84 GS and some questions. (sort of long)
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Driver's Seat
84 GS and some questions. (sort of long)
Well, I whent and checked out an 84 GS today. It was in pretty good shape. A little rust on the driver fender but it was pretty small. Paint was chipped a bit on the back and a little around the rest of the body, but not terribly ugly I guess. Interior was in good shape. 226,000km on car/engine. Needs new brake master cylinder.
Now here is what I am wondering. I got it to start instantly with no problems once we charged the battery. It idles and runs on its own while warming up, but once it is warmed up it will not idle on its own at all, just goes down to like 200rpm and bounces for about 5 seconds, then stalls out. I did not test compression, but did remove plugs and listened to pulses. They all sounded good and strong, and I have an FC with low compression in rear rotor so I know what to compare it to for listening for weak pulses. It looks like it needs new plugs and wires. And needs a tuneup for sure.
Question is:
Anyone know what may be causing it to not idle? Once the choke pops in on its own when engine is warmed up is when it stalls out. If you have choke open it does not stall out or if you rev it then it will not stall out. Any ideas?
I could not test drive it as the brakes do not work because the master cylinder needs replacing and the pedal just goes to the floor and does nothing, but lines have been bled by a mechanic so it was done right.
Thanks for any info.
later
-Justin
Now here is what I am wondering. I got it to start instantly with no problems once we charged the battery. It idles and runs on its own while warming up, but once it is warmed up it will not idle on its own at all, just goes down to like 200rpm and bounces for about 5 seconds, then stalls out. I did not test compression, but did remove plugs and listened to pulses. They all sounded good and strong, and I have an FC with low compression in rear rotor so I know what to compare it to for listening for weak pulses. It looks like it needs new plugs and wires. And needs a tuneup for sure.
Question is:
Anyone know what may be causing it to not idle? Once the choke pops in on its own when engine is warmed up is when it stalls out. If you have choke open it does not stall out or if you rev it then it will not stall out. Any ideas?
I could not test drive it as the brakes do not work because the master cylinder needs replacing and the pedal just goes to the floor and does nothing, but lines have been bled by a mechanic so it was done right.
Thanks for any info.
later
-Justin
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 3
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
There could be any number of things preventing the car from keeping an idle. I'd plug the idle compensator tube, and see if that helps. Its the smaller of the two hoses near the rear of the air cleaner on the drivers side. At least, that's where it is on my '79.
The idle speed and mixture screws on the carb could be set wrong as well. Those are on the base of the carb. Clockwise on the mixture screw leans it out, and clockwise on the idle screw lowers the idle speed.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable about the later carbs will chime in with some other suggestions as well. To me, if the car starts easily when cold and warmed, and if there isn't a big blue cloud upon every startup, the motor should be good to go. My '82 GS had 240,000 kms on the clock when I sold it, and it still ran good and smoked very little.
As far as the whole car goes, check under the storage bins for rust, play with the wheel to see how sloppy the steering box is, and look for any bad oil leaks from the motor, diff and transmission. It's hard to make a determination without driving the car, so be very careful to check all the details before making an offer.
Good luck.
The idle speed and mixture screws on the carb could be set wrong as well. Those are on the base of the carb. Clockwise on the mixture screw leans it out, and clockwise on the idle screw lowers the idle speed.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable about the later carbs will chime in with some other suggestions as well. To me, if the car starts easily when cold and warmed, and if there isn't a big blue cloud upon every startup, the motor should be good to go. My '82 GS had 240,000 kms on the clock when I sold it, and it still ran good and smoked very little.
As far as the whole car goes, check under the storage bins for rust, play with the wheel to see how sloppy the steering box is, and look for any bad oil leaks from the motor, diff and transmission. It's hard to make a determination without driving the car, so be very careful to check all the details before making an offer.
Good luck.