turbo tranny in GTU
Passenger
Posts: n/a
turbo tranny in GTU
i have a 1988 rx-7 GTU 5 speed. obviously it is an n/a, but here's the deal. i can get a turbo II tranny from any year second gen, but i need to know if it will fit.
after doing a little research, it seems like i may have some difficulty matching up to the flywheel. it also seems like it shouldn't be a problem mounting to the limited slip rear of the GTU.
i need help ASAP! thanks in advance.
after doing a little research, it seems like i may have some difficulty matching up to the flywheel. it also seems like it shouldn't be a problem mounting to the limited slip rear of the GTU.
i need help ASAP! thanks in advance.
You will need a TII flywheel. I know for sure that you need the TII driveshaft, diff and halfshafts. You basicly need the whole drivetrain IIRC. One of my buddies tried to mate a TII diff flange onto his GTUs diff (because of the 4.3 gears) but the flange was shorter/longer than the diff. I would just get the whole TII drivetrain to simplify things. You will also need a clutch slave cylinder for a TII along with the PP and clutch plate.
Correct me if I am wrong, but that is the way I remember it.
Correct me if I am wrong, but that is the way I remember it.
I looked into it; its too much work. You need the TII starter, flywheel, pp, driveshaft, and halfshafts.
Also possibly a TII wiring harness. The swap requires some fabrication. Mazda did not make the TII transmission and easy swap for other RX-7's. Most any other 1st or 2nd gen '7 tranny will go in pretty easily, but not the TII.
Also possibly a TII wiring harness. The swap requires some fabrication. Mazda did not make the TII transmission and easy swap for other RX-7's. Most any other 1st or 2nd gen '7 tranny will go in pretty easily, but not the TII.
I used to have an article on my site about 6 years ago with a nice how-to list, but I think it got left behind years ago...
Anways, you do not have to swap the rear end and half-shafts. The pilot on both TII and NA pinion flanges are the same, and you only need to notch the flange on the driveshaft for it to fit because of the slightly larger bolt pattern. A small stone on a dremel makes quick work of this versus the use-the-drillbit-as-a-grinder-technique. Clutch master and slave may also be retained. There is no wiring difference. No parts need to be fabricated, just some grinding if you don't want to mess with the rear end. My NA rear held up to over 450HP until the day I installed slicks. My rear end was swapped to a TII rear end the same day I installed slicks. Do the math!
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
You should be able to pick all this up for less than $500 used, although I would not trust a used clutch + PP! I did this over 8 years ago, and spent $800, and one afternoon with no lift. BUY a good pilot bearing puller, and a 2 1/8" socket + 3/4" --> 1/2" adapter so it will fit a standard gun. I would be happy to elaborate if anyone is interested.
Anways, you do not have to swap the rear end and half-shafts. The pilot on both TII and NA pinion flanges are the same, and you only need to notch the flange on the driveshaft for it to fit because of the slightly larger bolt pattern. A small stone on a dremel makes quick work of this versus the use-the-drillbit-as-a-grinder-technique. Clutch master and slave may also be retained. There is no wiring difference. No parts need to be fabricated, just some grinding if you don't want to mess with the rear end. My NA rear held up to over 450HP until the day I installed slicks. My rear end was swapped to a TII rear end the same day I installed slicks. Do the math!
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
You should be able to pick all this up for less than $500 used, although I would not trust a used clutch + PP! I did this over 8 years ago, and spent $800, and one afternoon with no lift. BUY a good pilot bearing puller, and a 2 1/8" socket + 3/4" --> 1/2" adapter so it will fit a standard gun. I would be happy to elaborate if anyone is interested.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth, Texas, USA, Earth, Solar System...
Originally posted by Exit13B
I used to have an article on my site about 6 years ago with a nice how-to list, but I think it got left behind years ago...
Anways, you do not have to swap the rear end and half-shafts. The pilot on both TII and NA pinion flanges are the same, and you only need to notch the flange on the driveshaft for it to fit because of the slightly larger bolt pattern. A small stone on a dremel makes quick work of this versus the use-the-drillbit-as-a-grinder-technique. Clutch master and slave may also be retained. There is no wiring difference. No parts need to be fabricated, just some grinding if you don't want to mess with the rear end. My NA rear held up to over 450HP until the day I installed slicks. My rear end was swapped to a TII rear end the same day I installed slicks. Do the math!
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
You should be able to pick all this up for less than $500 used, although I would not trust a used clutch + PP! I did this over 8 years ago, and spent $800, and one afternoon with no lift. BUY a good pilot bearing puller, and a 2 1/8" socket + 3/4" --> 1/2" adapter so it will fit a standard gun. I would be happy to elaborate if anyone is interested.
I used to have an article on my site about 6 years ago with a nice how-to list, but I think it got left behind years ago...
Anways, you do not have to swap the rear end and half-shafts. The pilot on both TII and NA pinion flanges are the same, and you only need to notch the flange on the driveshaft for it to fit because of the slightly larger bolt pattern. A small stone on a dremel makes quick work of this versus the use-the-drillbit-as-a-grinder-technique. Clutch master and slave may also be retained. There is no wiring difference. No parts need to be fabricated, just some grinding if you don't want to mess with the rear end. My NA rear held up to over 450HP until the day I installed slicks. My rear end was swapped to a TII rear end the same day I installed slicks. Do the math!
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
You should be able to pick all this up for less than $500 used, although I would not trust a used clutch + PP! I did this over 8 years ago, and spent $800, and one afternoon with no lift. BUY a good pilot bearing puller, and a 2 1/8" socket + 3/4" --> 1/2" adapter so it will fit a standard gun. I would be happy to elaborate if anyone is interested.
Also, I have heard, but have not tested myself, that you can use a driveshaft from an AUTOMATIC car with the TII transmission and NA differential. You might pick one up used (cheap) and test it.
Brad
Originally posted by Exit13B
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
Here is the official list:
TII Transmission (obviously!)
TII Flywheel / Clutch / Pressure Plate / TO + Pilot bearings
TII Driveshaft
TII Starter
TII transmission
TII flywheel, clutch, etc.
N/A automatic driveshaft
TII starter
Now if you want to do the true swap, then you would also swap the differential, in which case you would use the TII driveshaft with no fitment problems.
Last edited by MasteRX; Aug 21, 2001 at 01:27 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
josef 91 vert
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
23
Sep 3, 2015 11:20 AM



