E8 problems
 

I'm having problems with the E8 on my FC, here is the setup. 13b-re, stock twins non seuential, 3 inch exhaust, ebay intercooler.

Here is the deal, I started playing with it yesturday got it started on 550 1680 injectors, but couln't make it idle without either the BAC turned on, or my foot on the gas, wouldn't run reliably below 1200 or so. I verified the cas with the mazda procedure, and with the tooth offset at 11 the timing zero's at 28? Whats wrong here? The CAS and ignition are wired right, I verified that 3 times. The trailing is firing in the correct phase. I tried running with the trailing off, no difference. All coils are firing. I decided today that maybe It would be easier starting out if I went back to the stock 550 secondairies to start with. I used a TII basemap and was able to get it running better, but still wouldn't idle for shit. Timing still zero's at 28. I have the gains at 2 filters at 1 I played with those but it makes no difference. I'd like to get it running good enough toverify that the engine is good (seems fine so far) and to drive it to a tuner. Please give me some guidence.

Thanks,
Colin

BTW anyone know a tuner in the greater san diego area

I would call the guys at SpeedMachine Performance, they've done a few Haltech E8's and E11 to know what they're doing, as well as have Haltech right down the corner from them.

I would try a different tooth offset and maybe restab the CAS the HITman's way. with makes the tooth offset 3.

Are you 100% sure you have the reluctor polarities right?

Yes I am certain I got the reluctor poles right. I forgot about SM, they are about 35 miles from my house. I will give them a call tommorow. Tell me if I'm wrong about this, but there should be no functional difference between stabbing the CAS the mazda way and having an offset of 11 and stabbing the CAS the HITMANS way and having the offset at 3 (I thought it was 5), that is the ECU will see the same signal right. Also I am sure that all the plugs are firing, with the trail split set at 15 degrees locked I get the orange slot from my timing light on T1. T2 is 180 out of phase from T1.

Any other ideas?

Colin

mate i would LOVE to hear how you go with this.

i am having EXACTLY the same problem.

haltech e8 on a s5 13bt on stock coils.

my car runs sweet as above 1200rpm. steady RPM readout in halwin, no spikes or irregularities. runs great all the way up to readline, on boost and off, but will not run below 1200rpm.

i have the throttle wound open so it idles at 1300rpm. still quite hard to start.

i have my stock tacho hooked up to the stock position (trailing ignitor), and below 1200 it starts jumping around from between 0 to 1000 and then dies. halwin still gives a great RPM reading, but it seems the E8 isn't firing the coils due to the tacho jumping. as i said, above 1200 its a totally happy engine.

someone help us!!!

You described the problem much better than me, I am also having the tacho jump issue, and the halwin rpm reading is also rock solid, even when cranking. And for all purposes where have about the same engine. Please post here if you figure it out, or have a problem.

"post here if you figure it out, or have a problem." Typing while I'm on a telecon, I think you know what I meant.

Hey Burn, where are you pulling your MAP signal from, and what is the firing angle of your E8 with the timing zero'd?

you guys check your trigger gains and filters?

Yes, Ive tried everything from 1-5 and all filter settings,

Look at your gauges pages and also the corrections window - do you see anything weird?


-Ted

thats just it ted. everything is sweet.

im pretty sure there are no corrections showing. i'll do some logging this weekend to check.

i have a trigger offset of 11 and an angle of 35. using trigger and home filters of 2 and gains of 2. rpm signal deviates by <50rpm at 2000 rpm. is this a good level???

rpm signal is very smooth all the way down to zero. doesn't cut or spike anywhere.

engine is 10,000km old, and used to start in less than 1 second hot or cold with the stock computer.

i am pulling the MAP reading from the bottom nipple on the front of the intake plenum.

i think i'll be going to a workshop next week to get someone else to look at it or it'll do my head in. i just want it to idle!!! then i can do my BAC, closed loop 02 and the rest of my tuning.

ok. here is an idea

what timing should an FC idle easily at?? i dont care if its retarded and egts start to climb, but what will an extend port 13BT DEFINATELY idle at??? 0 degrees? 5 degrees? 20 degrees???

im going to lock my timing in halwin to a preset level. then what should an exend ported 13BT run at injector wise at 500rpm-1000rpm on stock 550cc primarys?? what vacuum? 3ms open time??

i want to eliminate all variables possible.

so what settings does your FC idle at?? i just want to get it going at 700rpm. I dont care if it runs like a pig, but i need a starting point.

PS, seeing as im using high Impedance S5 injectors, what injector current setting do you use in halwin?? the 8Amp saturated one??

Dude you need to check out teds response to this post:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/13b-re-jdm-engine-timing-marks-545454/

Ive now got my car idling perfect.

I dont understand what you're saying???

what did you differently to get the car idling?

i have an offset of 11 and trigger of 35, and when timing is locked at -5.0 i get the leading L1 firing right on the yellow mark.

its a jap spec Engine, with a jap timing cover and cas.

run me through what you did to fix the problem?

Set the offset to 9 and the trigger to 90, then re zero your timing. Then verify that your cas is wired right, and verify all of your trigger and ignition settings. After that you have to get the relationship between the air screw and the throttle stop right. Verify that your timing map and trail split are realistic. If that dosen't work start looking for vacuum leaks. And verify again that your trail is in the correct phase.

That pretty much sums it up.

dude, can you send me your working map???

im really at a loss here.

email is :ad.burns@gmail.com

id really appreciate it if you could.

I'm using Claudio's map: http://www.tuningtechnology.com/Down...ck%20S4-S5.zip
Ive altered it slightly on the top and bottom. I will save and send you the actual map tonight or tommorow. I have duty today and cannot get to to my car til then.