Finally, no more factory CAS!
 

I never really liked the factory second gen CAS and was not able to run a third gen cover due to engine mounting. After months of searching i finally assembled the setup i wanted!

I did have a unrelated question though. I bought three of the hall effect sensors and was planning on running one for the VSS. I didn't see where there was a pull up on option and i know the sensor does not have an internal pull up resistor. Do i need to install one and if so what resistance.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/4345/dscn3056.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/1425/dscn3050v.jpg
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Question, i only see 12 teeth on this trigger wheel, will you have a 2nd wheel with the single tooth somewhere else?

Or something else?

I have a couple options to trigger the home. I have an extra hall sensor and was planning on either using it with a gutted CAS, adding a sensor and trigger to the flywheel, or adding a sensor and trigger to the front pulley. I may just use the CAS for the home with a HS. If i understand it correctly having a less than accurate home should not effect the accuracy of the crank trigger.

Have any more of these laying around or care to share your source? Tommy likey!

Slick unit Allen ;)

Any particular reason you stuck with 12 teeth?

It's the only multi-tooth wheel the Haltech will work with.

I would be more than happy to share the source. It took me a hell of a long time to find it and the place that makes it ended up being about 10 miles from my house!

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...unt2=973960518

The problem i have not is that i don't think the trigger wheel inside the CAS is suitable to trigger a hall effect sensor so i have a couple choices. I can just run the VR for the home. I can make a custom wheel that fits inside the CAS that will trigger a hall effect. If i can make a single tooth trigger wheel that will bolt on the crank pulley. What do you guys think?


If it's good enough for Motec, it's good enough for me!!!

I think you'd be fine using the stock VR sensor with the CAS. Like you said before it's not as critical as the trigger wheel. As long as you have no issues with it dropping out on you it's work fine. Would lose the cool factor of being able to ditch the CAS all together though. I can't think of a good way to place a single tooth or magnet for the home signal other wise.

I though about adding a bolt to the flywheel but drilling it really makes me nervous!

Well, after talking to a few people i decided to ditch the Haltech "red" sensors and go with the Honeywell GT101 sensors. I have all the brackets made up to mount the sensors but i don't know where to put the home tooth in relation to the trigger wheel. I have read trough the manual and i cant make heads or tails of the whole tooth offset/trigger angle. Can someone dumb it down a little for me please.

Thanks
Allen

P.S. i will make someone a hell of a deal on the red sensors if they are interested. I have three :)

Id line it up right where it was with the cas where it ran sweet before I guess i have never use this before and i also think you have to take in mind your port timing bridge ,pp,semi pp, e,t,c

Port timing has nothing to do with it.

Tooth offset is just a number. Whether it's one or five, doesn't matter. You want the trigger tooth to lead TDC by about 10*+the maximum advance you plan to run. So if max advance is 40* you'll want the trigger tooth to line up with the sensor at 50* BTDC #1. So (if 40* is your max advance) set the crank at 50* BTDC #1 and mount your sensor so that it aligns with one of the trigger teeth. Move the wheel or sensor until the sensor aligns with one of the teeth. Which one doesn't matter so much.

Now the home tooth needs to precede the trigger tooth aligning with it's sensor. By how much? Doesn't matter much. You program the ECU (tooth offset) to take up the difference. Example: If the home tooth passes it's sensor and then the trigger tooth passes it's sensor immediately without another trigger tooth passing the sensor the tooth offset is zero. If the home tooth passes it's sensor and three trigger teeth pass the trigger sensor then the trigger tooth passes the sensor; the tooth offset would be 3. Make sense?

does reluctor dia come into question also

The trigger point of the sensor might vary slightly between two different sensors but it's not a big deal. The trigger angle adjustment in the software allows you to zero out something like that. Remember, tooth offset is a gross adjustment, trigger angle is a fine adjustment.

Got it. So no matter where i mount it i just have to have the corresponding settings in the Haltech. I would like to set it up as close to the stock settings as i can so i will have to do some figuring.

Thanks!

Yep. Only thing you need is to make sure the home tooth aligns with it's sensor no less than around 60* BTDC #1. That way the ECU will be able to see the home tooth and the trigger tooth before it needs to initiate the trigger event.

What are you doing for a home tooth?

I am going to use a wheel with a single tooth.

Thanks for the help!

I need pics! :) Probably going to copy what you're doing on the 20B I'm working on.

You got it. The guys a VAC Motorsports are super nice and they said they could make any wheel i wanted, i just had to give them dimensions.

any updates on this setup ? , I'm looking at going hall effect and would like to see all the possible external options.

thanks

The Platinums now support the Renesis trigger, so we're getting ready to work on swapping the Renesis multi-tooth wheel to a Cosmo engine. Should be the easiest, most cost effective way to achieve a crank trigger on the early engines. You end up with a multi-tooth wheel that only requires one sensor, unlike the 12+1 configuration.

We're waiting to see if the Sport ECUs will provide Hall trigger support for the Renesis trigger. The configuration that is currently available on the Sprint RE works with a VR sensor only. The firmware for the Sport ECUs is expected any day.

I'm waiting for that myself, Chris. I've got a bridgeported Renesis motor over here that needs a good standalone on it and I'd like to do the Platinum Sport 1k if it will actually support that trigger.

B

How do you mean "actually".

Had a look at the beta version of the latest firmware/software last night and the Renesis trigger is present for the Sport series. There are also some other nice new features included. One thing I am disappointed in is that currently the Renesis trigger will not work with a 3-rotor app according to Scott at Haltech. The software allows you to configure it that way, but Scott says it won't work. He said they'd put it on the white board for a look in the future. At any rate, I'm excited to do the Renesis trigger reto-fit to a Cosmo engine to see how well it works.

Hey Chris,

I have to, in all honestly, say i have very little problems with the factory CAS on 2nd gen, cosmo and 3 rotor motors, usually ive always been able to set everyone of those properly with no problems what so ever.

I have also talked to a few people that tell me the GT101 sensors will fit somewhat easily on 3rd gen motors.

The renesis trigger wheel would be a good idea too, lets hope they apply it soon enough to the 3 rotor as well.

Most of the time the stock sensors will provide a good stable signal, but you should always scope them to see exactly what's going on, it reveals so much priceless information when you do, its the difference between a proper running engine and one that will miss fire due to incorrectly dialing in the triggers.