Haltech FC ignition problem
FC ignition problem
Last night I got much closer to solving my timing problems, but I need some suggestions as to exactly what the cause is. I locked the timing at -5 and put a timing light on L1. I noticed that L1 intermittently fires when T2 fires. I pointed the light at the CAS (with the cover off) and L1 normally fires when the 2 tooth (top) wheel is pointing at the screw holes in the CAS body, but it will also fire when the top wheel is close to its trigger point, the same spot as when T2 fires. With the light pointed at the pulley, it looks like the timing "wanders" back and forth a few degrees.
My first thought is that it has something to do with the toggle. I'll dig into this more this weekend.
Thanks
My first thought is that it has something to do with the toggle. I'll dig into this more this weekend.
Thanks
Weird question, but what is your Firmware version?  I'm assuming this is an E6K?
I had run into a recent install where I could NOT get the stupid E6K to consistently fire correctly.  In fact, set-up for DIST and ROTARY, it would not fire the trailings correctly - T2 would only fire, and T1 would never fire.  I got so mad at the whole thing, I changed the set-up to fire three discrete coils going with DIRECT and ROTARY.  At first, it fired fine, but when I tried to gun the timing off T1/T2, one channel stopped working.  (#$@#^*
This E6K had a very old Firmware version (*2*).  Luckily, I had an extra one with the latest(?) version 14.  The later E6K worked solid (in Direct Fire mode), but I never got around to swapping the wiring to test for DIST/ROTARY with the toggle.
-Ted
I had run into a recent install where I could NOT get the stupid E6K to consistently fire correctly.  In fact, set-up for DIST and ROTARY, it would not fire the trailings correctly - T2 would only fire, and T1 would never fire.  I got so mad at the whole thing, I changed the set-up to fire three discrete coils going with DIRECT and ROTARY.  At first, it fired fine, but when I tried to gun the timing off T1/T2, one channel stopped working.  (#$@#^*
This E6K had a very old Firmware version (*2*).  Luckily, I had an extra one with the latest(?) version 14.  The later E6K worked solid (in Direct Fire mode), but I never got around to swapping the wiring to test for DIST/ROTARY with the toggle.
-Ted
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,796
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by RETed
Weird question, but what is your Firmware version?  I'm assuming this is an E6K?
I had run into a recent install where I could NOT get the stupid E6K to consistently fire correctly.  In fact, set-up for DIST and ROTARY, it would not fire the trailings correctly - T2 would only fire, and T1 would never fire.  I got so mad at the whole thing, I changed the set-up to fire three discrete coils going with DIRECT and ROTARY.  At first, it fired fine, but when I tried to gun the timing off T1/T2, one channel stopped working.  (#$@#^*
This E6K had a very old Firmware version (*2*).  Luckily, I had an extra one with the latest(?) version 14.  The later E6K worked solid (in Direct Fire mode), but I never got around to swapping the wiring to test for DIST/ROTARY with the toggle.
-Ted
Weird question, but what is your Firmware version?  I'm assuming this is an E6K?
I had run into a recent install where I could NOT get the stupid E6K to consistently fire correctly.  In fact, set-up for DIST and ROTARY, it would not fire the trailings correctly - T2 would only fire, and T1 would never fire.  I got so mad at the whole thing, I changed the set-up to fire three discrete coils going with DIRECT and ROTARY.  At first, it fired fine, but when I tried to gun the timing off T1/T2, one channel stopped working.  (#$@#^*
This E6K had a very old Firmware version (*2*).  Luckily, I had an extra one with the latest(?) version 14.  The later E6K worked solid (in Direct Fire mode), but I never got around to swapping the wiring to test for DIST/ROTARY with the toggle.
-Ted
mike
Ted, yes, it's an E6K. Sorry, forgot to mention it.
Unfortunately it's version 14 of the firmware (sytem series 8, software v6.34 if it matters). I bought it in 2001. I wish it were that easy.
This is really annoying me, I've checked everything: all of the wiring, the CAS wiring follows the same route as the factory, the igniters are wired up correctly, I ran an extra ground, the CAS shield ground wire is in fact grounded, the pulley is on right, I have >13 volts at the coils, the CAS is wired correctly, it's setup correctly in the software, the coils/igniters work, the plugs are good.
I'm beginning to think that it's not my installation, but the Haltech.
PS, it seems to run fine, or as good as expected roughly tuned, under load. It's just idle and cruise where I really notice it.
Unfortunately it's version 14 of the firmware (sytem series 8, software v6.34 if it matters). I bought it in 2001. I wish it were that easy.
This is really annoying me, I've checked everything: all of the wiring, the CAS wiring follows the same route as the factory, the igniters are wired up correctly, I ran an extra ground, the CAS shield ground wire is in fact grounded, the pulley is on right, I have >13 volts at the coils, the CAS is wired correctly, it's setup correctly in the software, the coils/igniters work, the plugs are good.
I'm beginning to think that it's not my installation, but the Haltech.
PS, it seems to run fine, or as good as expected roughly tuned, under load. It's just idle and cruise where I really notice it.
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Andrew, I have been fighting this same problem for quite some time until last week when it died completely. I was getting an inconsistant spark on the leading coils. Trailing fired fine. I was proceeding with troublshooting so I rewired the CAS connection and now I get nothing! No spark, just "Reconnect Haltech" on computer, NOTHING ELSE! It seems that I now have either fried the Haltech or lost my switched gray 12v. Will be checking that next. I confirmed I had 12v to the coils, and power to the fuel pump. I also have the same version as you, purchased in Feb. 2001. My Haltech has already gone back to Aus. just a few weeks ago and it checked out fine. If it has to go again, I will be pissed. Thats $80.00 to send it and another $70.00 for them to check it out and send it back. Does not include repairs. If you have any suggestions, let them fly. I'm not sure I can help you.
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