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Haltech Closed Loop Knock Control for Haltech ECUs

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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 02:27 AM
  #26  
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Good point Ludwig, Justin i think the unit shouldnt even raise the voltage passed 2.5v to advance timing beyond zero degrees, that way theres no risk. And should have protection against voltage spikes so it will definately not go beyond 2.5v.

Is to hard to do?
That should be easy to do, just give it the full 5 volts as the nominal amount, and then bring your entire timing map down by the 2.5V difference, (8 deg on an e6k for example), that would give you a full 16 degrees of possible retard on an E6k. and 0-40 on an E11/E8.

Since the trim plug supplys the 5 volts and just a guess, but he is probably taking that and stepping it down to 2.5 you could probably eliminate a few components by doing this.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 04:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Node
a dick head who can build and run low 9's in a stock bodied fc
crispeed=the man
Yep!
That will be me.
BTW. Mr ******** to you sir!
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Is the voltage firmly clamped at 2.5V ref max? There is no danger of input voltage to your sensor module possibly raising and causing your unit's output to actually add timing?

Great question! The answer is Yes, it is firmly and robustly clamped as to not allow for timing to be added.

The only way this output could go above +2.5VDC is if the Haltech's +5VDC sensor supply voltage was to raise. I have never heard of this happening and it would also cause all of your other sensors to read wrong too. The Haltech's +5VDC is merely ran through a resistor to drop to the +2.5VDC, so this part of the circuit is not complicated and relies on very robust components.

Justin
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:17 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by slo
That should be easy to do, just give it the full 5 volts as the nominal amount, and then bring your entire timing map down by the 2.5V difference, (8 deg on an e6k for example), that would give you a full 16 degrees of possible retard on an E6k. and 0-40 on an E11/E8.

Since the trim plug supplys the 5 volts and just a guess, but he is probably taking that and stepping it down to 2.5 you could probably eliminate a few components by doing this.
This is a great point and could be done.

Do we really need to pull more than 8degrees though? Would more people like this design? Maybe I will tinker with the idea of this....now I'm thinking of a design that has a switch (like the J&S) to be selectable...hmmmm....back to the breadboard

Justin
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 01:20 PM
  #30  
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I would like the 5 V nominal design better because it would make the product just slightly simpler. Even if it isn't really required.

If your back to the breadboard how about a second channel that can enrich the maps using the fuel trim. Not sure if this would work on an E6k, that is having both fuel and ign trim active at the same time, but it would work on an E8/E11
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 07:15 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by slo
I would like the 5 V nominal design better because it would make the product just slightly simpler. Even if it isn't really required.

If your back to the breadboard how about a second channel that can enrich the maps using the fuel trim. Not sure if this would work on an E6k, that is having both fuel and ign trim active at the same time, but it would work on an E8/E11
So I would have to make one channel increase in voltage while the other decreased. hmmm.

Justin
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 07:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by slo
That should be easy to do, just give it the full 5 volts as the nominal amount, and then bring your entire timing map down by the 2.5V difference, (8 deg on an e6k for example), that would give you a full 16 degrees of possible retard on an E6k. and 0-40 on an E11/E8.

Since the trim plug supplys the 5 volts and just a guess, but he is probably taking that and stepping it down to 2.5 you could probably eliminate a few components by doing this.
I tested this over the weekend on my E6K and was successful in advancing to +6degrees and was able to pull to -8degrees. Thats 14degrees of total pull. The current design is capable of this too with the current built in adjustability.

The rebuild time is dependant on these adjustable resistances so the rebuild time is very short. I could change this rebuild time if people are interested in more timing pull.

If people dont mind offseting their base maps (or another trim map Air Temp Ignition, Coolant Temp Ignition) then this unit is cabable of pulling 1 to 14degrees of timing.

Justin
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 07:29 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pistonsuk
I tested this over the weekend on my E6K and was successful in advancing to +6degrees and was able to pull to -8degrees. Thats 14degrees of total pull. The current design is capable of this too with the current built in adjustability.

The rebuild time is dependant on these adjustable resistances so the rebuild time is very short. I could change this rebuild time if people are interested in more timing pull.

If people dont mind offseting their base maps (or another trim map Air Temp Ignition, Coolant Temp Ignition) then this unit is cabable of pulling 1 to 14degrees of timing.

