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wiring your drift car the "right" way.
Guess what guys? Car is down....again.
No fail on my part....atleast i dont think. I'm not getting any juice from my battery to any part of the car. I have a short somewhere. I've decided to put paint on hold and i just ordered a painless wiring catolog to thumb through. I'm pulling the engine out after i have everything i need. The piss poor 20+ year old shit has to go so problems like this go away. If any of you went through painless or another company please contribute what you've done, what you've bought....etc... lets try and keep this a helpful thread so others who want to do the same can follow suit. Thanks guys and girls. |
32 people run stock wiring?
*golf clap* |
i use new stock body and engine harnesses. shit is soo fucking expensive... but worth it.
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What I am doing to my harness(engine and main) is checking continuity throughout the whole thing with a multimeter(DMM thing). When I get a circuit done, I wrap it with electrical tape, and then put those engine wire tubes over it. You may come across some wires that may need to be re-soldered.
I also check the metal were it will ground. I get the metal clean from rust, and when I put the grounding wire onto the bodybolt(which is clean too), I apply electrical grease. Note: Clean the wires Clean your hands Be patient Some places may have a auto-ranging multimeter(saves alot of time) P.S. In some other car forums, people actually de-pin and re-do the electrical system in their cars; like new wires and connectors! Hope I helped! Are you pulling the engine? Or just gonna work around it? |
Originally Posted by NoPistons!
(Post 10225075)
Guess what guys? Car is down....again.
I'm not getting any juice from my battery to any part of the car. Im gonna vote... clean/replace your batt terminals before you tear down your car. check grounds you know, the easy shit |
i say go the route your going. I just the other day got everything in my cabin to work, overhead lights everything on the idiot cluster, even the hatch light lol.
Long hours with a multi meter lemme tell ya. |
Yeah. That thing was probably the best investment i made. Oh, and my compression tester. It's useless on a rotary but i've used it to diagnose motors at u pulls and shit...
Russ, i'm doing that first. I've got plenty of 2-8 ga speaker wire i'll probably use as grounds. Terminals are clean and i tested the voltage on the actual battery clamps. Um, whats really lame is the fact the ps/ac shit is in the way and it's really cramped working there. I have really big hands, not tiny japanese hands. I downloaded the full pdf wiring diagram. Just chasing ghosts in the shell now. It's bullocks. I made some de-pin tools out of some wiper blade parts. Trust me, there's miles of harness i'm not going to use and that insulation on the wires is so broken down from chemicals/age that i might as well get rid of it all....in due time. |
Russ, i'm praying its the negative battery ground. I'm going to string that entire bastard out and ground it about 6" from the battery to the chassis then beef up all my chassis grounds and even add some. I've got about 10' of wire to do so with. :) Fuses checked out ok. didn't find any frayed wires in my footwell or under the dash. Ho hum....
No new wheels. No paint, nothing. Bye bye n/a. Hello swap, full chassis prep and rewire. It needs to be done. There's so much hacked up shit in this car that wasn't my doing. I almost want to cry but i found some tampons and vagisil so i'm good now. |
I'm using the sourthernrod 20 circuit chassis harness in my new track chassis.
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...oduct-635.html http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9e8afa8e42.jpg Here's the nasty crap I gotta deal with. https://img821.imageshack.us/img821/5872/1001523b.jpg I have rewired my efi harness multiple times. My current one is a wire tuck style with the harness entering the engine from the firewall instead of front. https://img6.imageshack.us/img6/101/1001105lm0.jpg |
Sweet.
