I just installed the Blitz SBC-ID boost controller and here is what I have on my car:
DP
High flow main cat
Greddy catback
Custom intake
under drive pulleys
Greddy BOV
Fluidyne radiator
Efini Y-pipe
Pettit unlimited ECU (or is it?)
Question # 1.
I purchased the used Pettit unlimited ECU from someone on the partstrader site for 600.00. I thought it's good for boosts up to 14.7 psi, but when I tried to setup different boost levels as soon as it passes 11.5 psi and 6000 rpm the car started to sputter and choke, what's up? How can I verify what I have is actually a real Pettit unlimited ECU (besides the Pettit sticker on the cover plate)
Question # 2.
For the sequential turbo system, do I have to install a manual prespool control to get equal first and second turbo response? Right now the second turbo kicks higher than the first, the higher the boost setting the bigger the difference.

Thanks for your help.

 

what i did to verify my pettit was real was open her up,ive worked with circt boards b4 so it want anyhting scary...open it up and un do the oards from the ecu box. you ounly need to losten 1 and it should open up and youll see the e-prom socket witha aditional board on it..its hard to describe but there will be a board in the on one of the biger boards....

my pettit never did that, it got roguh one time when i changed plug wires and got a bad set of wires

as far as the pre spool goes i dunknow if the blitz can controll both or if you have to ...i was only seq for the first 3 months i had the car

 

I don't see an innercooler on your list. I think the stock i/c is only good for 12psi so maybe it was getting to hot.

 

O.K I am going to open up the ecu to do the verification.
In the mean time if I understand it correctly, I see two possible causes for the stumbling/hesitation/sputtering at high rpms.
1. Possible bad ignition component (ie. plugs, wires or even coils)
2. Upgrade the IC

Does anyone else have any other ideas??

 

Might be running too rich? Mine does that.
~Tom

 

Isn't it true that the higher the boost the leaner you run? If that is the case then how can it be running too rich??
Somebody else out there must have experienced similar problems before, looking at all the mods that have been done on some of the cars.
I am curiouse to know too, it's happening to my car as well.

Anyone.......Anyone.........Bueller ????

 

cant be the IC... i have the pettit unlimited and ran it on stock IC for about 2 months without a problem. it just ran real rich.

oh and by the way... did you buy it from someone in CA? i know theres a difference in CA ecus and the rest of the country's ecus. not sure if it could cause this problem, but theres a chance it could be.

 

Here is my pettit ecu.. Well @ least i hope it a pettit unit~
http://216.227.34.77/11/

 

That's a pettit ecu, the daughter board is right next to your thumb, that is not there in the stock ecu. I had a different sticker on my chips though, it might be they switched chip programmers.

http://216.227.34.77/11/imagepages/image9.htm

 

Just wondering, who did you buy your ECU from on partstrader? Anyone have good experience with parts trader before?

 

Answer to question #2 is: You have the boost controller hooked up incorrectly! It sounds like you only hooked up the secondary wastegate to the boost controller. What you need to do is tee both the primary and secondary turbo wastegate vacuum lines together and then run them to the boost controller.

 

Ummmm, the twin seq turbo system has only one wastegate control. The secondary is controlled by a prespool and turbo control valve. I believe the prespool is the one that needs to be cut back. When increasing the boost using a boost controller. Does anyone have a different setup?? (for seq twins)

 

I've purchased things off of the parts trader. I guess the reliablity of the trader rests on who's doing the selling.

 

My pettit ecu runs @ about 13psi but really rich. I just got my exhaust on so I should be running really well.
By the way...what sort of custom intake to you have?

 

Wheeewww, I just checked the inside of my ecu, it is a modified one, that makes me feel a little better.
So that eliminates one possible problem.
How many tuning experts think it's in the ignition system (mis-firing)?? Right now, I have a set of NGK 7s and 9s (less than 500miles on those) and I am using the Nology fire wire (you know, the ones that has the capacitors and ground wires on them). I have a set of NGK wires on order. God, I hope there is nothing wrong with the coils.
I do have a FMIC that will be installed shortly, but I really don't think that is the cause of the problem. Anything short of 10 psi works fine, when I dial in 11 psi, the sputtering (I believe some people refer to it as high rpm breakup??) begins.
Oh, and I have to install a needle valve to drop the pre-spool as well.

 

I have custom made 3" polished aluminum pipes with heat shielded conic filters.
@ 13 psi, do you get any sputtering at high rpms (~6k to redline)?

 

Right now I don't get past 5 psi b4 I start to loose everything. I think that my gas is bad so I have to drain it. I will let you know once I get that done. Why don't you meet w/ us @ one of our GA meetings? We would all love to see your car...I would especially love to see that intake. How much by the way and where can I get it?

 

I had this problem on mine, it was a bad coil. The coil had about 98k miles on it. Check your coils.

lane

 

when i was runnin my pettit unlimited it pulled like a bat outa hell all the way to 8k @ 15psi



i had a similar brake up when i swiched to msd wired, i got a bad set b/c i double checked connections and when i put stock ones on it worked fine, but mine started @ 4k under any load, and would throw the a/f all over the place and then towards lean, needless to say i got off it, limped home swapwed wired in 25min , then went back out and all was fine

 

O.K. so I've got one for coil and one for wires, since I've got wires on the way, I'll try those out first. I hope those coils are not going to cost an arm and a leg.

 

rx7ofmine,

Had a similar problem with a friends FD years ago when I had first started playing with them... The car ran fine but it was time for a tune-up so I put the "BEST" wires I could on, Nology. Those wires suck on RX7s... When you go back to standard replacement NGK wires the car should run fine.
My friends ran up to about 6k then broke up with the Nology wires. Nology said any time you use their wires you need to advance the timing quite a bit. Well I wasn't about to try playing with the timing at that level of tuning the car way back then, so I've stuck with the good ole NGKs ever since, and even on the PFCs when you start messing with fuel and timing even on Single turbo setups the NGKs still work fine.

Even guys like Ray Lockhead don't bother using those expensive *** Nology wires...

Coil pack going bad tends to be more of a miss type of thing, and from your email it seems more likely to be the wires...

 

i have the taylor spiro pro wires...got em from summit, cheap and the best ive tired so far

 

Holy $h!t, the coils are around $ 150.00 ea and the danm igniter thing is almost $ 500.00. God I hope it's the wires.
Has anyone else had problems with their ign coils, or are they pretty robust (keeping my fingers X)??

 

My friend had the same problem, but at stock boost levels. Turned out to be a bad connector on one of the coils. I'd check all of the plastic connectors to the ingnition system. The heat kills the engine plastics.

eric

 

hapa's got a point there... also I've had one come in that was thought to have a bad coil and it turned out to be one of the pins got shoved a little bit out of the harness connector. So it's good to check all of that really carefully.
I'd say yes, the coils are pretty robust. I've only really had to replace one coil so far with a new one, and that was because the plug wire end got pretty fused into one of them, and that one actually still fired...