Justin
If I understood correctly.
The easiset way would be to reset the trigger angle deg. with the trim setup at full advance that way when the unit activates you can get the full retard range of the trim control input.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 12:08 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by crispeed
If I understood correctly.
The easiset way would be to reset the trigger angle deg. with the trim setup at full advance that way when the unit activates you can get the full retard range of the trim control input.
This would work, but all datalogs and real time readings from the engine data page would look advanced by that amount. I would prefer to change a trim map across the board so that the real timing still appears when logged or looked at.

Justin
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pistonsuk
This would work, but all datalogs and real time readings from the engine data page would look advanced by that amount. I would prefer to change a trim map across the board so that the real timing still appears when logged or looked at.

Justin
True.
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #36  
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FS: Closed Loop Knock Control

I made another batch. I have one left for $75shipped 2-3day USPS Priority. Most international orders can be shipped for an additional $10-15. PM me.

Justin
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #37  
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Here is the thread I will update with the latest info:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0&page=1&pp=15

Justin
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #38  
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I'd like to get one.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 03:09 AM
  #39  
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Back from the dead...Come on buddy make a few more for us...
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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Yes! :-)
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:20 AM
  #41  
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I've sent a couple of pm's to Pistonsuk, and he replied one time saying that he was moving and would be a while before he could make another batch(but that pm was over a year ago). And recently I've sent one but he hasn't replied back. Maybe if enough people had more interest in them and contacted him by pm or email then he might consider making another batch for us. I personally want three of them asap!
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #42  
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We can probably gleam some information from the MegaSquirt manual site. It has some neat information.

MegaSquirt-II Knock Sensing
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by dznutzuk
I've sent a couple of pm's to Pistonsuk, and he replied one time saying that he was moving and would be a while before he could make another batch(but that pm was over a year ago). And recently I've sent one but he hasn't replied back. Maybe if enough people had more interest in them and contacted him by pm or email then he might consider making another batch for us. I personally want three of them asap!

hey sorry for the delay.. PM'd ya back

-J
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #44  
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OR Knock boxes back in Production! Shipping 12/2010

Due to popular demand, I am going to make another batch.

Taking orders now, at this point I have 9pcs not spoken for yet. I'm waiting on parts; at the very earliest I will able to start shipping on 12/6/10.

$75 ea. Paypal accepted. Shipped 2-3day USPS. Comes with full install instructions.

Send me PM and I will confirm your order and reply with paypal addy.

-J

Knock Box Response Video:

Blue line is Output from GM ignition Module. Step pulse is caused by knock event. Yellow line is knock box output (instantly goes low ~0v causing Haltech to pull timing then rebuild slowly back to 2.5V 0deg timing).


<a href=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaSrZqJ6s_8>Get your HTML codes here!</a>

Last edited by pistonsuk; Nov 14, 2010 at 04:54 PM. Reason: added link
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #45  
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hi mate will these work with a platinum 1000
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 12:11 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by rxsexen
hi mate will these work with a platinum 1000
I'm not that familiar with that one... if it has ignition trim input then you're in business!

-J
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 12:16 AM
  #47  
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8 Boxes Left

Mike V got #9.

8 more left.

-J
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:16 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by pistonsuk
I'm not that familiar with that one... if it has ignition trim input then you're in business!

-J
PS2000 (and probably PS1000 as well) does have Ignition trim input and is adjustable for 0-20 degrees.

"With the optional trim module attached to an analogue input, the ignition timing can be adjusted with the trim module.

When the trim is centred, the amount of correction is 0°. When the trim is wound to the left, it will be at the most negative correction. When wound to the right, it will be at the maximum positive correction. The setup tab allows you set the Maximum Trim percentage"

If you set it to 20deg and Justin's box is producing 2,5Volts at no knock, you will have 20deg of pull at 0V.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 01:51 AM
  #49  
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Hey buddy, is there any way you can make an output for a led light so we can know what's happening-when the device is activated?
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dznutzuk
Hey buddy, is there any way you can make an output for a led light so we can know what's happening-when the device is activated?

not at this point, it was a stretch for me to be able to build them again. sorry, no time/place for R&D.
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