Haltech Home Tooth Error Count
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Also, the harness that came with the ECU used shielded wiring. Was only a couple of feet long, so
I had to extend it with my own wiring and the wiring was unshielded. I routed so that it does not go near the alternator, but possibly the fact that it's unshielded cld cause an issue.
So, I'll try rewiring the extension with shielded wiring to see if that makes a difference.
I used insulated spade connectors so that I wldn't have to hack the wiring if a swap was necessary. Also my wiring is a slightly heavier gauge-but I dont think either wb an issue.
If you cant even get it running yet Id surprised that your issue. But regardless you have to shield it, normally the EMI from the spark can be the bigger issue. you will be chasing gremlins for years,so just do it now.
what haltech model. Its very easy to pull the pins from the harness point and just run a new sheilded cable the correct length (I added 4 new sheilded lines to my 1500 setup, was easy as)
what haltech model. Its very easy to pull the pins from the harness point and just run a new sheilded cable the correct length (I added 4 new sheilded lines to my 1500 setup, was easy as)
If you cant even get it running yet Id surprised that your issue. But regardless you have to shield it, normally the EMI from the spark can be the bigger issue. you will be chasing gremlins for years,so just do it now.
what haltech model. Its very easy to pull the pins from the harness point and just run a new sheilded cable the correct length (I added 4 new sheilded lines to my 1500 setup, was easy as)
what haltech model. Its very easy to pull the pins from the harness point and just run a new sheilded cable the correct length (I added 4 new sheilded lines to my 1500 setup, was easy as)
Also wondering if maybe the pinout connection from the ecu connector to the wire is faulty. I'll need to check that also.
Last edited by freq; May 19, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
You realize you could have checked wiring in 5 min. Did you check it? Any gauge up to 22ga is fine. You dont need fancy shielded cable. If it's causing problems, just wrap it with copper tape and ground it to chassis on ecu side
I checked the pins in the connector--looks good. The wiring seems sound. Gonna try my old cas tomorrow to see if makes a difference.
Attached are 2 pictures. One is your FC harness side. Another is ECU side. Make sure they are terminated correctly before continuing.
I just wanted to make sure you knew what we meant when we said "check wiring". It doesn't mean whether wiring and pins look good. It means checking whether correct pins on the ECU harness is contiguous with the 4 pin CAS harness with a multimeter. Sorry if you already have done that. It sounded like you just looked at the wiring superficially.
Attached are 2 pictures. One is your FC harness side. Another is ECU side. Make sure they are terminated correctly before continuing.
Attached are 2 pictures. One is your FC harness side. Another is ECU side. Make sure they are terminated correctly before continuing.
So, yesterday I got a 2nd "new" CAS, installed and cranked it with no trigger errors.
Today, got it started and idled it for 20 mins or so with no errors. So, it seems that my previous "new"(rebuilt) CAS was faulty.
Y, thanks for the attachments but I had already done this. In fact had haltech walk me thru it to make sure I had it setup correctly. -- but I appreciate the help.
So, yesterday I got a 2nd "new" CAS, installed and cranked it with no trigger errors.
Today, got it started and idled it for 20 mins or so with no errors. So, it seems that my previous "new"(rebuilt) CAS was faulty.
So, yesterday I got a 2nd "new" CAS, installed and cranked it with no trigger errors.
Today, got it started and idled it for 20 mins or so with no errors. So, it seems that my previous "new"(rebuilt) CAS was faulty.





