Where I live (in BC) we don't have the same type of cali canyon roads but I have driven my car several times through the mountains on the very curvy roads. They were awesome! Several times I would come up to a corner and think I was about to slide out but the car held really well. I found once you have dropped your car as much as you can you definitely need to invest in some camber links to get maximum traction. Running around with the dampers set to full soft, which is how most people daily them, the car will be fairly neutral (won't want to slide out to much but also isn't going to understeer like a mofo). If you check out the Part Shop MAX website (halfway down the page) there is a guy named marcus and he takes his S14 out for time attack and does really well and he only changes the damper settings! Really though its all about how you are driving. Any set of coils is going to increase the handling potential of your car and will skew what it may prefer to do but ultimately its about how you are driving it. Just my two cents.

so i installed my psm coils and put the on full soft. drove around town after alignment. i could feel every bump on the road. truely amazing but kinda uncomfortable for daily. maybe i just have to get used to it. every bump made my tits bounce lol now that feels wierd. anyways im looking forward to tracking them tomorrow. will give more of my 2cents after that.

Appreciate the input :) keep it coming!

coo lowjack you pick those up from dude then huh?

yeah i did pick it up from him :)

I am really thinking about buying a set of these?

I'm Ron Burgundy?

Take me to pleasure town

I just thought I would point out since I finally got my hands on some.

PBM's are legit.

I've probably put about 500 miles on mine, and I daily about 35 miles a day. They get annoying depending what street you're on, but they also get really smooth depending what street you're on. You learn to drive slow to compensate for the road imperfections.

On the freeway, there's no difference between these and my old set up on Intrax Springs with KYB AGX's, unless there's a huge dip in the freeway, then you drop, but its nothing ridiculous.

The worse parts are really those 15 ~ 25 mph roads that the city doesn't bother fixing since you're not supposed to be going fast anyways. But you learn to dodge shit.

I'm going to order the 6kg spring and see how these feel when running 8kg/6kg, but honestly it isn't nearly as bad as I thought 10kg/8kg would be. They're no worse than these oldschool JIC's i was running on, which I have no idea what the spring rates are but they were probably along the lines of 7/5 or 8/6.

The only negative I would point out, and its really not that big, is that to get the awesome full camber adjustment, you need to grind some of your knuckle/hub/spindle by so you can actually move the hub in relation to the coilover. It makes no sense unless you're actually looking at what I am talking about, but its only like 2 hours of work and its nothing hard.


p.s. I leave my shit on full soft.

i was told by dangerous that these coilovers have caster adjustment. is this true?

yea it has caster adjustment

https://img91.imageshack.us/img91/5589/enginehr3.jpg

awesome. thanks for the reply.

that doesn't make sense would that not negate all your camber when you adjusted for positive caster?

yes but not as much as you would think

plus top hole on hub mount is notched so you can dial in camber there

Funny iani, if you were grip racing, you'd have those cam/caster plates clocked 90 degree to the back. Are you running JTPs' setup for drifting?

Ive had these for more than a year. Yup theyre legit. I touge and drift but had to remove both swaybars. I had racingbeat swaybars with new bushings in the endlinks. This created too much understeer so I had to remove the swaybars. Feels really good with full camber and caster. I have pretty much complete suspension. Battleversion rear lateral toe links. Awr individual camber adj. Mazdatrix main camber link. Modded knuckles mazdatrix supersteering angle kit. Solid rear diff bushings.... Polyurethane front control arm bushings. Solid tranny mounts. Competition front diff mount. Solid engine mounts.... And alot more

Point is with all of these combined the car handles beautifully. Had these coils for a while now and theyre still holding up. Buy theseeeeeeeeeeeeee. And say whats up to martin the fc guru at psm.

anyone know which is the proper direction the top mounts suppose to face? like / (towards the engine) or like \ (towards the fan shroud) thanks

here are pix of how i have them installed right now... please let me know if they are facing the correct direction. these diagonal top mounts are confusing. thanks

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left strut
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right strut
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oh and since this is a review... they are pretty stiff. depending on road will result in the type of ride you will get... but when you open up on some good roads or track, they are pretty amazing because you feel connected with the road and control is just amazing

anyone opt to put in the 6k springs and swap the 8's to the fronts yet? wondering how much of a difference it makes. I'm getting pbm but my roads are horrible in VT. thinking about ordering the 6's but not if its going to compromise my ability to drift (I know JTP was using 8/6 on his FC when he was running it in fd). let me know guys, I'd rather read reviews and swap springs before I install on my car.

Assuming your alignment is going to be tuned for drifting, your set up is correct.

I have the new competition series coilovers with Swift springs, will report when my dumb car runs!

I'm wondering if I should set my TEINs like that.

its how I have my old version pbm's set. it makes more sense to move the caster back that way and get more negative camber to me. they work fine but I don't run full negative camber/caster either. set maybe 1/4 that way max as I daily my car and want a little more even tire wear.

on the old version, it is beneficial on bumpy roads to add 2 clicks stiffer from full soft to the rear. reduces my cars bouncing tremendously it seems even with front still full soft. I hear the new versions ride a lot better since they now use linear springs. and their pro version (more expensive one) has an even smoother riding shock so they say. getting better I guess.

Mine have been ordered for a couple weeks now. I was going to try and find a used set but I was like fuck it ordering new ones. I figure it's a good investment.