I had it fixed by bypassing the stock ground and using a 5ga ground directly from the negative to the strut tower. More throttle response, quicker start. Went for a spin around the block and everything felt good. Started it and shut it down about 5 or six times. Then smelled gas....oooooh gas. I have rebuilt injectors with new pintle caps and everything. Built em myself. Yet i look between the lim and block and gasoline. Yay. Lines checked out, rail fittings were good. Must be the lower o rings.....ok then. So i cleaned everything and put everything back together in the dark..... I reconnected my vac lines, the tps, throttle cable, ait sensor and the ground wire from the firewall to the tb. Alrighty. Reconnect my negative. Go to start the car and all the idiot lights light up like normal, the shift up light is on, no beeps or nothing so all systems are go. I go to crank the car and hear CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK really fast and then no power. None. I disconnected the battery about 5 times and repeated this process five times. After "attempting" to crank the car, no juice unless i pull the negative and wait about 5 minutes. My metal i was using for skid plates is now bent in half and i bent my steering wheel punching the shit out of it. My "bike/skateboard throwing fits" are moving on to my car and drifting. Fantastic. I'm pretty pissed. Car is a COCKTEASE |
Ok, dome light will come on after about 60 seconds after turning the key into the on position (without depressing the clutch or cranking) getting power cut. I'm really scratching my head at this. I might try swapping the cpu out and seeing if maybe i fucked mine up. I have a spare one in a box somewhere.... Either that or my starter shit the bed/shorted out.
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
(Post 10226598)
Ok, dome light will come on after about 60 seconds after turning the key into the on position (without depressing the clutch or cranking) getting power cut. I'm really scratching my head at this. I might try swapping the cpu out and seeing if maybe i fucked mine up. I have a spare one in a box somewhere.... Either that or my starter shit the bed/shorted out.
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the click click click really fast shit just means your battery is dead. just not enough to show symptoms...
how do i know, because the last two months ive been dealing with some piece of shit ass odyssey battery that fucking left me like this at an event. everything would come on, the fan, lights etc.... just would click like a ratchet. like the motor was locked (at first i thought someone dropped a bolt in that shit..) i am not saying youre a dumbass or anything so dont get bent, just check it again, and go from there. either way if you do the painless shit you will love it. i helped out on a few customer cars with it, and like the setup. i plan on doing it on my next chassis. |
Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
(Post 10227227)
bro, charge your battery....
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Originally Posted by iani1.1
(Post 10225402)
i use new stock body and engine harnesses. shit is soo fucking expensive... but worth it.
which sometimes is good, because when you buy a new engine harness, why skimp on using 20yr old AFM, Map sensor, knock sensor, injector resistor box shit and have them fraud out your $800 harness... so if u plan on buying all that, youre already doing it wrong... making harness' really isnt super hard, you just have to get into it. |
I use an ARC 8000 panel for the chassis(IGN, Start, Dash, Fuel Pump, Lights, Wipers)
Made my own Alternator circuit using an LED for voltage differential. And the engine harness is Haltech. Everything else is in a landfill somewhere. |
Exactly where the fuck it belongs, Dave. I hear ya! You get the new setup on the 13bre done yet?
No, buckey, i assume it's not hard. I'm jumping on it. I'll make a day out of it, buy a case of beer, invite some friends over and we'll get busy. Every possible check i could do to see if it was a battery related issue was done. Including trying different batteries. Same shit. Jumping the car yeilded the same results too. I have a short or grounding issue further down the harness on the drivers side. I'm sure of it, atleast i fucking HOPE AND PRAY TO JOE PESCI that's what it is. Next month, i'll start placing my orders to get shit done. I always looked at some of the baller builds seeing those custom boards and wiring thinking "i'll never do that. No need". Yeah. Might even get some mil spec connectors too. |
Originally Posted by davedge
(Post 10227369)
I use an ARC 8000 panel for the chassis(IGN, Start, Dash, Fuel Pump, Lights, Wipers)
Made my own Alternator circuit using an LED for voltage differential. And the engine harness is Haltech. Everything else is in a landfill somewhere. I am rethinking my entire track car now. ARC 8000 Then Blown fuse warning sub panel. Drooooool.................... |
Here's a shot from last year of the panel/gauges, etc...
It has worked well for me. http://www.ryantuerck.com/wp-content...ers-fc/015.jpg |
Not bad, not bad at all. What gauges did you go with? They look like greddy but i can't really see.
