my parking brake light comes on when I accelerate hard because the parking brake handle is loose. Anyone have a quick and easy way to fix it? I hear you can tighten the handle to stop this.... how do you do that?

 

Check your brake fluid level.

 

well, I will check that just as a precaution, however, I'm almost positive that it's the handle because a) the handle is loose and b) the light goes out when I push the handle back down.

so does anyone know how to tighten it (the parking brake handle, that is)?

 

Takte off the center console. There is two adjustments, one for the twnsion on the cable and the other is for the sensor. I would start by tightning up the tension, I think it is suppost to be like three clicks before it ingages. Then you can adjust the sensor to make it not pick up as easy.

 

I have the same problem.

 

After you remove the console panel and adjust the tension nut, the brake light should come on after 1-2 clicks. Total travel from completely off to full on should be 7-10 clicks. Adjust the nut on the cable until it is that range.

 

tried to adjust the tension on cable and still comes on. Where is the sensor adjustment?

 

neo_omega- Seems to me the sensor is below the pivot for the hand brake- but before I guess, let me check my manual when I get home. When I adjusted the brake on mine, the tension nut fixed the problem.
Ron A.

 

the e-brake light turn on when hit rough road. I'm sure the e-brake didn't engage, or else I won't be here. The e-brake is kind of loose on the first click. But the cable is not loose at all. I opened it up and adjust the cable and it doesn't help. So I guess I will need to adjust the sensor a bit to make loose a bit. So it won't go active unless it's in first click.

 

I will second the opinion of checking the fluid level first. I swore mine was the e-brake cable adjustment because my light came on only under acceleration. Turns out it just needed a little fluid; it doesn't take much to make the level sensor trip.

 

neo_omega- Instructions for parking brake switch from factory repair manual.
1 remove console
2 disconnect connector from switch. switch is on left bottom of brake pivot.
3 pull brake handle and check for continuity between the switch terminal and a ground
brake released-should have no continuity
brake pulled-should have continuity
4 if not as above, manual says switch should be replaced.

to install switch
1 install switch so it contacts the brake lever when the lever is fully released
2 turn on ignition switch and check if the brake light comes on at one click when the lever is pulled

Don't know if this helps, there may not be much of an adjustment for the switch.

 

I had the same problem. I changed my brake fluid and the light stopped coming on. I also noticed that the problem got progressively worse.

 

I will try the brake fluid. I was messing with the sensor for about 45 minutes and I got the sensor to turn the light off around 3 clicks by puting a little 1cm peice of rubber on the parking brake lever where it contacts the sensor. But when I started driving the car, it would not go off. The brake fluid makes the most sense as of now.

 

(old thread but....)

Another note, I had this problem before too and it was my brake pads. Just something else to check.

 

same for me - new rear pads fixed the problem.

 

Adding brake fluid fixed the problem for me.

 

I had that same problem too. I first saw it when I would accelerate hard. Mine was fixed when I added some brake fluid.

 

mine has been getting worse and worse. its now permanently on. no matter what. I also just recently replaced the brake pads, around 1000 miles ago or so. I also filled up the brake fluid. What to do now? is the light supposed to turn on before the parking brake clicks? if I pull up on the brake, the light turns on just before the first click. anyhow, if I start the car, and put the brake down, the light goes off. However, the second i back out of a space or a garage, and get on the gas, it goes on and stays that way. Should I try changing the tension or something? it seems tight, and doesn't really travel that far to fully engage though. Help appreciated.

 

That's almost exactly how mine is. Except my rear pads are pretty thin and my light comes on and STAY on when foward acceleration or rough road occurs. Well, like the thread says... you checked off 2 of 4 things. You got new pads and checks your fluid level but have you checked the tension and the continuity between the switch? My light comes on RIGHT at the first click and I believe that's how it's supposed to be. (I have no idea what the manual states, this is my opinion) But I'm still going to check tension and switch continuity.

Jeremy

 

also, I ever since I've changed the pads, they're super squealy. Every time I come to a stop and am under light braking, they squeal like pigs. adding the brake disc quiet goop to the back of the pads, and shims removes the sound for about 3 days or so, then the sound comes back. Is something besides dirt causing this, and is there a way to remove this annoying sound? Im running the cheap napa brand pads, only they're supposed to be the "premium performance" ones. Apparently theres a grade below the ones I have. In any event, would this have anything to do with the brake light coming on? its weird that its coming on now, and hasn't for the first 1000 miles.

 

^did you grease those thin plates that go behind the pads when you installed?

 

Putting brake quiet will only solve brake component vibration. If your pads are gone and are squealing like pigs... your rotor and brake pads could be glazed and only a good resurfacing and replacement can fix that .

Jeremy

 

my pads are NOT gone. They have less than 1k miles on them. and they squeal. the rotors are glazed. ok. haven't heard that yet. and yes. I put brake disc quiet on the shims, both sides, and the backs of the pads. steel wooled the retaining pins to remove sludge and oiled them. Grr. Thx for the suggestions though.