ok guys i think i figured out my problem , and the reason why the car will not start is becasue of my ignition! so now the question is how do i exactly time the car? if i can get exact procedures it would greatly be apperciated.......i would liek to know how to setup the ignition page with what variables and what to do on the crank angle sensor and also on the essentric shaft how the timimg is becasue my car is dumpen fuel and its not wanting to ignite it, eventhough i know i have spark and fuel its just not at the right time! so please help me out either on here or email
fastassturbo2@aol.com

thankx guys!

 

for CAS install set the e shaft at 90 degrees before TDC. this means from TDC you will turn the e shaft counter clockwise 90 degrees. then insert CAS with the pointer on the P/U coil inside the CAS. set the ignition setup to 70 or 75 degrees and timing lock on and engine should start. check Hitman for picture and more details. here is the link http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm

 

ok tims i got the car running but it takes a while to start her up like a few mins and with playing with the gas peddle and then it descides to start, i also noticed if i hold it at a certain rpm it likes to sputter and not give me a smooth like vibration ya know? and this turbo i got is smoken very heavily of white smoke could it be a bad oil seal becasue i noticed that it is pouren out the exhasut side and i also noticed that it has a puddle of oil in the compressor side? now coudl this cause it to go into the motor and smoke that bad?

 

if the seal is bad it will smoke very badly out the exhaust. if there is oil in or on the turbo you will need to fix this before continuing. while the car is idling make sure to zero the timing and once this is done set the timing lock to the off position so it will use the ignition map(this may be the cause of the misfires off idle). then check that what you have programed in the ignition map is what is actually happening. if the timing is suppose to be 10 degrees BTDC then verify this with the timing light. also check that the timing does not fluctuate and that it is stable through out the rev range. also check to see if the spark plugs may have been fouled. if the motor is still hard to start you should check the compression when cold. my own car is very hard to start when cold. start up map could be modified to help.

 

ok tims the timing lock is set at -5 degress becasue i have it lined up on the essentric shaft at 5 degrees, and i turned the lock off with it still set at -5degrees, now the turbo is smoken out of the back end of the housing and i got a puddle of oil in the compressor side of the turbo , now does that mean the oil seal went bad on the turbo or is this oil coming from the motor? and its blowen massavie white smoke and well here you want a map that i used to see what is wrong and maybe help me solve it, i am also running 750cc primarys and 1000cc secs can you help me fix the map becasue i am so lost in how to tune it?????? email me at fastassturbo2@aol.com if that is cool with you?

 

easy to check if the oil is from the motor. pull the spark plugs, if there is oil on the plugs then the oil seals in the motor are leaking, if they are free of oil then it is the turbo oil seal. check the plugs and check the turbo for and play on the shaft. sounds like you have the timing set now you will need to tune the motor. what instruments do you have? EGT, AFM, exhaust gas analyser? do you have access to a dyno? there is no way to tune it without some type of information on mixture. what type of turbo are you using and what is the exhaust and intake setup?

 

ok bro i will check out the motor today and tell ya whats up and i do have an afm gauge but thats it and i might have acess to a dyno, but i will have to see, since that son of a gun costs sooo much! the turbo i am currently using is a to4e with a .70 compressor and 1.15 a/r i am not sure what trim it is but the turbo is a garrett

thankx man

 

Wow, your ignition problems soudn the same as mine! Finally it llokslike I might be able to get my car set up. I sent my E6k to Haltech to make sure it is in proper working order (I was getting bloody frustrated with the inconsistant starting) I'll keep you posted....

 

r u serious, dam man this haltech has been a bitch to me ever sinc ei bought it, i never had any luck with it i mean besides the motor too that dam thing is pissen me off but i jsut sent out my turbo to get sm new seals put in becasue i think that was the casue to my big heavy white hay stack , i couldnt even see my car and well timing was anther issue with this thing but i got it timed right it just takes years o try to start it i mean i have to give it throttle to start it which is not cool, i want the dam thing to start right when i turn the key! so keep me posted!

thankx man

 

these are some of the tuning issues you will need to work out. try adjusting the starting map to add or subtract fuel. do you have the trim ****? this can help with some of these tuning issues. adjust the **** so it starts easier then adjust the map the same amount the **** was turned usaully a certain percentage. remember alot of engineers worked many hours to come up with the stock settings, so don't be discouraged it will just take some time.

 

thankx tim you guys are awesome i apperciate the feedback and by the way tim how much can i get the trim ****? and where from? so does it work really good in easy tuning? well it had to be the turbo by the way becasue there was oil on both sides of the turbo! but i should hav it back soon like this week!

thankx guys

 

any Haltech dealer should have the trim **** available. I think it was $50-$60 with the wired to plug into the terminated harness. you can adjust fuel, ignition timing, or boost (if using Haltech to control boost) this is selectable from the setup menus.

 

thankx tim , i actually ordered it this morning from rx7.com it was 56 bucks to be exact and well, we'll see what happens i am excited to see what happens when i get it! plus i get my turbo back this week and the cool thing is we have NOPI NATIONALS this sunday up in great lakes dragawy in wisconsin, so maybe i'll have the car done to take over there??????? knock on wood!

thankx again tim

 

The trim **** is only a variable (or is it adjustble?) resistor. You can buy one at almost any electronics store (ie Radio Shack). 0-10k ohm is what you want. It will cost you around $2US. I can find my packaging and give the part number if anyone is interested.

