so Ive been having a secondary boost problem. checked the couplings, replaced one, checked vacuum lines blah blah, at first it was 10-8-5 or 4 at redline.

today I was going non-seq and I noticed that my TCA c clip had popped off and the rod was hanging there! I was happy thinking that was my problem! WRONG
Iput it back on and drive it around and now its worse. it sounds like its all spilling out somewhere, as my boost holds 10 till abour 5000 and then drops to nothing, but why now after I fix the TCA? GODDAMN STUPID SEQUENTIAL SYSTEM

SOmeone help please!

 

im am by no means an expert but when somthing is not acting right after you find the problem, i always reset the computer. I hope this might help

 

I had a very similar problem and finally fixed it w/ vaccum hose routing? You could possibly have a bad secondary turbo as well?

 

here's a quick secondary troubleshoot guide:

1) Park car turn ignition to on but don't start it:
2) Check charge control is pulled in
3) Check CRV is open ie you can blow through it

if it fails 2 or 3 it's the vaccum storage/switching system

4) leave CRV venting to atmosphere go for drive.
5) floor it in 3rd @ 3500 rpm you should hear the secondary start pushing a LOT of air out by the time you hit 4500rpm
if it fails 5 then :
a) it's the turbo control actuator (did you hear the exhaust pitch change?)
b) it's a major boost leak (this should be very obvious)
c) the precontrol system is not working

6) as you pass 4500 you should hear the venting abruptly stop.
if it fails 6 then it's the solenoids not switching pressure onto the CRV. Block off the CRV and do another run. If there is still no 2ndary boost its the secondary pressure hose that feeds through the LIM into the nest. (green/brown on the wargasm hose diagram)
If you got secondary boost with the CRV blocked then it's the CRV itself (unlikely) or the hose that connects it to the secondary (common).

 

I'm taking notes rpm! Thanks for the great info!

 

Just go single turbo.. eleviates a lot of problems..

 

it must be # 6, cuz when I Get to 3000, I can hear all the air being vented out like normal, but once I hit 4500 it all poors out, its pretty loud, Im gonna try blocking off the CRV ! thanks!

Stevo

 

but could it be #5 failing and having a huge boost leak?

Stevo.

 

I bet it's 6

If you can really hear it pouring out - much louder than with the CRV connected then it's 6. Sorry to tell you that That's the 4th time I've seen this fault in a week (including my own car).... wierd hey?

-pete

 

so how can I find out if this is the problem? it looks pretty cooked next to the manifold...

 

so how do I block off the CRV? just poke somthing into the venting area?

 

bump

 

cant someoen help? wont blocking the CRV do some damage ? no venting.......

 

sorry man I'm not always on here....

no blocking off the CRV is not going to hurt a thing. It just means the secondary doesn't prespool as much.

To save me reposting: Just do it!!!! I bet you'll find that you still dont have any boost. So rip off the intake pipes. Take off the pressure chamber and xover pipe. Take off the bolts either side of the [wategate|precontrol] solenoid pair and lift them out. Behind them is a LOT of hoses. One will be popped off. I bet you it's the one that's directly behind the solenoids. Just use needle-nose pliers to pop it back on. Done.

Put everything back together go for drive. Enjoy the world of sequential again

-pete

 

I think rpm pwr is right on here. You need to thoroughly check the routing and condition of the hoses related to the CCV and the CRV and their corresponding solenoids. I had the same problem, where the CCV and CRV acted the same after 4,500 as they did before 4,500. It turns out that on the turbo side of the LIM there were two hoses that were in the wrong place. The hose supplying vacuum to the EGR and the hose supplying pressure to the CC and CR solenoids. So when the CCV was supposed to open and the CRV was supposed to close they didn't. It makes sense that it would get worse with the TCA working, because before it would just be the primary turbo getting all the exhaust, but not flowing enough to make full boost, but with the TCA working at 4,500 it takes half of the primaries exhaust flow and dumps it to the secondary (which is spitting it's boost out the CRV).
Hook your boost gauge to the vacuum lines leading to the CRV and to the CCV. Tell us what the vacuum and pressure values are at the different rpms. It should be vacuum until 4,500 and then pressure till redline.

