Profec B questions?
06-16-02, 09:07 PM
#1
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Profec B questions?
I'm getting a loss in boost at higher rpms. Cannot hear any boost leaks. Car still pulls hard but boost falls off at aprox. 7600 rpm is about 12.5 psi from 14.5 - 15 psi at 5500 -6000 rpm.
I have been using different pills in the wastegate line for about 5 yrs.
Will the Profec give me a constant 14.5 -15 psi all the way to red-line?
thanks for all replies,
j.
I have been using different pills in the wastegate line for about 5 yrs.
Will the Profec give me a constant 14.5 -15 psi all the way to red-line?
thanks for all replies,
j.
06-17-02, 01:36 AM
#4
i've ordered a profec b... i've got intake, catback, midpipe, and downpipe with a pettit ecu... i want to keep the boost @12psi until i get an intercooler. With the profec B alone.. will i be able to keep the boost down... i know creep will happen but i want to keep the boost down... do i need any pills with the profec B? if so.. what pills do i Need?
06-17-02, 02:04 AM
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Hi Street King,
That's a lillte disapointing to hear. I was hopeing to
fix my droping boost problem by adding a Boost controller.
Does it drop boost about the same level as the factory system?
I think a stand alone system will break my bank. There must be another way... anyone know?
jc.
That's a lillte disapointing to hear. I was hopeing to
fix my droping boost problem by adding a Boost controller.
Does it drop boost about the same level as the factory system?
I think a stand alone system will break my bank. There must be another way... anyone know?
jc.
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06-17-02, 03:55 PM
#8
My Profec B holds boost all the way to redline (and beyond).
I guess it's all in how you install it. Completly remove the WG "pill, and plug the port on the actuator that runs up to the WG solenoid valve.
Works for me, Good luck.
I guess it's all in how you install it. Completly remove the WG "pill, and plug the port on the actuator that runs up to the WG solenoid valve.
Works for me, Good luck.
06-18-02, 07:36 AM
#11
OK, install the PROFEC B just like this:
http://www.rotarypowered.com/howtoboostcontrol.html
Except also remove the hose leaving the actuator that runs to a metal pipe on the front of the motor. That metal pipe runs up to the WG solenoid valve which vents the Actuator pressure to shut the WG door.
Access to this requires removal of the air pump & intake.
The Profec B's "IN" pipe goes to the turbo, & the "OUT" pipe goes to the WG Actuator. The black Profex box REPLACES the pill.
more info:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/profec.htm
This ones a little confusing because it's all about the Profec A which has the Vent pipe, & the manifold pressure input in the one box where the B spec has the pressure input at the head unit.
The pictures are well detailed though & will inform you what pipes & hoses to screw with.
Enjoy,
Eric.
http://www.rotarypowered.com/howtoboostcontrol.html
Except also remove the hose leaving the actuator that runs to a metal pipe on the front of the motor. That metal pipe runs up to the WG solenoid valve which vents the Actuator pressure to shut the WG door.
Access to this requires removal of the air pump & intake.
The Profec B's "IN" pipe goes to the turbo, & the "OUT" pipe goes to the WG Actuator. The black Profex box REPLACES the pill.
more info:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/profec.htm
This ones a little confusing because it's all about the Profec A which has the Vent pipe, & the manifold pressure input in the one box where the B spec has the pressure input at the head unit.
The pictures are well detailed though & will inform you what pipes & hoses to screw with.
Enjoy,
Eric.
06-20-02, 02:42 PM
#13
Except also remove the hose leaving the actuator that runs to a metal pipe on the front of the motor. That metal pipe runs up to the WG solenoid valve which vents the Actuator pressure to shut the WG door.
06-20-02, 03:38 PM
#14
But you have to get at the actuator to replace the hose with the pill in it with the Profec box anyhow. The air pump isn't that hard to get out, & I find that with it out EVERYTHING seems easier to work on. (except spark plugs & stuff on that side) I guess it is all possible with the O pump in place, but I never tried it.
I'll try to snap some pics of mine tonight.
I'll try to snap some pics of mine tonight.
06-20-02, 03:43 PM
#15
Take the pill out of the 4" line completly and make sure you have the lines hooked up in the correct area. The Waste gate controll. Make sure to cap the remaining open end after install. It should be good to 14 psi If you do this and tune it properly. It's pretty easy to get confused I'll admit .But it is real straight forward once you figure it out.
06-20-02, 09:13 PM
#19
well my profec arrived today.. so i'm hoping for a smooth install in the morning.. the pics... "kinda" help.. i'm guessing when i get in there.. i'll understand more.
As for the line that runs off the actual profec... do i really need to tee it off of the fuel regulator... or will any vacuum line do.. such as the BOV?
As for the line that runs off the actual profec... do i really need to tee it off of the fuel regulator... or will any vacuum line do.. such as the BOV?
06-21-02, 07:14 AM
#21
Pete, I "T"'d it off of the boost gauge. Basically what your trying to do is give the head unit a boost signal so it knows what your boost it.
The nice thing about "T"ing into the boost gauge is that the head unit & the gauge are both already in the cabin.
Toadman, you are correct. Since both ends of that metal line are in theory the same pneumatical (is that a word?) point then it doesn't matter which end you plug. In theory.
However since air is compressible and the rubber hoses can expand/leak it would be a better idea to plug the nipple on the actuator so you would have faster actuator response (no long chamber of air to fill & compress), and are less likely to end up with a leak. I have no idea if the difference in response would even be noticable though.
In this pic you can see the self tapping screw I ran into the nipple. I appied some ULTRA Black RTV to the base of the screw which can be disasterous if you don't let it dry because it can find it's way into some odd places.
The nice thing about "T"ing into the boost gauge is that the head unit & the gauge are both already in the cabin.
Toadman, you are correct. Since both ends of that metal line are in theory the same pneumatical (is that a word?) point then it doesn't matter which end you plug. In theory.
However since air is compressible and the rubber hoses can expand/leak it would be a better idea to plug the nipple on the actuator so you would have faster actuator response (no long chamber of air to fill & compress), and are less likely to end up with a leak. I have no idea if the difference in response would even be noticable though.
In this pic you can see the self tapping screw I ran into the nipple. I appied some ULTRA Black RTV to the base of the screw which can be disasterous if you don't let it dry because it can find it's way into some odd places.
06-21-02, 07:17 AM
#22
In this pic you can see the long runs of tubing. My Profec box is mounted to the side of my intake which isn't in the car right now. So that explains why the other ends of the tubing goes nowhere.
06-22-02, 02:39 PM
#24
ok i installed my greddy profec b the other day and i'm still getting rampant boost. i've gotten the 1st turbo under control but when the second turbo kicks in it will spike anywhere to 15psi at 4500 rpm. i don't know what to do... its got me stumped.