Rear Camber Adjuster
 

Since I put on my Stance GR+ coilovers, I've noticed some negative camber in the rear. From searching around, I know this is normal whenever and FC is lowered. So I was wondering if getting a Rear Camber Adjuster (like the one from racing beat), would be helpful? Reason I ask is because I still get a lot snap whenever I end a drift or go to transfer, usually causing me to spin. Or would another modification be better (sway bars, strut bars etc...) to eliminate the snap?

Current suspension mods:
- RB DTSS eliminators
- Stance GR+ Coilovers

theres 2 ways to adjust rear camber, you can get the independent ones are the single rod. however i remember seeing somewhere that if you go with the dependents alone they tend to cause binding so i would recommend the single rod. or you can just run both like i am

Are the single independents like this?

http://www.racingbeat.com/photos/14008.jpg

i was going to run a single arm myself, just ordered it recently.

IIRC, you're running full stiff in the back aren't you? lowering that down some should help reducing that 'snap' however short wheel base cars tend to snap more than others.

driving my buddies cressida felt soooo smooooth even on cut springs. lol

I'm actually changed my setup to 7/5.

Mod the driver or change to a different chassis, the "snap" is a characteristic of the chassis and needs to be overcome by the driver by countersteering quicker or with more steering angle.

could it have to do with the rear sway bar?

a few people swear by no rear on fc

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...20080213_3.jpg

these are the single independents

the rod is the one that adjusts both sides

heres a look of where the singles and the joint rod go

Passenger Side
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...urboII/091.jpg

Driver Side
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...urboII/095.jpg

you can see the joint camber arm in the driver side pic

the horizontal ones are the lateral links (toe) and the vertical is the camber FYI

Well I don't want it to be super loose (like a 240), and I will admit that Im not very good and don't have that much experience.

Wouldn't it be better to have one so the chassis is stiffer? :Wconfused

RE TII: Where did you get the single independents from?

the single bar will change your pinion angle. if you lowered alot then the bar shouldnt be used. i have the 2 independent pieces and they work great.

I lowered it about 4" in the front 5" in the rear, it's not slammed but it's low...

Independent adjusters.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=80

I would not suggest using the ones RE TurboII posted because they are not adjustable and you would not be able to balance camber between both rear tires.

Thanks, what about the one from RB?

RB doesn't make the independent adjusters. :dunno:

holy fucking shit this thread is full of win.
i had no idea there were independent rear toe adjusters, I thought there was just the single turnbuckle. My rear toe is all jacked up. one side is actually more cambered than the other. I htought my car was just destined to be fucked thats why i never got the single one becuase even if i adjusted both, it would still be off.

well, just found out its $200.

probably not gonna buy them.

'F' that

You need the adjustable lateral links to adjust rear toe, which is thrown out of wack when you lower our cars.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=88

Sorry I didn't mean the independent ones. I meant this.

http://www.racingbeat.com/photos/14008.jpg

The Rear Suspension Camber Adjuster is an adjustable link that replaces the stock, fixed-length link to allow moderate rear camber changes by tilting the rear suspension subframe. The immediate range of adjustment is .60 degrees less negative camber to .77 degrees more negative camber. With careful inspection and possibly some minor dimpling of the floor pan, this range can be nearly doubled. After installation, adjustments to camber are quickly made. There is virtually no toe change with this adjustment.

i said toe, but i meant camber.

I fail

That bar is not adjustable on the car which means you need to remove one side to adjust. I would suggest the Mazdatrix aluminum on car adjustable rod.

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000

Ok, thanks :)

WOW! The mazdatrix link really jumped up in price! Not sure how soon you need one, but Secret Element is bringing our piece back to the market, with a re-introductary price, we have had a number of inquries recently. Anyways we are looking to have them available very shortly. Email me at seeltuned@aol.com with any questions.

Anyways the best setup would be to utilize both the single camber Sublink, and the two smaller links this will give you the greatest adjustabilty.

I think I'm going to do the sublink first then the smaller to over time.

I see you're located in Pittsburgh, you ever go up to beaver run?

yea it would make sense to use the single link to go from (in my case, both rears are the same) -2.6* back up to like -1*, and use the single adjusters to fine tune and make them the same.

i always forget PBM makes FC stuff, i'll probably get those ones since PBM is more gangster than mazdatrix. lol

Yeah the single one gives you enough adjustability imo. I set mine to near 0 camber and I didn't like it so I dialed some more back in.

I am running the Secret Element adjustable rod.

The independant ones are the next on my list. I got mad negative camber in the rear and I tell you, it makes it so uncontrolable and I spin like a mad man!!! Could be the driver needs an adjustment too. :D

Yeah I noticed that when I last saw your car.

Where can you get Secret Element parts?

email him Kinch. He is local and does hit up Beaver run sometimes. He did Tylers 13b swap into his Miata. I got his Super Angle inner tie rods. Good shit!!!

Sweet, I definitely will after the holidays. I'm getting CS headers, a high flo cat, sway bars, the camber adjuster and maybe strut bars for next season. :D

How's your FC?

See Eyecandy secret element.com

Ok. Depending on the price, I'm either gonna go through him or mazdatrix.

Don't waste your money on swaybars if you are drifting the car. The front interferes with steering angle mods and most people remove the rear. If you are on coilovers I say remove the front and keep the stock rear for now.

Thanks for the advice, it's my everyday car so I might just leave the stock ones on. What are your thoughts on strut bars?

just posting too get an update!

I didn't notice much of a difference playing with strut bars but a front bar will make the car more understeer prone and a rear bar will make it understeer prone. I would just get a lower arm bar, they make the car feel a lot more neutral instead of understeer happy.

the lowdown-
the camber adjuster you use depends on the bushings in your subframe and trailing arms, and each have their ups and downs.
center bar:
good- cheap
bad- uneven adjustment, changes pinion angle, limited range with solid subframe bushings

undividuals:
good- adjusts each wheel individually (duh)
bad- expensive, cant be used with poly control arm bushings. you either need stock or bearings

best: use both
set your pinion angle with the center bar, and use the indivs to set camber
if you have a combination of stock and solid bushings... good luck lol