 

thanks you two, I really appreciate it. I know for one thing that it cant be a routing error, because my boost did work 10-8-10 about 2 months ago, then I got my boost gauge, and realized that it died and was leakin somewhere. so to block the crv should I just put a rubber stopper in the hole? heh

Stevo

 

Sure. Just put a rubber stopper in the hole, or some tissue in the hose before the valve. Don't drive too long like that, though. It may not be devastating, but it can't be good for the compressor to backing up with air from 3,000 to 4,500.

 

well tonight, I tried plugging the CRV, and it still leaked out, and eventually launched the rubber stopper out of it haha. so I ripped apart my car a bit, and did what u said and pulled out the two seleniods, I replaced about 6 vacuum lines in there, the 4 on the selenoids, and the two right next to em, and the 4 vacuume lines behind the two selenoids that were all stacked up in a line, were all on correctly... so what should I check now? I really couldnt see any popped hoses under there with a flashlight and the selenoids out.. im stumped!

oh and I noticed somthing now.... sometimes whne I floor it after shifting into second, I get no boost, but if I let off and floor it again I get the full 10 psi from primary,I think its done it once in third too.... Im confused as crap

Stevo

 

The reason your boost is low when shifting is because the turbos are in non-sequential mode; once you let the rpm's drop it goes back to sequential.
To better help us troubleshoot, why don't you "T" into the vacuum lines going to the CCV and CRV and tell us the values throughout the rev band.

 

When you had the CRV blocked did you get boost? From the sound of it -i'd say u didn't. So it's definately the pressure line that goes from the secondary and feeds onto the CRV and CCV solenoids. Get hold of wargasm's diagram (do a search for vacum diagram) and check it out.

The hose goes from the nipple next to where the CRV connects to the 2nd turbo. It loops under a metal hardline pipe and connects to the LIM. Take that hose off at the turbo (leaving it connected to the LIM) and blow through it.

- if you cant blow through it (pressure builds up) then the hose is good. This means that the solenoids just are not firing (unlikely)
-if you can blow through it - it's fucked. Try and find out where the air is coming out. Try taking off the hose by disconnecting it from the LIM. When you have it in your hands, block the other end and blow through it to check it. If it checks out, I'm afraid you UIM is just going to have to come off because it's leaking at the solenoids.

-pete

oh yeah LIM = lower intake manifold

 

well, I replaced all three hoses on the CRV two days ago, the problem started before that... soooo I'll get the readings for you two tomorrow. and thank you so much for helping me. Im autocrossing in a month and I gotta try and get it fixed by then. I might just rip off the UIM tomorrow and replace em all. where are the pills?

and Im gonna plug it again also tomorrow to make sure I didnt, cuz I diddnt the first time,. but I dunno exactly when my stopper blew out heh.
Stevo

 

Any progress?

 

Ive been busy recently and havent gotten around to fixing it. I do notice that sometimes when I go passed 4500 rpms andthe boost leaks out, when I shift my boost gauge stops at around 0 psi, and if I keep it floored, it will all the sudden spool up in a few seconds, or if I let off and floor it again it will work..... weird... tomorrow Im ripping apart the UIM and replacing the lines, or should I just leave it for now since It looks like they are all good and get u the readings fro the CRV and CCV or whatever.?

 

Get those vacuum/pressure readings first, and if they're normal then you can tear it up.

 

sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead but i have a question

today i installed my blitz sus filter with polished hard pipes and my rubber hose that goes from the crv to the air filter is about 1 inch too short.. so i thought i didnt need to connect it since im non sequential..

is that correct?

can i vent the crv to the atmosphere?

after i installed everything, i just couldnt wait anymore so i went for a quick 10 minute drive, it may be me but it seem like the response is hell of alot better when the turbos spools..i get 8-9psi strong (i have the turboxs boost controller, set at low boost currently)..before this blitz i had the old school RE/greddy filter with the stock rubber intake hoses..i can really feel the difference.. really..

so what about the crv? is it safe to leave it vented into the atmosphere?

thanks for the help