yes, definately check the ground or even use a jumper cable from the engine to the chassis as a quick check. I think there are a couple of guys with the same problem posting questions about this subject. It is not a consistent problem, some engines have this problem but not all. hope this solves your problem.

 

ok well i ran a wire from the engine to the chassis and well i am still haveing the problem! i even put new plugs in it, god dam it! i dunno what to do anymore, i know i have a good ground what next? the sledge hammer is going to come out soon! but i need to stop myself.........

 

did you send the ECU back to Haltech? If not call them and send it to them. let them know ahead of time what the symptoms are. I think you need to have them fine tune the reluctor that picks up the CAS signal. call them and give them your info. the ignition signal should be very stable even at idle.

 

ok tim i am sending it out today , even though dale said that there is no resisitor to be fine tuned he said as along as i have an rpm read out then i should be fine , well why is my car crank and cranking and wont start even with fresh plugs in it!, i man **** i got spark and i got fuel alot of that! so i dunno man i am gonna send it in so he can check it out but otherwsie i dont know what the problem is why cant my car start up right away with ou caking it 6 years!

 

I went through the same thing when I bought my last system. it would only read the correct rpm occasionally. I called Haltech in Dallas and they gave me the same line, "if you see something it is working right". but the car would not start it or would only try to start and if it did fire it would not stay running. I finally called the tech guys in Australia and they were the ones who told me that they sometimes have to remove a resistor on the board for different crank angle sensors. they said most of the time it works with the resistor but sometimes it needs to be removed. I sent mine in(to Dallas) and when it came back it work like it was suppose to. I didn't change anything in between. I was lucky that I also had another ECU from a friends car so I could test the system. With his ECU it would start up and would work fine, but with my unit before the modification it would not work. I had the same symptons you are having. after the ECU was repaired I would see between 600 and 1000rpm while cranking and the car would start up like it should. The Austalian guys are very good and know the system like the back of their hand, but the guys in Dallas sometimes are not as good especially with the rotary engines. I am sure they will do the same repair they did to mine and it will then pick up the rpm corectly. if not send the tech guys in Australia an email or a phoine call telling them the guys in Dallas can't seem to help you. this has helped speed up my local service. good luck and let me know what happens.

 

ok tim , dude your great yea i sent my dam computer in and theyshoudl get it over night tomorrow so we'll see i talked to dale and hes liek i'll check it out he says there swamped but hes liek ill chek it out dude why arent they cool at all? i mean there is definatly a problem it just seems like they dot ant business! but yea 'll keep ya posted and see what happens but tim i wish i can give ya smthin man youve helped a great deal , and well adrian i woudl check to see whats up with your computer maybe your haven the exact same problem?

 

I am going to call Tmrw too!

Keep us posted and THANKS SOOO MUCH Tims!

 

your welcome guys, The guys in the US are always swamped. I think they could use a few more people in there shop, maybe even an east and west coast shop also. the guys in Australia are a little bit easier to talk to but the guys in Dallas should be able to fix it. I think the guys in Australia have alot of experience with rotary applications and maybe Dale's specialty is not RX7's. while your waiting for the ECU take some time to make sure everything is buttoned up.

 

lol ok tim liek i said again thank you and i apperciate te help but i will keep you guys informed on this topic of course, i am sure this messgae file should help alot of people who are confused and dont know what to do so once again thankx and i will check up on other stuff on the car to make sure its straight

later

 

Wow! Dale @ Haltech USA finaly started to give me some good help/tech support when I called Fri.... Tims, he told me he had never heard of anything that you described happening with E6k's and rotarys. He does however, have a E6k in his ROTARY pickup and he told me he would switch my E6k for his to make sure it was working ok..... Also, when they test our ECU's they use a CAS from a 13b.

I'll keep you'all posted

 

dam adrian, that is crazy but it seems to me that tim is correct there is no way in hell when u crank on your rotary that the rpms shoudl be 160, to start it! it should be between 600-1000 like he said i mean **** go look at your regualr piston car man its sumwhere around there to sart it up, i mean i dont know too much about this ignition **** but it looks to me as of common sence , so i jsut hoipe dale says my computer needed sumthin becasue if he said it is ok, well its not becasue mycar would of started right up man, but it hasnt **** ive done so much to this dam thing and its still fucken sits in the garage not starting so it suckx i hope this problem is fixed if he says its not the haltech then **** i am gonna sell the dam thing and go with a wold 3d becasue i am not gonna put up with 1500 spent on a mangement system if it isnt gonna work right!

thankx

 

I don't know what Dale is thinking. I sent my E6K in to him in November or December last year with the exact same problem both of you guys are having. it was at their shop for a few hours and back at my house the next day. I installed it in the car and it started the first try. If in doubt give the guys in Australia a call ask Justin(I hope that is his name it has been a year and I am bad with names) the guys in Australia seem to work with alot of cars that use the OEM crank angle sensors or crank pick up systems. I know the frustration of building and installing this stuff and it not working. be patient it will work and work well.

