Oil temps over 250°F in a few laps?
05-24-06, 07:09 PM
#16
Originally Posted by hIGGI
We just had driftchallenge weekend, 2 days of beating up the car and oil temps have not went higher than 100C in my car. On highway, i am staying in 70-80C range, whenever cruising or boosting, as long as car is moving forward and there is airflow.
05-26-06, 11:30 AM
#24
Originally Posted by hondahater
um...................wacky you are a bit wacky!
I did the same way before but I took one of the t-stats out and plugged up the by-pass. then I switched to a RX-2 oil cooler for secondary. Rx-2's t-stat is in the oil inlet fitting, not internal. Now, Im back to single OC since its useless for street car.
05-26-06, 07:22 PM
#25
Higgi, that is a nice job on the install and great work on the ducting.
I almsot did the same setup as you basically.
My only complaint about that setup is that the coolers are run in series instead of parallel and also that only one of them is getting fresh air, further reducing the effectiveness of the secondary cooler beyond its disadvantage of running in series.
Not to mention that it is one more thing in front of the radiator.
Here is what I ended up doing.
I used a fluidyne oil cooler which is much thicker and has more surface area than the stock oil cooler. Also it has a better endtank and fin design along with more rows. I also ran a remote t-stat since this car also sees the street along with road courses.
This fluidyne cooler has been proven by several racers to cool better than two factory oil coolers run in either series or parallel. It was installed in the facory location with the original mounts turned around.
I made the ducting and designed it to come apart in less that one minute. Six camlocks hold the undertray on (two to the sidepanels and one to the radiator on each side) and one bolt each for the side panel secures it to the underside of the frame rail. Not pictured is the fiberglas splitter.
I almsot did the same setup as you basically.
My only complaint about that setup is that the coolers are run in series instead of parallel and also that only one of them is getting fresh air, further reducing the effectiveness of the secondary cooler beyond its disadvantage of running in series.
Not to mention that it is one more thing in front of the radiator.
Here is what I ended up doing.
I used a fluidyne oil cooler which is much thicker and has more surface area than the stock oil cooler. Also it has a better endtank and fin design along with more rows. I also ran a remote t-stat since this car also sees the street along with road courses.
This fluidyne cooler has been proven by several racers to cool better than two factory oil coolers run in either series or parallel. It was installed in the facory location with the original mounts turned around.
I made the ducting and designed it to come apart in less that one minute. Six camlocks hold the undertray on (two to the sidepanels and one to the radiator on each side) and one bolt each for the side panel secures it to the underside of the frame rail. Not pictured is the fiberglas splitter.
05-26-06, 08:31 PM
#28
The large aluminum block is not a distribution block, it is the oil t-stat.
The fitting at the top of the oil cooler is just a -6an cap/plug.
Here is the Summit parts list which includes all the essential fittings for the oil cooler along with a t-stat and it's minimum required fittings.
The -10an line and hose ends are not included on the list. How you plumb it is up to you.
Note:
With the -12an to -10an flare reducers, you need to chop off about a 1/3" of the -12 side so the 37' angle seats seal. Otherwise you end up bottoming the reducer out on the endtank and it won't seal properly. I won't tell you how I know this.
AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99
For reference:
Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"
The fitting at the top of the oil cooler is just a -6an cap/plug.
Here is the Summit parts list which includes all the essential fittings for the oil cooler along with a t-stat and it's minimum required fittings.
The -10an line and hose ends are not included on the list. How you plumb it is up to you.
Note:
With the -12an to -10an flare reducers, you need to chop off about a 1/3" of the -12 side so the 37' angle seats seal. Otherwise you end up bottoming the reducer out on the endtank and it won't seal properly. I won't tell you how I know this.
AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99
For reference:
Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"
05-26-06, 08:51 PM
#29
Awesome. Thanks for the part numbers. But why reduce to -10. You can buy the fittings to fit as -12? ) I guess for the oil thermostat. I was thinking of not running it.
Also another question. Why the 4 lines into the oil thermostate?
Also do you have picture that show how you used the exisiting bracket assemble?
Thanks
Also another question. Why the 4 lines into the oil thermostate?
Also do you have picture that show how you used the exisiting bracket assemble?
Thanks
Last edited by IAN; 05-26-06 at 09:04 PM.
05-26-06, 11:15 PM
#30
Former Rx7 *****
Join Date: Nov 2001
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Originally Posted by IAN
Awesome. Thanks for the part numbers. But why reduce to -10. You can buy the fittings to fit as -12? ) I guess for the oil thermostat. I was thinking of not running it.
Also another question. Why the 4 lines into the oil thermostate?
Also do you have picture that show how you used the exisiting bracket assemble?
Thanks
Also another question. Why the 4 lines into the oil thermostate?
Also do you have picture that show how you used the exisiting bracket assemble?
Thanks
1. Input from motor's oil pump
2. output from thermostat to oil cooler
3. Main exit
4. Oil cooler return oil (cooled oil).
Without number 4, you would need to run a T to goto the motor so that either bypassed oil not at high temp and cooled oil can go back to the motor...
See pics