Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Try swapping the valve...There is an official test procedure in the Haynes manual to veryify operation of the valve...Basically, after 3500RPM it should dump air out of the relief port...If that doesn't happen, then it probably isn't working.

NZConvertible

The ACV is a fairly complex little thing. Under direction of ECU controlled solenoids it directs air from the air pump to either the exhaust ports, the cat (via the split air pipe), or a dump to atmosphere depending on engine conditions. The split air pipe only gets air in 5th gear, that’s probably why you couldn’t get it to work. So it’s not necessarily at fault. Do the tests in the FSM (where you’ll find the diagram you’re after), and if it fails replace it with another one. I doubt they’re easily repairable.

HAILERS

Ok! Lets argue. NZCONVERTIBLE, these words that you wrote are not quite correct: (The split air pipe only gets air in 5th gear). The split air pipe, pipes air to the catalytic converter anytime the Switching solenoid has a ground put on it by the ECU. That will cause the switching solenoid to close, preventing a vacuum being put on the switching valves diaphram(located inside the ACV). That allows a path for the airpump air to pass to the cat, because the switching valve will be spring loaded to close the Port Air passage and allowing an opening to the cat.

When the car is in fifth gear, the SPLIT AIR SOLENOID VALVE is energized to open the passage to the split air even further, allowing a stronger flow of air.

And just some unsolicited info, look at the PORT AIR SOLENOID VALVE. It's poppet valve is to the open anytime you have the engine running and have over 20, 000 miles on the car. Might as well just remove the poppet and put it in the tool box since the valve is energized open all the time.

I attached a jpg with the picture of the ACV.

HAILERS

OOPS. MENTAL ERROR. BACK IN A MOMENT.

NZConvertible

All right, bring it on!
Nah, just kidding. Great info man, didn't know all that. I've never bothered to really figure it all out, I'm too busy ripping it all off!

Actually, I'll argue about the port air solenoid! According to the FSM control table, it's OFF under heavy load.

HAILERS

Just meant to say the switching solenoid is closed most of the time you are driving, meaning there is split air going to the cat. Whenever you lift your foot off the throttle, the split air is shut off and now the airpump air goes to the Port Air passage. Wrote this *** backwards earlier and had to erase what I had wrote, hence the words in caps at the begining.

DVST8....With the car at idle, fully warmed up do the following first. Look at the acv. Above the acv you see two small vac hose next to each other. At idle pull the front one off and feel for a vacuum on the VAC HOSE(not the metal nipple, please). There should be a vacuum there. No vacuum? The vacuum comes from the switching solenoid on the left side of the engine. Has a grey plug on its solenoid. Pull its plug off and see if you now get a vacuum at the front vac hose mentioned at the beginning.

Do one other thing. See if the rear of the two vacuum hose has a vacuum on the HOSE. Both of the two vac hose should have a vacuum on them. Write back for more info or confusion, whichever comes first.

HAILERS

DVST8....sorry, I did not read all of your second post about the air relieving all the time. That can be caused by a couple of things. First, look for a vacuum at the two small vac hose just above the acv and write back, then look at the water temp switch at the bottom of your radiator. Left side of the radiator. If one or both of the two bullet connectors on it are off, the relief solenoid will be de-energized cutting off vacuum to the relief diaphram in the acv, making it go to the spring loaded position which means air from the air pump goes overboard to the silencer. Write back about the water temp sw on the bottom of the radiator and lets see what we can do to fix this. If one of the connectors is off, put it back on and see if your acv is still relieving.

NZCONVERTIBLE. Just joking around. But I'll go back and take another look at my Port Air Solenoid. I'm one of those people who just went over 200,000 miles on the odometer, which on some cars makes it act like a car with less than 20,000 miles. I *thought* I had my story straight on this, but its obvious I don't really know. Not many ask about the Port Air solenoid. rusty. excuses, excuses.

HAILERS

I may have to quit for today. Too many mistakes. You SHOULD NOT GET SPLIT AIR AT IDLE. Both the switching and relief diaphrams are having a vacuum being pulled on them. That makes their poppet looking valves pull toward the diaphram. That should close off the possibility of the air pump air going to the air silencer, and also the switching air's poppet valve should pull toward its spring and open the passage for the air pump air to go to the PORT AIR.

One thing for sure, if your air is going to the Air Silencer at idle, there is no vacuum being pulled on the Relief Valve in the acv. Thats because of the water temp sw plug being off, a broken diaphram in the acv or the tps is not set right.

TPS NOT SET RIGHT! WHAT THE FOOL YOU MEAN BY THAT???? If you ever looked at the schematic that shows the check connector (green) that is use for setting the tps with the two bug lites, you see a splice in each of two of the three wires in the *check connector*. The ground signal from the ECU that turns on each bug lite, also is spliced into the Switchin and Relief solenoid. At idle you should see a ground signal on the Relief solenoid but none on the Switching solenoied. Just like you see only one bug lite when the tps is set right.. Make sense?????? Yes.