 

dude , man i wish u would of read that earlier and told me becasue i get the dam thing from rp tomorrow shitty well dude i apperciate the thought and consideration though!

peace

 

Jay is correct(not sure of the variable resistors value though) but the Haltech one will have the connector and a small box to mount it in the car. Is this worth $50, probably not but it is simpler and is not terribly expensive. I bought mine with the ECU and harness and it works great.

 

ok cool tim, yea i should be getting mine today , like how does it function or how do you work it ? i am sure it comes with instructions? becase i know my car is running realy rich becasue of those big injectors that i have in like the 750s pimary and 1000 secondaries, so do i just go into a fuel map at any range and jsut dial it down with the trim ****? is that how it works?

 

the trim adjustment is between 10 and 20 percent plus or minus. in the programing you can set fine(10) or coarse(20). then do some road work and raise or lower the level and when you find a good setting for a particular load you can lower that value by the percentage the **** is moved from zero. this number can be found in the engine output section. this way you can drive and only move a small radio type **** instead of having to do it on the laptop as you are driving. if the trim is maxed out and it is still too rich or lean then you know the whole map may need an adjustment of 10 or 20 percent. it probably won't come with any instructions though. they tend to expect everyone who buys these systems to know all the special things it can do. I am constantly finding new things I can use. some of the guys on this board alone are doing some trick stuff with the built in outputs. My setup is very basic since my car is a track only racecar, so I tend to use only the main engine management functions.

 

ok tim watz up man, i am about to take a sledge hammer and beat her! this dam car again comes back to square A, it does not want to start i am gonna shoot either A. the haltech or B. the jap-spec motor! this is outragious i dont know why it keeps doing this i have the timing dead on on the pulley at 5 degrees and in the haltech at -5 degrees what else could be wrong now? it dumps fuel but it doesnt want to ignite? i am not sure what is going on???? here

please help me man
thanks

 

ok i also was thinking what are the odds of either the crank angle sensor or the ECU its self goin bad? maybe my haltech is messed up and i need to send it in? are those any possiblities at all?
well sumone help me! i am going to pull hairs outta my head soon

 

I have had the EXACT same problems. I sent my ECU intoHaltech to discover it is fine. I'll be getting it back ina week or so so I'll keep you posted....

My car ran "ok" (not properly but drivable) for 2 days and decided not to start or go online on the 3rd day.... I t was running SUPER rich too..... The ignition timming was spurratic, somtimes lined up, mostly not......


WHAT IS GOING WRONG WITH OUT FC/Haltech setups????

HELP!

 

you need to check a few more items. make sure there is spark, check the compression, check spark plugs(probably fouled with raw fuel), then while trying to start watch the engine output page on your laptop(very important) and look for the rpm value. while cranking it should be over 600 rpm verify with tach. if this value is 150 or something lower than the tach call Haltech and tell them that the ECU is not picking up the CAS signal correctly. Haltech removes a small resistor(not always needed) and it will work correctly. this has been the only problem I have had with the ignition system. the CAS is very durable and not likely the problem. also make sure that the wiring from the CAS to the Haltech is with a shielded cable(I use the stock cable) and that it is as far away from the plug wires as possible(I route mine behind alternator to other side of motor like the stock harness). I would first check that the rpm on the output page matches the tach and then go from there, this can be intermitant at times because the faster the CAS spins the better the signal becomes. so if it starts it runs fine but may not restart.

 

ok tim , and adrian i understand man this is killing me without my baby, i think yoiu and i have the same problem!, but tim what do u mean 600rpm is that with the spark plugs taken out? or is it when the plugs are in and cranking becasue i get like 180 when i try to crank it and start it with the plugs in it, and its brining out alot of fuel as adrain also mentioned, now this has to be an ignition problem becasue timing is dead on and , whats funny is when i actually get it to run it doesnt idle as well and if i drive it it will miss and not rev smoothly? and heres anther funny part my tps i am using the stock one, i have it callibrated 0% at idle and 100% at full, right well out of ***** and giggles i go back to calibrate it again and the screen pops up saying its at 35% when i know its at 0% hmmmmm something is not right? so i am not sure if this is anther problem, but i should call up haltech?

thankx guys i hope the best to ya adrian, and hopefully we can solove our problems, thankx tim

lata

 

I think you need to contact Haltech and have them fine tune(resistor needs to be removed is what Haltech Australia told me) the reluctor for the Mazda CAS. this is the problem I was also having. normal cranking speed with the engine ready to run(plugs in and wires connected) is about 600 rpm with a good starter and a fully charged battery. If you speak to the tech guy(Dale I think is his name) they will understand your problem right away. simple fix for them to do. I FED EX ed mine and had it back the next day. mine would read 150 rpm and accasionally it would see 1000 and then try to start. give them a call and get it to them. this is not always needed, my other car with an E6k worked fine without any fixes. I was lucky to have a second ECU to verify this problem, one ECU worked fine the second could not pick up the rpm correctly.

 

ok tim well its wierd becasue i have that same problem and well its reading from 160-180 rpms when i crank on it with plugs and wires on! the haltech guy told me to check my ground, but i know for a fact my ground is good, so anwho i am gonna call dale and send the haltech first thing tomorrow! so adrain this might be a problem with your car too man tim your an awesoem guy!

thankx much