aluminum tubing for a hard mount.

Sounds like your Cosmo survived the tsunami

yup we did have tsunami here in okinawa, but nothing like they had in mainland japan. I had some friends they lost everything they just got away.

yeah I understand about not asking if I need them. just venting I wanted to drive the car this coming weekend. heheh fuel hose, hot glue and zipties maybe some bedazzler beads too lol
did make some progress yesterday.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...2#post10515672

is there any base maps for 20b? just something to get it started and cruse around not boost.

20B CAS
stock fuel injectors
ls/2 coils
internal map sensor

U can try this base map

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7192

thanks hIGGI

Just side not about coils under UIM.

Today i had to take apart UIM and coils to change hose clamp on rear iron and i hate the way i have it mounted.....it might look good, but access is problematic.
On previous setup i had FD UIM on 13BT and i could have changed all 4 injectors without removing UIM or TB, let alone any hose or clamp....

Now its pretty packed there and for repairs in paddock it will be uncomfortable.....

I built a mount today. I would like to later on build a nice C&C part to hold them. but here is my temp fix.

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+386.jpg
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+387.jpg
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+388.jpg

There is about 1 inch of space between the coils and BAC under the TB. Now if I can find some short wires. maybe a set of FD ones will fit

I tried FD wires and they are bit short, FC wires have to do for now untill i can afford to have set made (Racing Beat will make you set if you send them exact lenghts required......)

ok thats good to know I still have a set of cosmo wires I will use until I can some to fit.

What did you do with two coolent nipples on the lower water pump housing? Im thinking about maybe hitting them with weld and block them off. I might just end up running a hose loop on them. I totally forgot about them until today when i was under the car getting ready to build the turbo oil return line.


http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+396.jpg

Few FD wires will work, for rest u can use cosmo ones..

For first runs I used stock FC water pump and now i have EWP......

Regarding coolant nipples - i hate myself for not taping rear iron coolant nipple for threaded connection (which i am using like coolant feed for turbo), lately i found my hose clamp there was not able to keep it leak-proof tight and its not easy accessible...

I ran the rear iron coolant nipple to the top of the water pump housing. I was thinking about running a FC water pump and housing later on.

Mazda wires won't work with the LSx coils. A set of wires for an LT1 (yes LT1, not LS1, as in a 94 or so Camaro or Corvette) will work in a pinch. They'll be too long for a custom fit though. You can get new plug terminals and cut the LT1 wires to fit and terminate them with the new ends.

Well I guess that out for starting the car soon. lol one more thing to order and 10 more days pushed behind. sure am glad living in japan I have access to so many stock GM parts.

I think I will cut off the boots for the stock cosmo wires and push them all the way in and hot glue them in place

I got these coils from you, and I cant believe up until now you didnt say anything about needing to use LT1 wires with these coils

you guys that have never had to goto a Japanese parts store and get parts will never understand. In the states you walk in to almost any parts store and just tell them what you want.

In Japan when you goto a parts store you have to take the title for your car, and they use the vin and body to only let order parts just for that car. it is hard as hell to get anything else. it not like in the states where you have autozone or orielys on every other block.

Europe is pretty much the same, thats one of the reasons i am re-using stock rx7 parts whenever possible because i have them :)

New terminals and boots can be fitted to your existing wires, if they're in good shape.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-46052/?rtype=10

To be fair, the information regarding these coils is all over this forum and the rest of the internet. I understand your frustration, but is every shop expected to send an encyclopedia of information with every part they sell?

just checked with summit they are out of stock until the 28th so that means I would not get them for at least 2 to 3 weeks.

45* boots http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-46069/

90* boots http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1

straight boots http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-170064/

Yeah, you can't expect vendors to be psychic. I will say that Chris answered my rather blundering questions in surprising detail, and reminded me of a number of things I hadn't thought about. He also said not to hesitate to contact him if I had follow up questions.

I too understand the frustration, but it's not as if there is an instruction manual that we can all follow. This level of modification doesn't follow a single, well defined path. And vendors have very little way of knowing if there customers are seasoned racers or neophytes who don't know where to plug in there ECU...

I cant seam to get the TPS connector you sent to fit on my TPS. Is there some Ninja trick to it?

http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+054.jpg

here is my old connector.
http://infini-fc3s.cyberosity.com/ga...icture+056.jpg
The tps has 4 wires, which wires do I need to use with haltech? The haltech harness only has 3 wires.

looks like the wires are the same from 13b to 20b

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g...3BCosmoTPS.gif

The connector I sent does look to have the wrong tabs. I may have grabbed the wrong connector out of the parts bin. I'll send you a refund for it through Paypal. You can still use it if you don't mind trimming the locating tabs off the sensor.

The Hitman diagram is wrong. Standard Mazda wiring has the Br/B wire as ground, the Br/W wire as 5V ref. The B/R wire is the signal out. This was discussed in another thread a while back.

As you can see on my engine, i have stock TPS wired to PS2000 this way :
Looking at it , standing in front of car.

1 - upper wire - white (Signal)
2 - second wire - black/white (Sensor Ground)
3 - unused
4 - orange (5V)

http://rx7cz.net/pics/IMG_0607.JPG

got a couple more questions

which out put do I use for tach and what should the setting be?

how do I wire in the AFX wideband I have the NTK sensor? is there already a calibration for it?

which wires are for the bac that is under the TB? I though it might be the some of the green ones labeled idle but, in the pfd for the OMP looks like those will be used to control the OMP.

Thanks

DPO 1 is the only output that will run the tach. Settings should be 12V pull-up, 50% duty, and probably 6 pulses but may be 4. Play with the pulses until the tach reads correctly.

Wire the output from the NTK to the O2 input. Enter 0v = 9 and 5v = 16 in the calibration page.

Use one of the DPOs along with one of the gray/red switched 12V to the BAC.

I am using stock FC tach and i have it wired to DPO3, no pullup, 50% duty cycle, 4 pulses per cycle.
Everybody says it will work only at DPO1 but mine is working at DPO3 fine...

Wideband i have wired to one of the AVI's and checked calibration against Wideband maker.'s instructions...
I havent used O2 input as suggested by C. Ludwig as i have occupied it by Haltech's 4 wire narrowband O2 sensor. In the past, i have had wideband installed only for tuning and rest of the years used only narrowband O2 for closed loop controll.

Thanks. your right the hitman one is wrong. I used the meter on mine today
Top TPS Haltech harness color
1 - Black/Red upper wire - white (Signal)
2 - Brown/Black second wire - black/white (Sensor Ground)
3 - unused
4 - Brown/White bottom wire- orange (5V)
bottom

That's it.

Well finished up the wiring and cant get it to start up.

When it during cranking the haltech rpm read out never goes above 40 rpm and keeps going back to 0. shouldnt it be like over 200?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IseG3P69uRQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZBZ2uZF7jA


I have the cas wired up this way
Home grey / black
Yellow home + to cas Green
green home - to cas black ( the pdf I got from haltech said this wire should be white/black ) but my cas does not have a white/black only a black

trigger grey
yellow trigger + to cas red
green trigger - to cas white


why does the injectors read 4.4 even with the engine off?