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well if the ground to your battery was bad then theres like a 90% chance the ground to your starter is bad
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I dont care what you say. Fucking bastard.
I wish you would have put those up about 4-5 months ago. I would have drove down to pick em up. You know exactly what i'm talking about. Seriously, you're right. The ground probably did take a dump. There's probably some more going on but i'll address things as they pop up until i get my kit. |
magic mike has that panel. i really like it.
i love that baller apexi tach. |
Dave's car is the shit, period.
So i'm planning on going fucking overboard with my grounding. The entire drivers side framerail harness is jacked and is getting completely de-loomed and redone. There are wires on the power side of things that have NO, i REPEAT NO rubber at all left on them. The ground/power area running along the strut tower is pretty much done. I just couldn't see it because bullshit was in the way. The other sections of the engine harness look ok, atleast the sections i de-loomed after work. Dash before and after pics and this area's before and after pics later. Like i said, overboard with the grounds. Blue 4ga wire everywhere. Fuck that pussy ass 8 ga chassis harness and 20ga remote grounds. |
i sense anger
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Ohms Law...
E=IxR
Voltage=Current x Resistance This equation will aid in the decisions of which wire is too big or too small, how much power should go were... This may save time on this stuff; or may cause utter chaos. |
Yep. And therein lies the problem. Too much resistance.
Aaron had a writeup on his site i never even looked at (too busy reading up on his na-t build and custom intake) discussing the essential grounding points. 1. Ecu ground that comes of the harness and bolts near the egr to the keg 2. Firewall to engine ground 3. The main ground that runs from the negative to the chassis to the starter All of these are VERY fucking important and even if you add some bullshit grounds, it wont matter if all of these aren't addressed. If you have your security alarm removed, it's good to jumper the starter cut relay as well. There is entirely too much useless cluttered crap scattered all over the place in these cars. The reason i put this thread up here vs race car's or general or whatever is because most of us who slide want a simple, no bullshit car that's easy to trouble shoot and keep off the jackstands. Missing events you were planning on going to because of some wires is a huge buzzkill. Having a no-frills and clean setup is something every one of us can benefit from and it doesn't cost alot of money. Maybe $300-500 to go all the way but worth every penny.
Originally Posted by RussTII
(Post 10236333)
i sense anger
It's not directed at you. I'm giving you a hard time about the equips though. Lol. A few links to good shit: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/7...kit-p-380.html http://www.zippertubing.com/products.aspx |
Yay.
http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...b6911e5932.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...fa75a6b54c.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...c2b73f07b6.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...35d58ee4e0.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...efab0f4a01.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...f1aa0cc819.jpg http://www.alltelmypics.net/photos/p...a41b697c63.jpg I had a fun weekend. Bought some 2awg o2 free, and a bunch of red and black 4awg wire with eyelet joints and whatnot. I found out something fantastic. Our grounds in the fc that run from the battery and the starter are TAPED AND LOOMED with the cas wiring, and 12v+ on the drivers side of the bay. How awesome is that shit!? The two 4ga wires shown were my ground and power. I guess the ground got so hot it burned ALL the insulation off the entire length of the wire except for about 4" of wire coming off the top bolt starter ground. The main 12v is pictured below it (sorry, my camera takes good pics HALF the time) was fried down to bare wire 5" down. By some strange sort of luck, my car didn't explode and i didn't do serious damage to sensors/significant wiring. There are some damaged leads but they never melted down to bare wire. The melted ground insulation saw to that. It's caked all over two cas signal wires comming off the two white plugs near the brake master My guess is the insulation became brittle and arcing occured between the thicker gauge power and ground wires causing this. I'm surprised but at the same time not really. Car is over 20 years old... However most of the main engine harness i've re-loomed and partially tucked was in really good shape. The injector harness plugs n flexies were trashed and the coolant sensorl on the waterneck had some funky shit going on with it but the wires themselves were still really flexible without cracks. |
Well, it's alive again. Still haven't gotten my shit from painless yet for the inside but w/e...
