temp gauge thermostat sensor location good for readings?
#1
temp gauge thermostat sensor location good for readings?
I have a greddy temp gauge looking to hook it up somewhere. Is it feasible to use the stock temperature sensor location on the top of the thermostat housing?
Duh...the temperature will not be correct until the thermostat opens, but the temps are always hotter after it opens and close to its hottest point right when the coolant comes out of the water pump. And I don't rag on the car unless its fully warmed up...meaning the tstat is open, thus the sensor reading the right temps? am I wrong? ...advice please.
ty
Duh...the temperature will not be correct until the thermostat opens, but the temps are always hotter after it opens and close to its hottest point right when the coolant comes out of the water pump. And I don't rag on the car unless its fully warmed up...meaning the tstat is open, thus the sensor reading the right temps? am I wrong? ...advice please.
ty
#2
Once the thermostat opens it doesnt stay open constantly, depending on the coolant temps it opens and shuts to keep the temps at a constant rate. To get accurate readings you will have to place the sensor before the thermostat, there is enough room on the water pump housing just before the thermostat to drill and tap for most sizes of sensors.
#4
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
I like to put bungs just before the radiator inlet...
ive always been a little confused on the subject og guage installs. it is hard to drill through the metal of the water pump? and wouldnt that be a bit of an inconvience because you would have to redrill and tap when ever you replaced the pump?
#5
No, I get a piece of steel pipe and weld a nut to it that the sensor will bolt into, then splice the pipe into the radiator hose on the inlet side. From there you get the temps at their hottest.
You should NEVER tap into the waterpump housing it's self...never never never.
You should NEVER tap into the waterpump housing it's self...never never never.
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#9
That wasn't mentioned here. If you say "just tap the w/p housing" some newb is gonna go start drilling holes in his car. And there are far better places to put the sensor...like in the stick location...
#10
wouldnt using your method would result in lower coolant temp readings than the motor actually has? for best and most accurate result you should drill and tap the water pump housing and install the sensor there, as that part of the cooling system is where the coolant hasn't been cooled down yet... ?
#11
If you put it in the wp housing b4 the tstat it most accurately tells the actual water temp in the block as opposed to after the T stat which would be off by a few degrees. Also if you put it after your tstat and it happens to fail you wouldnt know unless you kept an eye on your stock gauge. Unfortunately for s5s there is only 3 settings on the stock temp gauge cold, warm, and overheated couple minutes ago. I guess it doesnt really matter where you put it as long as you know how much the temperature change from the block to where you put the gauge is.
#12
Originally Posted by SidewaysFC
I have a greddy temp gauge looking to hook it up somewhere. Is it feasible to use the stock temperature sensor location on the top of the thermostat housing?
You can put it there but it's far from ideal. Not only will the gauge read wrong until the thermostat opens, but it will continue to read wrong if the 'stat sticks closed, meaning you'll have no indication of your rapidly melting motor.
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
You should NEVER tap into the waterpump housing it's self...never never never.
too much debris in the system...
That wasn't mentioned here. If you say "just tap the w/p housing" some newb is gonna go start drilling holes in his car.
And there are far better places to put the sensor...like in the stick location...
Last edited by NZConvertible; 10-26-04 at 04:22 AM.
#13
My argument was to make it clear that tapping things on the car should be avoided...and I really think that the pump housing isn't that great (despite the stock ECU temp sensor location) because flow isn't constant in the area. At any time you could be reading an accurate temp or a stale temp, depending on the thermostate and engine speed and other things. I also thought that the ECU only read the temps as "below and certain degree" and "above a certain degree"...? I didn't know it measured specifics.
The stock location IS too small for sensors usually sold with aftermarket guages but a quick call to the manufacturer will reveal what senders are available and from who that are compatible with both the block and the guage. I use Autometer guages (not the best, I know) and, by calling their customer service number, I got a list of direct plug-and-play senders for both oil psi and water temp guages to fit both my MKIII Supra and 86 Porsche 944. I have yet to call them about the 7, though....might have a hard time with it...:s
You're right about the adapters...the only ones acceptable are the ones through which the core of the sender extends fully through them.
The stock location IS too small for sensors usually sold with aftermarket guages but a quick call to the manufacturer will reveal what senders are available and from who that are compatible with both the block and the guage. I use Autometer guages (not the best, I know) and, by calling their customer service number, I got a list of direct plug-and-play senders for both oil psi and water temp guages to fit both my MKIII Supra and 86 Porsche 944. I have yet to call them about the 7, though....might have a hard time with it...:s
You're right about the adapters...the only ones acceptable are the ones through which the core of the sender extends fully through them.
Last edited by Makenzie71; 10-26-04 at 04:36 AM.
#14
den - i didn't know the tstat opens and closes to keep the temps at some sort of equilibrium (i hope this word works cause i just saw the movie - it freakin rocks!)
NZ - why? the coolant fills up the area the adaptar creates anyway...the sender probe would be covered with passing coolant regardless
...i need a new water pump anyway...seals went bad and its leaking out of the vapor hole. i'll just have the replacement tapped. anything else i should do while i have to swap water pumps?
NZ - why? the coolant fills up the area the adaptar creates anyway...the sender probe would be covered with passing coolant regardless
...i need a new water pump anyway...seals went bad and its leaking out of the vapor hole. i'll just have the replacement tapped. anything else i should do while i have to swap water pumps?
#15
Originally Posted by SidewaysFC
NZ - why? the coolant fills up the area the adaptar creates anyway...the sender probe would be covered with passing coolant regardless
#16
That is the stat's job, to keep the temps constant, the radiator alone cannot reduce the coolant temp to a constant level. The coolant which is diverted to the rad when the stat opens will always be between a certain temp, but the effectiveness of the radiator changes. e.g - If it is hot outside the air cooling the rad will be hotter therefor the coolant leaving the rad will not be as cool as it would have been had it had been through the rad on a cold day with cold air passing through. If the stat opened and stayed open all the time the weather, speed you are travelling and and how many revs you are doing would all control the temps which would be bad as these all vary alot.
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