this seems to be the answer to all ECU problems "there was nothing wrong with your ECU". yet when I got mine back the engine ran great and started on the first crank. I guess the FedEx flight fixed it. Next time I have a problem I will FedEx it to myself to see if that fixes it. I don't know why they can't just be open and tell everyone that sometimes there are problems with electronic equipment and we will fix it for you and sorry for the delay. this is all most of us want. we want to know that all the wiring we did was right and not still have questions about what was wrong and if it will surface again. sorry for the rant. I still would not use any other ECU at this point.

 

that was funny tim! i did recieve my haltech today but considering i wasnt told that they were gonna charge to FIX NOTHINg i didnt get a check made out so now i need to run and get one made for 92 bucks and it said it was fully bench tested and nothing has been done becasue the ECU is fine?????? doesnt make any sence? so well wish me luck guys becasue i am gonna go in there and mess with my car! hopefully it F*****n starts

later

 

So, what's the news? Does any of you guy's haltechs work now?

 

um blue i will have to reply monday definatly to see what happens becase my car is locked up at the shop and well i can only get to it monday so expect either a very happy email or a pissed off email with haltech in the street! lol =)

lata

 

On a better note I started up our latest engine project this weekend. It is a Haltech fuel injected 13b peripheral port motor. I had to almost rewire the car to find a bad electrical short. luckily this is a race car so the wiring is very basic. after a few minor problems it started up long enough to determine the exhaust note was much to loud to run for long. neighbors from two blocks away were calling the cops. but at cranking speed I was reading 560 rpm every time. I hope your system is back up and running this week. let me know how it goes.

 

ok first of all i am still getting 180 cranking rpms and now i went to check my injetor wiring and that was all screwed up but i supposdly fixed it an now i have a fucken fuel leak? thi car keeps fucken up one thing after anther but anyhow i am going tochek my ignition sumtime this week, i think i might have to rewire the coil packs again this thing i become a nightmare, **** if anyone wants to buy it i am willing to sell it ! ?????? but i will be back to keep u guys updated so hopefully i can figure out this mess!

lata

 

I am sorry you are still having problems, but the wiring can sometimes be very difficult to get right. What I tend to do when I am faced with this type of problem, and like I faced this weekend with my friends car. That is to make the system as simple as possible. so I only connected the basic parts of the cars wiring and tried to start the engine. then go back and add the rest of the systems one at a time and test the engine after each. I fixed my problem I had with the short in this car. now I will add back all the other parts of the wiring harness. Make sure all the connections are tight(I like to solder all the ignition and injection wiring) and only connect the basics to get the engine to run. If you need a wiring diagram I can provide one. I have a ladder diagram for my car or I have a modified Haltech diagram with color codes for the second gen coils and CAS. like I mentioned before these systems are not bolt on items and take a high degree of knowledge to trouble shoot sometimes. call or email if you need any help.

 

hey guys i got good news and bad news, tim you helped me solove my problem thankx sooo much! now heres the good news i found out that one of my wires from the crank angle sensor was loose and didnt make too much contact, so in other words is was speratic contact! but i did go through every system and found out sum injector wires were confused too, but i fixed that! ok so i did all that and the car started up! not right away it took about 2 mins of cranking!, now heres the wierd thing the car isnt revving out smooth and well it like cuts out?????? and one other thing i gave it gas and let off and it died, wierd? but then i disconnected my o2 sensor and the car staerted up right away w/o even touching the peddle, it drove nice but i found out my turbo was on fire! it was glowen RED i think it was running lean! now i used the benny map that u gave me tim im not sure which map does what but if you can tell nme it would be great, and why my car was shooting out big *** flames? even though its glowen red which there for would say its rich im confused? but anywho plus i shut the car off and it took forever to try to start it? what can that be? also is there any sort of breather for the motor? becasue it had alot of crank case pressure? and is it good to run no thermo? , becasue i have alot of pre4ssure in the colant system too??? this thing is haven too many dam problems! but it did start which was great! sooo i dunno man

 

the MAP named Benny maybe the MAP I made for the peripheral port motor(I don't have a copy of the stuff I sent you here at work). check that you have the correct map sensor selected in the setup section(I don't know what you are using). if it says 1 bar then this is the PP MAP. If you look at the map settings there should be another map for the 2 bar sensor with the same fuel and a slightly different ignition map. make sure the O2 sensor is wired right and then just run the system in open loop and check the readings of the O2 sensor. the O2 sensor should not be a factor in startup only on cruise, so check the wiring. the map from my car is the 81101(I think this is the name from memory) this map has more fuel and a little less timing than the other maps. the turbo will glow red when it is running and making boost. check and make sure you have the timing zeroed and make sure all the plugs are in good condition and verify with your timing light that all plugs are firing. now comes the fun part tuning. the crank case should be vented and I have found that the turbo cars can have alot of excess pressure from boost bypassing the apex seals, especially at low revs or with old motors. vent this into some type of catch tank and check and drain regularly.