THICK motherfucking groundssssss. Thick power wires and everything in the harness was given slack to allow for easier removal. Japanese people have tiny hands. I suppose it's easier if you have on-pedal master cylinders and e-p/s. Arguments i've been reading on the 240 forums involve using oem connectors over weatherpack. I'm assuming this wouldn't apply to us since our clips fail from being brittle as fuck and snap anyway? Weatherpack or factory bnib oem? |
The factory wiring is trash. Anything you do to fix anything is probably an improvement over old factory garbage.
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I tore everything out....
Built this guy: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/...41c4ed13_b.jpg and made a basic switch panel... shit took FOREVER to do -but came out nice... I do not have turn signals (just hazards) and I ditched the pop-ups -but you could wire wither of them up pretty easily http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3349/...71fb7070b9.jpg |
^lol damn, thats pretty sweet though
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From my post in the race tech section-
mmmmm I have a painless wiring "wiring kit" with the flying leads and switchbox, and while it would be very useful if I had to quickly wire up a dune buggy or dirt oval car, I would not put it in something I cared about. My biggest complaints are that it is a heavy, clunky piece that I am sure WILL work, but has no place in a race car. I think you need to be more specific as to what you need to wire up. My FC turbo race car (road race, hillclimb, and drift) has only the following wiring: Battery cables to starter, main cutoff switch ground cables directly to transmission and chassis 8ga (IRRC) wires for fuel pump and power distribution block (fuse block, provides power to ECU, Coils, and injectors) wires run (but not currently in use) for brake lights Fuel pump relay (mounted about 8 inches from the fuel pump, triggers to ground allowing a 18ga trigger wire from the ECU) Engine harness consisting off- ECU connectors, OEM (using the AEM ECU) NOTE- brand new connectors are available and not expensive, since Honda and Mitsubushi use the exact same connectors on various models AEM Wideband controller with sensor 4 Bosch injector clips 1 OEM Mazda connector for ballast resistor pack, harness side 1 coolant temp sensor connector 1 AEM 3bar MAP sensor pigtail 1 GM AIT pigtail 1 4-pin DTM male connector (replaces OE Mazda CAS connector) 1 4-pin DTM female connector (Harness side of CAS) 1 OEM Mazda TPS connector 1 OE Mitsubishi Ignition amplifier (ignitor) connector, for V6 DIS systems 1 DTM 6 pin connector, for AEM Wideband 1 2-pin MOLEX male connector and terminals, SPA fan 1 2-pin MOLEX female connector and terminals, harness side SPA fan 2 SPST toggle switches, silver contacts main power on, ignition/ECU on 1 momentary switch, starter STACK 8100 DASH (currently), complete with its own harness and the following sensors- coolant temp oil temp oil press fuel press boost press beacon or NORMALLY AIM Mychron3 Gold MXLOG Dash with the follwing sensors and thier wiring oil pressure oil temperature brake pressure (fnt) brake pressure (rear) fuel pressure beacon (all other data- TPS, AFR, Coolant temp, etc- comes from the AEM ECU) Thats pretty much it- an ON switch for the main power, another to turn on the EMS, and the start button Pretty damned simple. There is no need for a dozen switches to control fans (that are controlled by the ECU), fuel pumps (also should be controlled by the ECU) dash (always on when the power is on), a dozen BS gauges when a single dash will do a better job, or switches to trun on and off a million various lights etc. Nothing that isnt needed. I do have a secondary harness to add lights for the front of the car and tail lights for the rear should I need them, but its not a permenant sort of thing. And there is another "auxilary" harness for a drivers cool suit, fresh air system, and that sort of thing, but again, its not permenant. This is all my opinion of course, but if it looks like it belongs on a tractor it doesnt belong on a race car, and even wiring weighs something, and there is no need to add something that weighs something just because. Link to thread: https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/track-car-wiring-help-926236/ |
I want to make babies with your dash. :D
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you have a stack cluster?
