I have a super secret, super dooper fun, project i am starting here for school in a little. I will be drawing me a spool for my future fc.. Yes, you are correct, i dont have a car. But i do have an s5 open diff, thats all i need to get started. Anyone else interested in this?


Basically ever since ive seen the Weir s chassis & ae 86 spools, i knew i had to draw me up one and get it done. Heres some pics of the weir s13 & 14 spools, and the fc spools will come out somewhat similar to these. Its also pretty amazing to think these go for less than 500 bucks. Way cheaper than any other kaaz or cusco, less rotating mass, more simplicity, almost no maintenance, and most importantly... always locked, rocked, and ready to roll!!

 

They dont make spool diffs for fc's?


I want one

 

ive googled it plenty of times and have still yet to find one... if you can prove me wrong. please do.


btw i know big travis. he said your good buddies with him!

 

A mini spool might be a little easier to make but cool project nonetheless.

 

whats a "mini spool"? and where does the ring go? and spools arent hard to make, im not concerned about drawing it, i know i can. i just have to find a place thats willing to make it at a decent price.

 

Tell travahoe I said what up.

And ill be down to get a tat

 

Getn tatted by my boy trav this week! haha. Blindboxx wuts ur name I think we'v met b4 i'm in sac too. Sht I jus can't membr. That spool diff would be fukn cool. Interested...yes.

 

id like one also

 

names brandon. i guess the easiest way to remember me are my ray bans and crazy things that come out of my mouth... hahaha

you might also remember by the miata. btw your car looks deathy familiar.. and sexy! lol
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2269241_n.jpg






also! i am going to get the diff bearings pressed out this week so i can start. i also need to readup some more on the n/a & t2 rear ends. since i imagine ill be drawing one for the t2 diffff at some point in time...

 

If you can hand-produce them in decent quantities and sell them for under $200, you'll sell them like hotcakes.

Else every other cheap-*** drifter [including myself] is going to rock a re-shimmed LSD, or a welded diff [again, like myself]. My welded diff cost me $9 and a pizza.

 

So what's the difference between a spool diff rather then an 2-way or something.

 

I'm pretty sure a spool is going to be like a welded. Always locked. Welded without Weld. lol

 

Interesting, how's the strength on it? Daily Driveable?

 

welded diffs are pretty rugged if done right. only draw back to normal street driving is going around slow corners the inside tire chirps and hops.. and it gets retarded tough to push. if/when your car breaks down instead of being able to coast it, you will need a few buddies to push. especially if you are going around corners.

 

Main issues I see are:
The stub shafts have always been the weak link and break on all open diffs. T2 Axles and stubs are much stronger and beefier. Maybe make this for the t2 diff, s4 and s5, instead of any open diff.

Also, from experience, spools, welded, etc(full time lock, no release) are great for entry level drifting at relative slow speeds. Drifting does include a diff to open upon exiting a drift and or letting off the go pedal during the drift. Full time locks will always make you spin out more.

Not saying it is a bad idea. Always like new toys and things built that haven't been. Also, this is great for drag cars! Just my 2cents

 

stronger than a welded. pretty sure (if they're made right) they're indestructible... which shouldnt be hard. i just need to make sure everything is thick enough.

weir claims that their spools are just about indestructible. i dont doubt it, theres nothing really there to break... cept the splines....


welded and spools do the same thing, its the same concept. and yes, ive seen of weldeds hold up way past what there known to break at. but then again, ive seen a lot of weldeds break too. essentially im drawing one because no one has one (that i know of) and because i like to mess with things (make simpler, more efficient, etc etc)


Good to know. Now, are the s4 and s5 t2 diffs different in terms of size? I know theres a page out there that explains the differences in the n/a and t2 rear end (which i cant seem to find now), but i dont think it goes over s4 and s5 t2 differences...

Ive seen plenty of people slide plenty fast with weldeds. And im pretty sure mad mike even had one in his 3 rotor rx8... But he broke it.. haha


edit: Just searched a lil on here before i go to bed.. Ill be scrappin the open and getting a t2 asap. why spend all that time to make an indestructible diff, and have to worry about the splines breakin?

