Here is the progression of my TII Adventure. Turbo looked decent, no excessive play, put being **** retentive I decided to rebuild it. Caleed Turbo City, rebuild kit was 110 + 17 shipping for UPS blue label. Unit arrived in 2 days as promised!

Here is the assembled "cartridge", as removed from the manifold

 

This pic shows the compressor wheel removed from the turbine shaft. To remove hold the nut on the turbine end with a 12mm 12pt socket and loosen the compressor nut with a 10 \mm open end wrench. A "dead-blow" hammer is used to tap the shaft free. DO NOT DROP THE SHAFT OR COMPRESSOR WHEEL:YOU WILL BEND A BLADE!!!

 

This is a shot of the seal plate and thrust bearing assembly

 

The Compressor wheel after bead blast cleaning. Bead Blasting was accomplished with #80 glass bead @ 40 PSIG

 

Bead blasting didn't get rid of the rusted look on the hot side?

 

Haven't bead blasted it yet, it is spending the night in the dip tank

 

One glitch I have run into, The retaining ring pliers neded are Very small. Most "plier kits" have a tip of .038" and larger. You will need a set with a .023" Tip. I ordred mine from MSC Supply.

 

Any helpful tips from the pros when I reassemble it tonight?

 

To the top , since a member asked and search does not function

 

is it true that it has to be balanced after rebuilding?

 

It should be, but I match marked mine before disassembly. On the compressor you will find a number stamped and on the turbine you will find a letter, make a note of how these are orientated to each other. Balancing at a shop is ~75-100 + shipping.

 

Have you reinstalled it yet? I'm interested to know how it turns out.

Todd

 

Installing on engine today

 

Well......???? How did it do?

 

Haven't finished yet. F@$%!% welder blew up today, so that setd me further back/

 

The Welder Blew up? Damn dude gotta be nice to those things.......................

 

Look in the for sale section, I am having a garage sale to buy a new welder!!

 

erm... even if you marked the parts for re-assembly... bead blasting does remove some material, which might throw the blade a little off balance... remember, it spins at 100k rpm, it will take a smaller amount of imbalance to cause a problem than it would on a tire or something. This is what I'm thinking anyway...

 

OK, went down to the shop to assemble tonite:
Here are the new parts layed out ready to go.

 

This shows the main bearing (1 of 2) being installed in the cartridge housing:



You can also see the craftsmane snap-ring pliers used in this article

 

Now the bad news, I killed the compressor seal!!! Too much force. A small arbor press will be used when the new one comes in...After Christmas... BAH HUMBUG

 

No to address this concern. the assembly will be a lot closer to factory balance with all the crud/build-up of 100K miles removed than it was before. AS far as base metal removal: IT IS NEGLIGIBLE!!!


Bead Tech Info Link

Available in a wide range of sizes (screens), glass beads are generally the most popular media used in most cabinets today. This all-purpose media is used for honing, polishing, peening, blending, finishing, removing light burrs, and cleaning most light foreign matter such as carbon and other surface residues from pistons and valves; and with no base-metal removal or dimensional changes to the part. Weld and solder flaws can also be detected via glass bead blasting.

 

ah, neat

 

I need a glass bead blasting cabinet to clean my NA carbon baked rotors. Nothing like that stock OMP and its dirty crankcase oil residue and carbon all over the engine

 

Here all the parts ready to be reassembled. All parts were either bead blasted or cleaned in a vibratory polisher.