Got a couple 240 buddies on them and if they're anything like the s13/14 coils I'll love em.

^pretty much the same thing with different spring rates and mounts for the chassis so it just comes down to chassis flex and how different a semi trailing arm rear suspension is from the multi link shit in 240's.

@ $1k, might as well buy new although I got mine used with 0 driving miles for 850 shipped. just sat on a chassis for 3 months, guy decided to scrap the chassis (quarters were destroyed) and go back to s14.

Can I someone post pix of these coilovers slammed plz thinking bout getting some

I don't have my car slammed and my car is currently stock body but trust me, these things can drag a kit if you want. My car is kinda low and a hit my exhaust on stuff but I have the RB header so my exhaust sits a little lower then I'd like. you can always remove the bottom collars too. They go as low as any of the other super low coils out there.

They go low enough to set the fender support on the tires up front and enough to tuck in the rear. Check out my album, my white car had parts shop max coilovers.

I was wondering if anyone had trouble with the rears being to low? Mine scrub the wheel well in the back!

Um, adjust them so the rear is higher and level with the fronts? I might not understand what you are saying but pbm coilovers have adjustable ride height independent of the shock.

Well mine are supposed to be here Tuesday, and I'm adjusting them to all the way low before I put them on so I guess we'll see. And I'm on 16's with a 45 series sidewall.

I will be getting these today, im not familiar with caster/camber adjustments, In the pictures two guys previously posted it looks like the caster/camber plate it set differently from one another.

So my question is what is recommended I set mine to? I will be doing some drifting on the weekends and such, but I do not want to reset my caster/camber everytime I am done. Is there a good setting to do both drifting and DD In? How hard is it to adjust the caster/ camber?

Put mine on last night, love them already. Can't wait to actually get the car running and drive on them.

Can still go lower as well.

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KA FC? Why? :scratch:

pix go how the look on the ground ???

Because I want to.

And pix will be up as soon as the motor/transmission mounts are finished! Can't wait to see it on the ground.

has anyone gone with the pros?

I got a set of the pros a few weeks ago and installed them. Have only driven around a bit but they feel awesome.
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^ nice, what spring rates are on the pro's? also, PM me your wheel brand, sizing, offset, and tire specs asap. looks like the sizing I want for wide body, tires too stretched for me but still looks cool.

@ caeya sick as ride was going full kit now im going t2 side skirts and a lip for sure

Thanks guys. The spring rates are 10/8 just like their comp coilovers, and you can either go with their Light linear spring (LLS) or swift springs for an extra 150 I believe, which is the route I took. Wheels are Varrstoen 2.2.1, fronts are 18x9.5 -8 (20 mm spacer) and rears are 18x10.5 +7 (8mm spacer). Mind you I'm rocking foresight 30mm rear over fenders and 35mm front fenders. I also have mmr adjustable rear camber links as well as the mazdatrix center rear camber link so I adjusted the wheels to fit the way I wanted. I also had to slot the top hole on the driver side front coilover more so that I was able to get the same amount of camber as the passenger side. Haven't gone in for an alignment yet but the fronts should be in the 4-5 degree range and the rear in the 1-2 range.

didn't look close enough, thought it was stock body but now I see in the second pic. damn, varrstoens huh? probably too rich for my blood. I'm running a modded sublink only in the back to remove camber but my car rides like a truck compared to your stance. lol. I have the old pbms that still had progressive spring rates and the super stiff dampers (even on full soft). I live on bumpy roads so they get annoying a little. I avoid some roads all together now lol. got a deal on my pbms though so can't complain too much. might get the new ones someday but so much work to do to the car first.

varrstoens Are not really that expensive 650 out the door right or something like that...

I paid 850 for all four in matte black plus shipping. The price goes up from there depending if you want them powder coated, anodized or polished.

I know what you mean with the comp coilovers, I had them on my last FC and it rides a little rough . So far the pros seem much smoother

Wow then I was getting a mad hook up lol

nice to see the comparison between the old comp coils and the new pro versions. PBM claimed that the new damper design had better ride and same performance and obviously the new linear springs are going to be better then my progressive rates on my old style.

I must have confused varrstoens with some other baller brand. I'm no wheel guru lol. I want to get me some rota P-45r's in 17's or rota RKR's in 16's like +25 offsets I think would work with the P-45r's. no idea on the RKR's. I'll never be able to afford actual nismo LMGT4's or watanabe RS's, those are the legit versions the rotas copy. but ya, whatever. varrstoens look pretty cool too apparently.

I'm on stock 15's and have like 1.5" gap between tire and fender. I still scrape my RB presilencer regularly around these shitty VT roads. no constant hard park height for me I'm afraid. lol

I had p45rs on my first FC, but 17x9. You can fit the +25 but you'll have to run atleast a 5mm spacer in the front so the inside of the wheel doesn't hit the coilovers. That was when I was running tein coilovers. My buddy now has the wheels and he had the same issue with the kei office coils I sold him.

Don't the p45rs come in 17x9.5 ans four lug I want those wheels as weel lol

Here's some pics on the ground. That is at moderate preload with all the collars, at max low. I CAN go lower by removing collars and running more preload, but I don't really want any more preload than what i have. If I was trying to lay frame, I could tweak them and drop it another 3/4" to an inch, but I'd rather not until I've driven on them.

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