Oh and thanks to everyone whos given input! Much appreciated!

 

well I know for fact that the s4 t2 had a clutch type lsd (not sure if there were other options for the s4 t2). thats probably the one you want. its the most popular because you can shim them to lock harder/faster. the s5 t2 I believe had a viscous lsd (once again, maybe other options but I think that most are). actually, if you could work a spool for a s5 t2 viscous diff, you would essentially re purpose those as everyone swaps them out for aftermarket or s4 clutch types since viscous sucks. I THINK that s4 t2 and s5 t2 diff casings are very similar if not exactly the same but don't quote me on that, not 100% sure.

 

Thanks for the info.. I believe i will just go with the s5 diff anyways. Since i know people do run s4 clutch types and re-shim em harder and they do like them, the viscous.. not so much.. hahaha

 

So i talked to someone at weir performance today. Whoever i talked to was kind of a smart *** and didnt really want to explain it to me, which is somewhat understandable, but cmon dude... anyways, what i did get out of him was that the splines are going to require a special tooling, which i imagined was going to happen anyways, i couldnt imagine trying to cnc those splines, and i know its bank for tooling. So i am going to talk to a few of my instructors about some tooling options and to see if we can get something done.. but that was kinda crappy to hear what i didnt want to hear. haha

 

I know a problem when boosting on an NA diff is the stub-shafts tend to break and people upgrade to the TII stuff. Would that be the same case for this?

 

na stuff can barely handle na power.lol. ya, its a problem here too because you can't throw any torque at the na really. I heard some guys on here broke axles or stubs on just the stock na power.

 

If you are going thru the hassle run the T2 diff and make the parts for that. N/A is a 7" ring gear. T2 is 8". There are a number of T2 diffs that have run 9's.... with stock parts.

Making this stuff for n/a cars unless you get a dedicated list of buyers (that put down deposits) will be a waste of time... and money.

 

+1

NA stub shafts are notoriously compared to their TII counterparts.

Welded diffs work great for drifting, but having a LSD would be so much nicer for a lot of reasons.

The only advantage i see to a spool is that it's probably lighter then a welded diff.... but couldn't be by that much. As long as the welds are good quality you'll probably never blow up the welded. You could say that a spool is more simple but really, a welded diff doesn't have any moving parts too. I'd be interested to hear some feedback from people who've actually used a spool though. "ive never dealt with one nor felt it's weight.

 

im not making one for the n/a diffs, provided i can even make one. (see below)
read a couple of the posts up. if i can get it made, i will not be making spools for the n/a.. if multiple people are telling me not to make em for NA diffs, im not going to be an idiot and make em.

and yes i understand. i just want to get a single or two made and run em on a few cars and see how they hold up. im not going to get a GB going on a product that hasnt been tested out yet..
Less rotating mass... and i plan on doing a 1j/1.5j swap in my fc when i get it, i dont know if you know, but those arent hard to get 500+hp in with a single big turbo.. i wouldnt expect a welded to hold up at anything past 500hp (i eventually plan on doing atleast 500hp that much after i learn how to drive on the stock TT setup for a while) yes you are right weldeds do the same thing, but they can break..

essentially i wanted to create something exactly like a welded that would NEVER break, and id never ever even have to worry about it. a spool is simply the easiest solution to fix this problem. its stupid cheap, compared to a 1500 dollar diff, and works better in my opinion, and less rotating mass, for drifting and drag you really cant ask for more... and its not like someone already makes them..




im still currently in the process of trying to figure out the spline problem.. i talked to my instructor a little bit last week. i will make sure to talk to him next time i see him about it more.

 

Subscribed, I like where this is going. I'm having the same dilemma. Turbo s5 viscous = no driftee
And i dunno if I'd trust the welds on the spider gears of a viscous since their harder to access. Spool seems like a great idea to me. Good luck blindbox, I hope this works out