anyone ever had coils that are VERY hot to the touch after a 1/2 hour run or equivalent?

im assuming when its really hot like that, it's failed or not up to par..

 

Dude.. how many time are you going to post this???? 8 times is way way too many.

They should be warm just from the engine running, and even warmer if just idleing (no air flow).

 

Electrical resistance generates heat. Your coils should have low resistance (see factory spec,). Do the resistance test(repair manual) on your coils to see if they are within spec. Check your plug wires while your at it!
B

 

Pull the stick outta your ******* ***.
He has posted one thread about getting his car running smoothly, and It wasn't a topic about the coils.

 

actually my internet was lagging right out and my modem wasnt "sending" when i clicked post thread

so i clicked it a bucnha times then closed the window..

WAY TO GO, ME!!!

sorry about taht you guys

they were um.. burn-your-fingers-hot man.. thats why i posted.. seeing if anyone else had experienced the same thing..

 

I guess we have to put up with the slow ones too....

 

my... CABLE modem..

dont know why... but i was getting no response and was assuming i had to shutdown and reset the modem..

ANYWAYS though.. back on topic..

 

don't worry about them they do get hot try touching them after you've been on the track

 

i pulled the trailings out (coil(s)) and it ran the same without them....

i was only driving for 1/2 hour and it wasnt hard driving though..

speaking of which, are s4 and s5 coils interchangeable?

and (on my 3rd edit of this post )
one thing i also noticed (with the trailing coil hot as hell) the leading was.. not even warm..

 

your coils need a front mount intercooler.

 

 

Is it both the trailing and leading, or just one (which?)?

Coils should be warm, but not HOT. Seriously hot indicates an internal short.

 

like i was saying the lead wasnt even that warm at all.. barely..

the trailing was HOT bigtime.. i replaced it though.. i had the car running with the new coil and it ran a little smoother, so i went to mount it and it was arc-ing on the mount when i jiggled it.. (just a tad)

all that tells me is that its grounded out on the mount.. which it IS suppost to be, right? or not..

just thought id pitch out ALL the info, any tidbit could be of help to diagnose, right?

i idled it up to operating temp with the new one all mounted up (not really new, just another functional one) and it wasnt too warm.. but a tad warm.. just like the lead

but like i said after a 1/2 hour drive with the old trailing, the lead was really cool and the trailing was ridiculously hot

 

The coil grounds to the car. Make sure that the bolt holes and area are clean and free from rust. When you replaced the coil, did you replace the ignitor as well? And the plugs and wires?

 

no, just the 3 bolts that are holding it down as a unit.. where is the ignitor located?

i didnt clean it up from rust i should do that tomorrow too.. there isnt any rust, but its not the cleanest mount..

the plugs are a lil oily from the MMO treatment it had and theyre on order for tomorrow, and the wires are new (the plug wires)

 

If you just unbolted, then you replaced the ignitor as well....Also, you will want to check ALL connections around the trailing coil.

 

thats what i thought.. let me get this straight.. theres 2 separate coils for the trailing and its mounted to the ignitor which is all attached if you just unbolt right?

the lead has one coil thats shared and one igniter too (from what i can see by its structure as opposed to the trail)

thats just my guess.. im still a newb, dont forget

AND while we are on the topic.. are the trailing plugs STRICTLY for emissions? or do they play a role in the combustion/power?

 

detach them and find out

 

well i was just curious..

it ran a little smoother with the new trailing coils

and i started it up WITHOUT the old trailing coils even IN the car (sitting on the workbench) and it ran the same way it did with the old ones in it..

 

Number one, No Flaming. Your post is way out of line, he posted the same thread 9 times and I had to delete 8 of them.

And yes it was and is only about the coils... that is why he asked:

 

it was just a mistake dude - i said it once and ill say it again - sorry about that - now lets get past it!

 

Dont sweat it man. This site is incredibly slow at certain times of the day (Ie: most of them!). I get on here in the early morning as it is the only time of day (east coast) that this thing responds like a normal website. Dont let old crabby pants get you down........

 

lol thanks dude.. i guess i should suspect as much with how many posts per day this site gets!

 

No worries, now that you are aware, it is a non-issue.

But I was pissed at charger- for his response.

And yes to go back on subject, the trailing coils are not needed to run the engine, however, they are needed for emissions and smoothness.

Also it is rare for a an FC coil or coil pack to fail. You might want to look into what went wrong further.

Has there been a voltage issue, or loose plug that could have caused arcing? Perhaps a bad spark plug cable?

 

well im starting to think its the spark plug cables (BUT they LOOK so FRESH and so CLEAN!)

umm i put in new plugs - no real difference
trailing coil got decently hot again after a 1/2 hour drive
i swapped lead coils with another functional one - no difference
car ran pretty well the same with small differences with the TPS disconnected - not quite as smooth but it still ran pretty well the same
wouldnt start (due to no spark it would seem) with CAS disconnected (of course.. just testing stuff out)

i wiggled the lead coil (not bolted but sitting on the mount) and pulled it away a bit from the ground and it stalled out.. so i cleaned up the ground areas on it and it still ran pretty well the same