 

ok heres anther quick question why is the car not starting up after i shut it off when it ran like a sec ago? and then like the other night i went in there when the car is cold and it wouldnt start? i mean this is confusing it starts but then it doesnt? its throwing me off track.......by the way is it good to run no thermo stat? or what? and heres the wierd thing too to add to it whne it did run it wouldnt give me a smooth range in the rpms i mean it was really rough when i gave it gas like in the 2k-5k range it felt like it was missing......

any help would be great thanks

 

these "problems" all sound like tuning issues. one of the hardest parts of the tuning is to get the engine to operate smoothly in all ranges. you need to datalog or watch the EGT ot AFM at the rpm ranges and boost levels and make corrections to the map. If the engine is lean or rich it can act like a misfire. the starting issues are age old questions, on my car it starts easily when warm and it takes a minute or two to start when stone cold. Our other car seems to start very easily, so I am not sure what to tell you. change some of the startup map settings and see how it works. I have also found that like the OEM setup the rotary engine likes to be warmed up to operating temp before being shut off otherwise it tends to flood and not restart. so try to run it till it warms up before turning it off if possible. As for the t-stat just removing it will cause problems. If you want to eliminate the t-stat you need to tap and plug the bypass in the water pump housing and make a plate with a hole in it to replace the t-stat so there is a pressure drop across the pump(gutting the t-stat works OK). but there needs to be some restriction in the t-stat housing for the water pump to work correctly. keep working on it and you will see the results.

 

I got my car working -IS A BEAST.
It never drive that strong and powerful.
Now, my maps are very very rich, till I 'll get to wideband tune it.
I can't imagine how fast will be, once tuned.(already kicks ***)
rx7 IS THE ****

 

lol sweet masterol, **** sorry if i mispelled it, but anyways awesome yea iknow how that feels becasue i finally got mine running too, but anyways tim yes im gonna put the thermo back in and well the car will be going to chicago for some wild tunning, so i should have it by the end of next week knock on wood! but dude the car rocks from how it was running i myself cant wait to kill sum pistons! especially my buddys chumpy supra TT hahahha

lata

 

My car still refuses to start. I am having the same problems as fastassturboII. Car floods easily.....I am getting frustrated

 

Is there a mark on the MAP sensor to indicate how many bars it is? Also, my tps is readign "FUALT" but when I mat the pedal, my road sped go's up breifly.... Mabey I am still having fuel porblems? What is the final work on fuel rail/reg setup? I am running the SX fpr......

....help....

 

hey adrian, does your car start at all? becasue after i re -wired my connections and put sum gas in the car lol i had a problem with that, the car actually started up right away after like 20 seconds of cranking it over, but like i said dude this thing is rich as hell! the maps we got are super rich so my turbo was molten red! so and the car didnt start after i shut it off, so my guess is that the maps need to get tuned or need to be leaned out! so i would re check your wiring and ignition especially! oh by the way as your question about the map sensor im not too sure i know i have a 3 bar map the stock tps will always give u a fault no matter what mine does it all the time at idle when the car isnt started.....but otherwise man this haltech thing is nutz, but my car is goin to a shop to be tuned properly casue im sick of this hassle ;-)

 

Adian,

I have not used the stock TPS. I always use the one supplied with the kit, usually a flashing value means the sensor is not working right. this should not prevent the engine from starting. I would first verify that you have all the wiring at least for the haltech totally correct. Check to make sure the coils are sparking and it sounds like you have plenty of fuel. After you are positive everything is right install some new or cleaned plugs, charge the battery, and give it another try. You can also try to lean the start map, but most rotaries start better when they are alittle rich. If you have everything wired right it should start. I don't know what else to tell you, sorry. Maybe a call to the guys in Australia can get you some more things to check. good luck

fastass,

I am glad everything worked out for you and if the dyno shop is good your car should run great. I hope Adrian can find his problem. keep in touch and let us know how it runs when its done.