HAILERS

NZCONVERT......Take a look at this out of the 87 fsm and in particular the paragraph in RED. I also tried out my turboii with less than 20,000 miles and the poppet/plunger pulls in all the time. Might as well not be there after 20,000 miles.

P.S. I can make a blockoff plate faster than your best man downunder can. Been there, done that. I find it more fun screwing around making the thing work like it should. Thats not a slam at you or anyone. Two different goals of different people. I have to pass emissions once a year and they just got tougher this year. Alll I can afford to do is use a RB dual exaust on the n/a to jack the power up a bit for 355 days, and swap the exaust once a year for emissions.

NZConvertible

Yeah I know about that bit, but the control matrix in the S5 FSM says it’s also off under heavy load. So even on a car that’s done over 20,000miles, it still gets turned off whenever you sink the boot. But that’s for a S5, so who knows. I really wish the S4 FSM had all that control info, it makes figuring out this **** sooo much easier! I’ll race ya! I like your attitude. We’re lucky in that we don’t have any emissions checks, so we can get a way with removing this stuff. Plus on both the rotaries I’ve owned the AVC has failed within a few months of purchasing, resulting in a shitty running engine. I must have bad ACV karma! However I hear the occasional rumor about introducing emissions testing here, so everything I took off is carefully stored away, just in case...

HAILERS

Dvst8....Darn, I was hoping for a easy fix. Got a digital voltmeter???? Gonna need you to find the Blue connector for the Relief solenoid on the drivers side of the engine. Look at the two wires. One is black/white, the other is LY or blue/yellow. Anyway the black/white should have 12v on it. The other blue/yellow, at idle, should have if I remember right, about 2volts on it. Now thats with the connector on the solenoid. If you do not have a meter, idle the engine and put a forefinger on top of the solenoid while you pull the blue connector off the solenoid. Did you feel the solenoid click when you take the plug on and off. Do it several times. If you feel a clicking that means its working like it should and now we need to see if a vacuum is coming out of the solenoid. Let me know about whether the solenoid has the voltage on the plug wires first or if the solenoid clicks when the plug is taken on and off at idle. Sorry, been tied up for the last hour. Getting tired.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

HAILERS/// I got to give you credit on still to be giving detailed Info on the the repair and functioning of the TPS & ACV to anybody how Inquires on It.You cost me $175 for a new TPS but It was worth It! Atleast I have a functioning emission system b'c of you!

Perhaps thats why I had such horrible dyno results due to a non functioning TPS. Will be dynoing soon. With/without Walbro!

HAILERS

You're welcome SILVERROTOR. NZCON.. You've convinced me of one thing. On a turbo car, I found that the diaphram inside the acv for the switching function, gets brittle and cracks do to overheating (not so on a N/A). I'm gonna make a blockoff plate and remove the acv until emissions next August, to save the diaphram. Those things cost too much money to be buying another one. The one I have in the turbo, had a baked diaphram when I got the car, so I took SixRotors advice and took the diaphram out of an old '82 model, did some metal shaping, and installed it into my 87 acv to have a funcitoning acv. I don't have enough spares to do that again.

HAILERS

Ok, you win NZCON.....I tapped into wire 1S at the ECU for the Port Air solenoid thats screwed into the acv, and went for a ride. Didn't even get to the end of the block before I realized I was wrong. Solenoid is engaged at idle and anytime you let off the throttle, but is disengaged(off) when you apply a load on the engine. Common sense thing really.

I see where I went wrong in my thinking earlier. I had, in the past, used a spare Port Air solenoid that was screwed out of the body of its acv, and just hooked the connector on it and started the engine. The valve was powered up at idle, and when I reached over and applied throttle, it was still engaged making me believe it was always engaged with the engine on, after 20,000 miles. Wrong. No load just reving the engine in the driveway(unless I really reved high).

HAILERS

Theres something not making sense here. You say there is no vacuum at the two vac hose just above the acv, but the Blue solenoid has a clicking sound to it suggesting the solenoid part is working.

Tell you what. Stand on the left side of the car and look at the blue solinoid. Just to your left of the blue solenoid is a metal pipe with a vacuum hose on it. Pull that hose off the pipe. With the car idling you should feel a vacuum coming out of the vac hose. You can see that vacuum hose goes to the Blue solenoid. Anyway did you feel a vacuum???

If you did not feel a vacuum, pull the other vacuum hose off the blue solenoid and feel for a vacuum on that hose. Its gets a little tricky because these hose get old and brittle. Do you feel a vacuum on any of these hose or metal pipes we just removed??????

I'm starting to wonder if the vac hose on the front of the pleneum are connected to thier right places. The two bottom of the three hose might be swapped. Anyway tell us what you find.

HAILERS

Look at the attached jpg. You should have a vacumm at where I drew a Yellow hose, anytime the engine is running. The yellow hose I'm talking about is where I drew a yellow line and wrote *vac all times*. The vacuum should be coming from the hose, not the black solenoid. Coming from the hose thats in yellow.