Haltech wiring for E8 to 13b-re
 

Guys Im going a full new haltech loom and rewing my 13b-re engine.

Ive gone through and fully detailed the entire wiring system for my haltech and ignitions (M&W CDI setup)

Really I just want one for the guys in the know (Claudio RX-7 or BDC :wave: ) to have a look and say, yeh that looks all sweet :)

Any changes are more then welcome, Ive not wired up a engine before.
I also have lots of inputs and outputs Im not using so any advice on those would be good. (see the diagram)

Also hopefully the picture will help others in the future.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4...del6bn1.th.jpg

Or colour may be easier.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8...delcdj9.th.jpg



Also where the hell does this speed sensor wire up to ? (I got it with my haltech e8 all second hand) :scratch: if I cant use it its all good.

Also can someone check my wideband wiring..... I think its all right. but a quick yes or no would help me heaps..

Cheers guys.

-Anth

PS sorry the pic is a bit unclear and simple.. I drew it up in Cad as that's all I know.
I have a PDF copy thats heaps better if anyone would like it.

hmm just realising its not that clear at all (Ive drawn it to a A1 page)
may have to try and increase the test size and wires I think

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4...emodel6bn1.jpg
By antman01 at 2009-01-28

ive got no extra input but damn im stoked you have figured out the connections for the tps, as myself and some one else is looking into this as well:)

hmm try this one :)
Beef, Havnt tested the TPS yet, but onc eI kinda get the ok looks good I will let you know :)

Also Im assuming thats how you set up the boost controller and just set it to closed loop within Halwin

Also the M&W cdi unit say wire to battery, but since the haltech has a relay and sourse power for it I did it this way... can anyone see any issues ?

Cheers again in advance... Hope this also help others in the future.
(PS if anyone wants the cad file PM me)

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7...rkerhz4.th.jpg

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7...edarkerhz4.jpg
By antman01

Wow, that's impressive! I'll need a few minutes to really take a close look at it. Definitely something that ought to be sticky'd.

B

hahah let me fix up the errors before it gets stickied :)

Cheers when you have had some time to digest it let me know :)

Why not use the Pro-14R instead of the 2-channel unit?

Ideally I would have :) , but when I bought the E8 the guy was selling it with the Pro12 (So basically cost me nothing and thought I may as well use it.)

So thought Id use it direct fire for my primaries and use some LS1 (or similar ) for the trainings.


C. Ludwig, I know your a bit of a haltech pro, see any issues with my wiring ?
(is there any issues using a common ground with the wideband ?)


Also any sensors you guy recommend that I should use as a input so I can data log better.
(in car gauges I have oil pressure, egt, boost, water temp, fuel pressure)

hahaha
arron or JO by chance ?
seems they all come to me , cause at least i know !!!
the four wire jobs have a pin for N/C , ignore it
else once wired up, double check that its not reading 100%
if it is, swap the earth and signal wires !

PS
tie the lambda's heater ground to body earth rather than the ECU

Cheers Bump :)

Makes sense. The price difference between the two is less than $350 is why I asked.

I downloaded your schematic. I'll look at it asap.

cheers mate appreciate it :)

I've already taken bumps advise on the wideband ground wiring.

hopefully I will have Sat to have a proper crack at it :)

and the TPS polarity , users note cosmo 13b uses the same 4 wire tps as the 20b , which is a different pin layout to the FD unit

getting it wrong can mean upside down signal, easily checked and corrected

Your CAS wiring is incorrect. The 12V+ is not used. Both of the VE- (white and white/black) go to the Blue wire from the Haltech. The Red wire is not used.

Also, re grounding: IMO all the major electronics should be grounded to a single point on the block (cylinder head of a piston engine). The ignition in particular needs to be grounded at the rotor housings. Using a common ground point for the ECU, wideband, gauges, etc. helps to eliminate ground offsets present when using multiple body ground locations. A heavy ground strap should be run from the battery negative side to the block (head) and then all the important electronics grounded to a single lug on a rotor housing (head).

C. Ludwig your a champ :) thanks for the CAS pickup :)

As for gounding I'm Im on the same track as you. But will be a issue of doing what I can.
My battery is also mounted in the boot, but nothing more wires cant fix.

Cheers for the help.

I have a updated image that I will post up to help others in the future. (but cant post pics from work.)

Thanks again

Re grounding: With the battery relocated the last thing you want to do is simply run a short ground strap from the battery to the body and then rely on the body to carry the load from the engine block. A 2 ga cable is usually sufficient from the battery to the block. This will carry the high current draw of the starter as well as provide for a direct path to the battery for the ignition and other electronics, eliminating ground loops and offsets. Other, less important accessories such as pumps and fans can be grounded to the chassis as necessary. You will need a single strap from the block to the body as well.

Also, thanks for putting that diagram together. It will make things a LOT easier for others to do full installs. If we can get a moderator on this board to do more than chase people off for trying to short change the corporate owner of the board maybe this will get stickied for all to see.

Haltech is working on diagrams like this, they've already dont all of the S4/S5/S6 diagrams including stock ignition, msd, m&w and ls1 coil variations. Contact them for one if you need it.

Cris, you've got email. ;)

none of them have any input to my car build up, just supply parts:slap:, you know who the other person was after the info and i was just trying to help him as we all do, im not even running my cosy manifold until ive ran with the ida setup, its just something that i had to do later on(pinout for cosy tps), and now you guys have sorted that for me:)

lol wish I knew that before hand.

But just a quick one. I currently have the stock Cosmo knock sensor.
Can the haltech E8 use that as a imput ? to monitor knock ?

Can you send me your diagram to my email? mirkoelek@yahoo.com. I would appreciate this a lot. Did you figure out how to connect speed sensor.

Hey mate will do :)

The TPS wiring back back to front so the one I'm sending is updated.

Also no... no one helped with the speed sensor wiring :(

Does anybody know the answer to this? Can it use the stock knock sensor, or are there any aftermarket sensors it can use?

I know this is a blast from the past but why was this never stickied??? Havoc could you please post the updated image please?

Because effective moderation of this forum is non-existent.