Bastard. I hate you. Lol. My poor ass is going to try to adopt a z31 digital dash into my steeze over the winter. The hard part is finding one in working condition and all the wiring. Yay. It serves no purpose other than to keep me busy. |
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this is also my winter project. Sub-fucking-scribed.
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Yep. I encourage everyone to post in here as much as possible as often as possible.
I've got a non rotor motor going in this upcomming spring hopefully and i have to wire EVERYTHING from the dash forwards..... Hooray. :( Oh well. I haven't had any problems with voltage drop, cut, stalling....etc... My gas mileage is waaaaaaay the hell better than what it was and throttle response is heaps better. It's a damn shame i have to do it all over again. |
i need to get on this shit for my racecar. really want my wiring super easy to get at, and very easy to replace fuses/relays in the event something goes wrong. honestly am thinking of throwing everything in the glove box (making a custom backing plate like above) but just tucked in there so whoever is helping doesnt have to be upside down in a fixed back bride seat ripping it up trying to access the fusepanel. lol super easy, OEM looking, yet very race ready.
this thread is the start of something super epic. |
Good point bringing up the fixed back with stock fuse box location. You gotta be a fucking contortionist to get to it. Mission impossible with a flashlight in your mouth....
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6645451_n.jpg Bleh.... New ecu and harness. Harness is in great shape. Some of the plugs are fucked up on the motor either from loading it, un loading it or whatever. Dunno. So weatherpack connector bundle is a must. Where are you guys ordering your bfs (big fucking spools) of wire from? |
Originally Posted by blackedoutFC3S
(Post 10350267)
I'm just learning about wiring and everything now and trying to learn more, so sorry if this is a stupid question, but those ground boxes on the left of this? Where do you pick those up at? And the boxes in the middle are the fuses right? I know the right one's are relays just trying to get this all figured out.
I got everything from here: http://www.delcity.net/ It was about $400 worth of stuff to do both chassis and engine harnesses. Making something like this takes patience and a lot of time... I have schematics drawn up on paper as well. |
Good to hear and i'll check that out.
I hate wiring but it's a necessary skill when you're trying to do a halfway proper build.... Your board probably looks more complex than it is. I'm just a noob to that type of stuff. |
Originally Posted by NoPistons!
(Post 10351018)
Good to hear and i'll check that out.
I hate wiring but it's a necessary skill when you're trying to do a halfway proper build.... Your board probably looks more complex than it is. I'm just a noob to that type of stuff. You just have to come up with a plan -put it on paper and go to it -1 wire at a time. The last thing you want to do is start chasing electrical problems... |
painless is not really painless
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Bringing able to read schematics is key. Car wiring diagrams are cake to read so long as you haves a basic understanding of electrical principal and the symbols they use. Once you can read how the stock stuff works it isn't too hard to remove what's there with new equipment. Pulling wires is a pain in the dick especially on a car so it's much easier when you can look up connectors to back probe.
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Look into the ISIS system. BigAl is using the system in his 20B circuit racing car, I'm pretty well sold on the system and will use it when i build my FD race car.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe. http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement :) Great system. |
Originally Posted by ballinnmiami240sx
(Post 10353192)
painless is not really painless
Originally Posted by vortex`
(Post 10353692)
Look into the ISIS system. BigAl is using the system in his 20B circuit racing car, I'm pretty well sold on the system and will use it when i build my FD race car.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe. http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement :) Great system. |
I'll look into it when i can get on my other computer. This bitch doesn't have a sound card.
For any one of my primary electrical functions, i'd like to have an led wired in that lights up when there's a short/broken contact issue. Maybe red/green? Green means go. Red means throw shit and swear then calmly fix the issue on the connection you can VISIBLY see on the dash light. I dont plan on running my idiot cluster. |
wooo stoked on this thread. i need to learn about wiring.
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My FC drift car
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0058.jpg http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0074.jpg The distribution block on the right is supposed to be black. At the time of the picture I only had a red one http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0056.jpg http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0064.jpg |
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