Here's a link to a video of how it's running. It won't idle at all anymore. Hopefully the link works.
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/...60459&comments

Ok so found a couple vac leaks and took care of those. It runs a lot better now. I can rev it up fine but if I rev it then let off and then try to rev it again it will stumble a little bit before it revs back up. I turned the screw on the bottom of the TB in pretty far and if I let it idle it will sit at about 2k then stumble down to 1.5k then shoot back up to 2k over and over again. I tried adjusting the throttle stop but it doesn't seem to help. As soon as it drops below like 1.3k it just dies.

Ok, the only idle screw you should mess with is the flat head screw on the BAC. Once the car is fully warmed up, set the TPS to 1.00v per the FSM. You can also make a 2-diode tps checker that makes setting it really easy. If it's idling too high, check for more vacuum leaks with a can of brake cleaner. Once the idle has calmed down, set it to around 800. Once you've done that, jumper the initial set coupler and set the ignition timing. You may need to clean the spark plugs as well.

I don't have a BAC.. Right now it runs pretty bad and kind of stumbles under 3k but once I get above that and hit boost it's fine, goes right to redline no problem Makes me think it might be running rich cause doesn't boost lean it out some? As far as idle it bounces a littleeee bit but not enough to make me think it's a vacume leak. Plus I looked everywhere and can't find one. It's all new vac lines. It idles right around 1,100rpm. You don't even really hear it bounce you just see it on the tack, but then all the sudden it will just drop to like 300rpm and I got to pump the gas to keep it from dieing.

"Once you've done that, jumper the initial set coupler" No idea what that is.. I'll try to look it up.

IF you dont have a BAC then no need to worry about "jumping the initial set coupler"

I'd say install a BAC.

Where can you get bac's :(

I want to put the BAC on. Just need to find the plug to put on the harness. Anyone know where I can get one? I thought it was the same as the injectors but it's not.

congrats on getting it started.

i got mine off a car in the junk yard. They also sell the clips on ebay, that's where I got the replacements for my fuel injector clips. They are essentially the same (s4 is anyway) the only difference is the bac plug had a notch that is offset instead of centered. Grind that off and bam! Working clip.

W ihile have your attention, go ahead and re wire your fuel pump now. It will save you much trouble and help protect your motor.

Thanks diabolical, it was the best feeling ever to hear it fire up and then drive it for the first time haha.

Sharingan, they never have 7's at the junkyard where I live. And the s5 bac clips army the same as the injector clips. They look the same but are a little bigger. I don't know it idles decent now at like 1100 rpm it's pretty steady, sometimes it stumbles sometimes it doesn't. The only time it dies now is when I hit the brakes sometimes. It still stumbles really bad under 2k rpm or until I hit boost. I think I'm gonna swap my primary and secondary injectors to see if it runs better at low rpm cause I'm thinking the primaries might be bad.

It's a vacume leak. Sprayed down the upper intake and it the idle steadied out. Gonna pull it off tomorrow and put some gasket maker on since the oem ones aren't doing the job...

NononononoNoNONOOOOO!!! NO gasket maker on intakes!!! If you're taking off the UIM, shove some rags in the intake holes, then CLEAN off the mating surfaces of the intake VERY thoroughly. Use a NEW intake gasket, and buy about 10 feet of 5/32" vacuum hose. Replace every vacuum hose you have, and be very very meticulous about how you clean and seal it. Any gasket material left on the intake will cause a vacuum leak. I've never had an intake leak after properly replacing the gasket.

For your BAC valve, file off the alignment tab and use a regular S4 style denso injector clip.

It's got all new vac lines and I scraped all the old gaskets off with a razor blade and put new oem gaskets on the whole intake. I put some of "the right stuff" gasket maker on the BAC and other blockoff plates and it helped a little. Maybe I'll try to see if I can borrow a buffing wheel for the LIM to UIM gasket caue that's where it seems to be leaking.

Besides the vac leak though she runs like a champ. I've prolly put 100 miles on it. My slave cylinder that I got for free took a shit though. I heard the n/a one will work. I might use it for a week or so till I get a new one. Shouldn't hurt anything right?

Haven't updated this in awhile... Been daily driving the car. Still not running good out of boost but besides that running like a champ. I've driven it to Tampa about 4 times which is a 2 hour drive one way with no problems.

I can't get the temp sensor working though, I broke the clip on the harness and got a fuel injector one and wired it up but it's not reading, unless the coolant just isn't getting hot enough to read since I don't have a thermostat.

Got a job interview tomorrow so if that goes well I can start dumping money into the 7 again. Next on the list are get an exhaust made since I'm still running open downpipe, get some dtss eliminators, and just get the car running good.

Next big thing on the list is coilovers to replace my blown suspension and cut springs.

Here's some pics of what the car is looking like now finally out of the garage and in the light of day. Took these just after her first bath in months.

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...7/be16ff50.jpg

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...7/2d08926b.jpg

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...7/24663e98.jpg

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...7/e69a33ac.jpg

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...7/f370f36c.jpg

get that temp sensor fixed. it could save your engine.

I know but I can't figure out what the problem could possibly be. The plug is firmly on and I tried wiring it both ways and neither seem to work. Only thing I can figure is without the the thermostat the coolant isn't getting hot enough to make the gauge move but I would think it would have to move a little, especially after a 2 hour drive, I mean the radiator gets pretty hot.

The temp sensor for the water temp gauge is on the driver side of the engine near the oil pressure sender. It's a single wire plug. I want to say the the wire from the harness is yellow but I could be wrong.

The water temper sensor on the water pump housing is for the ecu. If that one wasn't working, the car you run like a bad of ass holes.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1291316082

Its the red arrow on the left. Not my pic, so its kinda huge.

Well I'm an idiot. :lol: I was wondering what that went to, I thought it was just the one on the on the water pump houseing. The only yellow wire from the harness that could work got the connecter broken off so I'll have to go get a new one. Do you by any chance know what color the wire is for the oil pressure sensor because I can't figure out for the life of me what wire goes to it. I was actually thinking it was that yellow wire but I guess not...

Thanks for the help man.

Temp sensor works. The needle only climbs up a little tiny bit though. Like between the top of the 2 thick lines on the very bottom of the gauge and where the actual long part of the gauge starts....Hard to explain. Is this because I don't have a thermostat?

Now all I need is to get my oil pressure working and I'll finally have all my gauges working again haha.

Is the big thing, I think it's the other arrow in the pic, the oil pressure sensor? I figured out which wire goes to the temp sensor and which one to the oil pressure sensor but the oil pressure doesn't seem to work. It just stays the same like right around 60 and doesn't go up when I get ont he gas. Then when I shut the car off it still stays up. I thought I might have them backwards so I tried it the otherway but then the oil pressure goes all the way up to the top and stays there. What am I doing wrong?

the one on the left is a knock sensor i belive and the one on the right is oil pressure

^wrong info. The little connector on the left IS the water temp sensor for the gauge. The one on the right, yes, is for the oil pressure. If it's stuck at 60, it's probably broken. Most gauges/senders are broken anyway. Invest in a filter pedestal and install a mechanical gauge.

FYI
Knock sensor on an S5 I believe is in the rear housing. On the S4 it's on the top of the middle plate by the oil filler tube.

clean work