 

ok tim i talked to dale today and ari and they both said that it is normal to have 160-180 rpm when u crank the car! and **** the weird part is adrians computer was used in dales rotary pick up and it worked out just fine! so now what i mean **** he didnt get to mine yet, but adrian was haven the same probs as me now if he says mine is all good i am gonna be pissed becasue i dont know what else it could be! i mean **** i got fuel i even have spark and i got compression what am i missing dam it! i sooo pray its the dam computer! please be **** faced!

 

thanks for the update..... I didn't have a chance to call Haltech today. Well, I am going to REWIRE my ignition with new hardware and use Dale's setup instructions too. Hopefully it works out fine!

 

ok adrian, um well if there is any possible ways you could email thsoe instructions to me that would be great becasue for some sort of reason i am guessen this is what we are gonna be doing um i dunno what to say or do anymore i guess you and i are gonna have to experiment! so heres my email its fastassturbo2@aol.com if you dont mind i woudl greatly apperciate it but tim man both ari and dale said that 160-180 is just fine with the haltech, which is starting to make me go crazy!

lata

 

I can tell you that on both f my cars I read between 600 and 1000 rpm while cranking. 150-180 is not right. have Dale send his computer to you and try it on your car. Or better yet call the guys in Australia(I know it is about a $10 call) and then they might be able to tell Dale what he needs to do. I have spoken to Ari before when he sold me aE6Sthat would not work right and he seems to know little about Haltech other than how to connect the wiring. when we had problems his guys and himself were no help. Unfortunately I had to make several calls to Haltech in Australia to get my system to work. if you have the wiring done correctly and you still are seeing the low rpm while cranking with a fully charged battery then there is a problem with the computer. I'm sorry about the problems but this is the identicle problem I had including the fact that the US tech guys don't know what the problem is.

 

yes tim i agree with you 120% man they are just given me a hassle and i am gettign really sick and tired with it, and if dale says my computer is fine then i should be able to get his and try it becasue i am really getting sick and tired of running around for the past how man years tryen to get this thing running! so i will give australia a call and tell them that!


thankx for the info man i know your getting sick of this too but i am glad your helpen me out i apperciate it soooo mcuh man!

thankx again and ill get back to ya

 

I know all this is very frustrating. the computer will work and the car will run eventually. these things are not a simple installation by any means. people make it sound like all this stuff just falls together, but sometimes it doesn't. I have been through this and more when I first decided to use an aftermarket EFI system on our first race car, so be patient and think about how much fun the car will be when done.

 

I almost forgot this but one of the other tests I did was to take the CAS out of the engine and plug it into the ECU and spin it by hand. this would still only show 150-180rpm while I know I was spinning it much faster. could rig up the drill motor and turn it at the speed of the drill motor. this was when I knew for sure the ECU was not working. again good luck

 

ahahhaah that is a cool as idea, hmmm well when i get my computer back maybe just maybe they'll fix it now if i get it back and it sstill does the same thing man i think i will try that experiment! but yes it has been frusterating and i dunno what to do or say but just wait for the dam thing to come back! soill keep ya informed on how and what is going on

thankx again

 

ok tim watz up man, i talked to dale@ haltech and i also talked to ari they both told me its normal to have a read out from 160- to even 220rpms! now dale says that the haltech is fine! i am getting very annoyed and they both said that my computer is fine now is there any possible way u and i can exchange ecus so that i can see exactly what my problem is or if you can call me and we can actually talk about this????? if that is cool shoot me an email and i will give ya my number..........so now adrians computer is suppodly is fine also which is fucken wierd so now i am gonna run through everything and all my wiring and see whats wrong but i know for sure everything is wired right! so email sumtime at fastassturbo2@aol.com

 

If I had my ECU I might do it but right now my ECU is missing(very long story). Make sure everytrhing is correct and your battery is charged and try the ECU when it comes back. I don't know what to say, but I hope that they actually fixed it and are not admitting to it. I was told there was a resistor(i believe Justin called it a "pull down" resistor that needs to be removed for some cars, not all). I could not see were any work had been done to my ECU but it work perfectly once I got it back. try the CAS spun by hand trick and if it still read 180 rpm then you know for sure there is still a problem. I am not sure why they don't want to admit that this problem exists, they may not want to pay for the shipping or are afraid it will hurt there sales. I'll send you an email and we can talk later.

 

What day did Dale get you guy's Haltechs? He's had mine since Monday and still hasn't looked at it. Keeps telling **** like 12 other ones are in front of me and he has no help.

 

i sent mine out overnight last week thursday so he shoudl of recieved mine friday and i guess he has mine done i havent gotten it yet though......

 

Good luck guys, because you need it.
Mine was in their office for 2 weeks, before they got to work on it. Now I just got it back, and I'm up to see if works.
Of course, they say that was nothing wrong with it.
DAN