 

sup guys and tim i owe u soo much people like u deserve alot you have been soooo much help i mean i cant thank you enough but yes that is a definate i will keep you guys informed on the next stage after the car gets to the shop so tomorrow morning i gotta hall it on a trailer down there and see what happens from there, as of adrian buddy keep your head up man, it took my alot of time and i guess no patience but i honestly had it if i didnt blow up the car! so re-check everything dude honestly go and rewire your injectors and your ignition! thats what i found to be the problem and dude go and rewire your CAS........ this all solved my problems! and the car will not startunless you have a fully charged battery i can tell you that with experince bro, and you realy need to LEAN out those maps BADILY!

keep us informed also bro

lata

 

Well, time for an update....

I am using the Haltech TPS. It just fualts some times.....very strange. Anyways, that is not my concern.... the reason my car won't start is because I AM NOT GETTING SPARK! I popped the timing light on and it gave me one flash and then NOTHING, on all foulr leads! (yes, I know how to use a timing light) I have zeroed the timing the right way and am stumped as to why I am getting such a spperattic spark. When my car was runing, it was doing the same thing but I was getting more sparks, now it is just the odd one or two sparks, then nothing.....

ANY IDEAS????????? I AM OPEN TO ANY THOUGHTS!!!!!!!!!

 

I know we have gone through this a couple times, but lets try again. first all wiring is good and correct? no RF interference(no solid core wires or non resistor spark plugs) CAS pick up wiring routed away from plug wires? when cranking are you watching the engine data output page of the Haltech software? if yes then is the RPM reading correct? or is it reading 150-180 rpm? have you sent the ECU to make sure the fix for the internal reluctor has already been done( maybe a phone call to the tech guy and he can show you what to look for, my understanding is that there is a resistor that needs to be removed for certain cars but not all). if all this has been checked and verified and there is still no spark or intermittent spark then maybe a coil pack or both are not in good condition. try a known good set and try again. if this still doesn't work then maybe contacting the shop you bought the ECU from and have them double check your install and possibly try another ECU to see if yours is not right. otherwise you have me stumped. if I was at the car I might see something, but I would first start with the wiring and make sure everything is absolutely perfect. also how did you "zero" the timing if your spark is intermittant?

 

ok guys im back, well my car is still at the shop getting dynoed and tuned and by the way i hear adrian your haven sum problems could it be if im not mistaken a bad power your getting, you should check your power and grounds to the packs maybe thats why its sparrtic and check to see if your settings are right in the ignition menu! but i need to see if my **** will ever run again it has its days , so good luck im sure tim can solve it **** he did for me! thankx again boys

 

I have been told by at least 4 people that 180 rpm's is normal for rotary engine. the stock cranking rpm is 250. I am certain it is my "weak spark" .......now what could be the cause.....

 

All things listed above are potential problems. if all of these are in good shape then I am stumped, sorry. Also I have 2 Haltech equiped cars and both crank at between 450-600 rpm and one carburated 13b that cranks at about 800 rpm. I have found the 180 rpm was my key to a problem with the ECU. you can also take out the CAS and spin by hand(or drill motor) to see if ECU will go past 180rpm(this was my final test that confirmed there was a problem with my ECU). otherwise I would contact original company you bought it from and have them help you. they should be your contact for returning or advanced trouble shooting.

 

ok well heres a question.....can it be low compression? becasue afterall it takes compre4ssion to ignite the fuel......so in other words maybe our syptoms are low compresion? i talked to a buddy of mine hes actaully mexican lol nothen againest them but he cracked me up by sayen i should spray WD40 to clean up the housing and the apex seals from the spark plug holes...well its funny but the wierd part is i rembered when i tried to get my car started i did spray carbon cleaner in the intake track and the car actually trired to turn over better.....so now i myself is getting confused about this....so can it actually be a carbon build up in the internals......

hit me up guys

 

you are right the engine does need compression, fuel, air ,and a spark to run. I have to assume that the motor either was running before the Haltech or is new. By all means make sure the engine is sound before even attempting this type of install. If you have not already, check the compression, but if the spark is not steady then it wont run right. a little oil in the spark plug hole can sometimes increase the compression by making the apex seals work better.